Category Archives: PEOPLE

Day 40, 10/24/2012 The kindness of strangers

Knowing me means you also know I don’t sit still well.  Rain isn’t the reason I am not doing much of anything right now.  I’ve been waiting for a return call with an estimate for repairing the head gasket etc on the 4Runner.  In the pre-dawn hours I rambled online through the SST (special shop tools) I would need, thought about what I could rent or borrow and pretty much avowed I wanted to take the motor apart right here in camp.  After investigating a few options within camp and awaiting “one more phone call”,  I humbled myself to ask a favor from a neighbor camper (Jason, the only other camper right now as all the “climbers” have gone home).  I needed a ride 2 miles to get my propane bottle filled.  I would not be balancing the big white “30lb” bottle on my bike, nor carrying it walking.

Jason readily gave me a ride up Rte 32 to get a propane refill while his own water heated for a before work shower.  Even Jack at the stove store was ready and started to to call around and suggest a good mechanic for us.  Then Jane and I decided to ride our bikes a bit.  Jack made us aware that a rail-trail was being developed and it started right here in Rosendale.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARails-to-Trails is one of my few regular charities.  Rail-trails represent a nice, semi-paved entry into green places that most people would never see.  Jane and I are not most people.  We like to “mountain bike”, so narrow, rooty or rocky trails are our favorite.  Railtrails can be boring, but of course without a car we had to go somewhere.

After our brief hour or so, the trail proved young and unbuffed, yet still a nice old rail trail.  We stopped at a local bike shop and asked about Single-track trails.  Warnings were heard that rifle season starts Sunday and pretty much all trails require a drive to get to.  I tend to talk a lot and explained our dilemma.  A customer overheard and began to offer suggestions.  He knew everyone around here. Although a world traveller, he had over sixty years of history here and friends in every direction.

His bike fixed, he offered to call or take us to some of his connections.  Unused to accepting help, I mostly stood agape.  My delayed replies seemed to include, uh, uh if you want or think you should. By adventures end, he drove us “just up the road” in three or more directions. It may have been a half hour of driving before we all introduced ourselves to each other.  Byron is a most gracious man, he even expressed his own cautions and misgivings referenced to the last time he did a traveller a favor (an RV sat in  his garage for a year).   We visited Rick, a longtime friend (he skied everywhere with him, shared the coldest day of his life at 26 below zero).  Rick is a master craftsman, detailing a 1932 hot rod with a flathead waiting on the floor in his shop.  The frame project looked near completion, as Byron joked about the 2 years its been “sitting there”.  Rick and his son, a world-class snowboarder and “crazy kayaker” who goes over falls are sort of hobbyist mechanics.  They work on just enough jobs to satisfy quality and bills I guess.  Byron says Rick just works til he gets mad, then goes out of the shop for a while. Anyone who has actually worked on a car would see the humor and sanity in that strategy.

Some two-minute jobs become hellish 2 hour perseverance tests: My pre-trip replacement of  the rusted-stuck, flimsy little fuel filter, tucked under the frame and cross member would be a prime example.  I couldn’t use a torch or grinder as the sparks would have enjoyed the dripping gasoline more than I could stand, wrenches were crushing it as I tried to protect the in and out-going fuel lines.  Even a hacksaw wouldn’t fit.  I kept pecking away using a broken hacksaw blade clamped into vise-grips and eventually: The mechanic had his way.  I cut through the hexagon, nut-shaped portion several times til it succumbed and unscrewed like it was supposed to.  I did have to crawl out and stretch, breathe, and breathe again, but didn’t leave the garage on that one.

Rick said he couldn’t even start on my car for about two weeks.  We’re not in a hurry, but we can’t be in port without a car for that long.

Next, we drove to Byron’s own home where he offers to let me use one of his sheds.  I’m afraid 15 miles from the camper without air tools, a torch, or my own home’s resources and contacts could be frustrating.  Who next?  He suggested a few options and Chilcott’s.  Chilcott’s has several mechanics, the shop is meticulous and Byron has known Alex Chilcott since they were kids.  He calls and talks to Alec, then thrusts the phone to me.  “How do you know the head gasket is blown?, did someone tell you?”  I give the story and symptoms…he nods by phone, agreeing and says they could do it.  “Don’t think it’ll be done in 2 days though”…because the heads have to go to a machine shop, it could take a week.

While dropping off the truck I meet Mike.  He almost tries to talk me out of “putting that much money” into the car.  I know everything is uncertain, but my research has unveiled many of these V6 Toyotas burn through their gasket, then go on to live a productive life.  Besides, the brakes, shocks, rear bearings, muffler and more are new.  I put 50 hours into preventative jobs in the three weeks before we left town.  Used cars are complex electro-mechanical devices.  Roulette is an unforgiving game and my best intuition, call-outs to Lynn in Cumberland, and other research says:  Fix what you’ve got, keep the known variables.

What a remarkable day.  We started without knowing what we’d do “all day” and were chauffeured through steps of help we barely even asked for.  People are Great.

OOPS, almost forgot.  Upon being dropped off in our driveway, our camper neighbor, Jason, invited us over for Brats on the grill.  We brought pasta salad and potatoes for a great picnic-table fireside feast.  The rainy day has turned to just cloudy and held off long enough to relax, eat and hear about non-destructive testing, dye-penetrant and a short contract in NY City.  People are Great.

P.S. This morning the professional warning call came from Chilcott’s, this was to be an expensive repair.  I was prepared for that and offered my sweeping, parts-cleaning services or anything to defray the cost…we’ll see if they have any reception.  I told them they could ADD to the bill if they didn’t like my work!

– David

Our new friend Byron was really incredible. He gave us hours of his time, even showed us his lovely home that he had built himself many years ago. David’s so right – people are great and we are lucky to have found another one here in Rosendale, NY!

It’s easy to forget the natural goodness of people when someone in their car cuts you off or when reading the horrors on the front page of the newspaper. (I date myself – I meant the newspaper online of course!) Reality shows thrive on  showing the nasty side of the human race. But, everywhere we go, we seem to find the kindness of strangers…

– Jane

Here are some photos of our railtrail ride today:

(These and all the photos on our blog can be clicked and made larger)

The day was wet and dreary and no one else was around, which added to the spookiness of this abandoned cement kiln from the 1880's.

The day was wet and dreary and no one else was around, which added to the spookiness of this abandoned cement kiln from the 1880’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A giant conveyor went deep into the quarry to bring up lime from the earthThe conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

A giant conveyor went deep into the quarry to bring up lime from the earth

 

 

 

 

I imagine folks, now long gone, working at this site in the 19th century

I imagine folks, now long gone, working at this site in the 19th century

 

 

The conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

The conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

 

 

More People!

I ease into most days with the well-wishing of others back home in my mind.  Seems every day someone is helping us get going, do a little laundry, blessing us, or just joining us for a laugh.  We do that often and sometimes with little provoking.

The Tramper and 4Runner Truck are performing pretty much flawlessly.  The poor truck does “ping” sometimes on the highway when I abuse it trying to keep with uphill traffic .  Premium gas, cautious shifts of the automatic transmission and overall patience keep that to a minimum.  Any of you who know what  pinging is (or have heard of it but don’t) may be aware that its like hitting the pistons with a blazing hot blacksmith’s hammer 3000 times per minute.  Essentially spontaneous combustion occurs to an unstable mixture of fuel and air before the piston even reaches it’s top position where it should await an explosion lit by the spark plugs you pay for that job.  That’s where power comes from if things are running right.

I brought the Toyot (missing the A on the tailgate) to a few small shops to see if anyone had time to squeeze in a look.  Both places were gracious, the first mechanic was middle aged, but wore a mohawk.  It was hard to look him in the eye much.  His shop was booked.  The next guy was familiar with 4Runners as that’s what he drives.  Steve squeezed me in this morning for an oil change, transmission fluid change, and to aim a timing light at the 3.0 V-6.  It is as good as  it is going to get; So, my patience and smaller roads will preserve the motor.  I Hope.  Oh yeah, he said GOOD LUCK on the trip, take your wife out to dinner and didn’t charge any labor!  ($33 bucks: wow, the world is full of good people)

Cusick's sign was all I had to go on until I stopped in to ask about squeezing me into their schedule

Cusick’s sign was all I had to go on until I stopped in to ask about squeezing me into their schedule

In Acadia I heard a guy in the Market and Grill mention making pie while we ate breakfast.  When I asked about a slice, the waitress said they didn’t sell pie.  So in a moment Michael (we think) came over and said we could have a slice.  He had made 4 pies for Church and social groups, with one going to his co-workers (or employees) at the grill.  He insisted Jane and I share one, warmed and A-la-Mode’.  Wow, what a baker.  I think it was better than the ones I make with subtle wisps of flavor and a delicate crust.  (the world is full of good people)

In New York we stopped at what could have been a kitchy-artifice of a country market.  A glance saw tchatchkies , knicknacks, candies and handcrafted items.  Closer scrutiny bore out the deep roots; this is a Farmer’s store.  Produce and blacksmithed items at reasonable prices.  (A sizable weathervane for ~$50)  When we met the proprietor I knew it to be the real deal.  Doug and I traded yarns while he checked out the Tramper, each with trouble finishing his story before the other wanted to speak.  By the end, I told him he could borrow the Tramper after our voyage.  Seriously.  A pair of tires or a battery would be good rent and it would be out of my driveway for a month or so.  I don’t know if it was his smile, handshake or stories that gave me the confidence in mankind.

Doug and I in the glory of the day on his parking lot

Doug and I in the glory of the day on his parking lot

Back to the people supporting, nurturing our ride.  A long-time friend who used to let me watch him restore Indian motorcycles and Willy’s Jeeps (I was about 6 years old) certainly kindled my adventure and mechanical roots.  When I researched small trucks on Craigslist part of my selection was confirmed by the previous owner Steve, who had purchased it for his son who now had to go off to college at University of Maryland.  Steve shook hands on the type of deal where trust meant he would hold it until we returned to buy it in a few days.  No deposit required.  I almost felt bad pointing out the work I’d be doing to get it through inspection and safe.  Of course the $300 price break came in handy for rear axle seals, bearings, and rear brakes.  I had to dip into savings for the rest of the parts: front brakes, 4 shocks, mud flaps, muffler, hoses, belts, fluids and “all”.

A surprise came when neighbor Billy brought over one last present, a Dietz kerosene lamp of about the same vintage as the trailer.  He had also donated several small details, some used, some stored at home; an awning and poles, a big plastic water tank.

Look carefully, the left light is a 50 year old kerosene lamp (better picture to be posted) Thanks Billy!

Look carefully, the left light is a 50 year old kerosene lamp (better picture to be posted) Thanks Billy!

When I was trying to make new Birch look like old Birch I trialed about 20 different stain combinations.  It was serendipitous  that I met Dave, a customer at Woodcraft, who showed me the perfect product.  A small bottle of Brown Maple Aliphatic Dye to measure into the shellac, ml. by ml. until the desired hue is found.  Wonderful.

We mentioned Tom and Jean who came and fed us one eve during our hurried final packing.  And, of course, Jane’s recovery from that pesky but benign biopsy. They packed us champagne and steaks.  Wow.  We feel so privileged.

Jane and I both felt compelled to get really good hiking boots.  Jane’s slip and fall while descending the Sterling Pond “bouldering-staircase” cinched it for her needs.  An old pair of Vasque boots had been overheated by a fire ring at Lykens a few years before and were failing.  My own boots were >5 years old from LL Bean and were lasted like a pair of buckets.  We searched the internet which led us to the mall and a store that didn’t stock boots in Jane’s size. The clerk there said, “check Sleepers”, a store next door.   There we met Demarre and Matt who fervently helped as if they meant it.  Matt’s family makes maple syrup so we are well stocked now!  We bought a wine bottle FULL  of Maple Syrup…dark and sure to be delicious soon.

When it came time to leave Maine we went to a gravel pit and weighed the rig.  A business called Ferraiolo’s in Farmingdale didn’t bat an eye as I drove between dump trucks, front end loaders, and gravel spreaders with my little lumbering Tramper.   The scale man was cordial, said the price would be 5 or 10 bucks.  After we finished, he asked for $5.  First I drove onto the long steel plate, total weight: 8,640 lbs.  Then the truck alone: 5,220 lbs. that leaves the Tramper at 3,420.  I guess I’ll look at the ratios, freight rates and see just how bad, or good it is to get the 12-ish mpg we’re getting.  Oh yeah, the people.  He was smiling and eating a tootsie-pop.  Just the right touch to a down-home send off and a cheap way to see how much our load weighs.

Small, five-year-old Parker made us a book of art and helped us on our Raystown, PA  test run.  His dad Steve graciously loaned us his Dodge truck.  perhaps nicest and most frequently seen though, is the cool quilted Tramper banner that hangs proudly at our door.  Donna gave this to Jane days before we left.  We travel on love of family and friends.  We miss you all daily and take note of or take pictures of things you each “just have to see”.

Rainbow artist - Parker L.

Rainbow artist – Parker L.

Yes, there is indulgence in this journey.  But, too we feel there is some amount of inspiration.  Good People Everywhere.  Plus, we demonstrate the possibility of doing that dream that you’ve always dreamt! (even if it doesn’t involve traveling in an aluminum box for a year).

DAY 34 – 10/18/2012 Mountain Biking in New Hampshire: Franklin Falls

As you may recall, a guiding principle of the Tramper Voyage is fun.  Bike, hike, paddle, ski, gawk, shop?, listen and learn.  See a few sights, walk a few walks, visit a few museums and junk stores (good places to grab or drop off a book or get kitchen tools).

Spontaneity is our technique.  Ask, “where should we go today?”  See something on the map.  Check out the best small-road diagonals.  Or, better yet, just see it on the side of the road.  Can’t tell you how many times our 8000 lb rig rolls by as I brake safely to search for a good place to turn around.  (the lobs-tah guys place, the Second Chance junk store where I found a BSA/Scoutmaster hat, many campgrounds, gas stations, bathrooms, and on and on…)

Another tool of course is the internet via our Macbook.  We have a subscription to Singletracks.com .  Jane scored an excellent find in the mountain bike trails at Franklin Falls in New Hampshire.  We easily found the parking lot and trailhead, which is not always so easy.  100 feet into the woods I agonized over whether to go back and grab another electronic gadget.  (not always guaranteed to enhance your enjoyment of your life or endeavor)  John (traveler PT) had loaned me his Garmin GPS and I rode out knowing I’ll never learn anything by leaving it in the cupboard.

Serendipity.  We met Josh and Jamie at their parked cars just finished “blowing off” the trails.

Our gracious "hosts"

Our gracious “hosts”

Their Husqvarna backpack blower had taken a toll on their backs, but left the trails buffed-clean for our enjoyment.

Their insider’s hint on riding their trails led us in through Rogue, Whaleback, Mighty Chicken, Bee Trail, Old Ledge, Salmon Brook (harrowing-tight-rocky-rooty-switchbacks), then back up Pine Snake.  The trails are managed and maintained by NEMBA (local clubs do a LOT of work for access and environmental cooperation in the Mountain Bike world).

My "lovely wife and I share a lovely ride" (me riding one-handed with camera)

My “lovely wife and I share a lovely ride” (me riding one-handed with camera)

The Old Bench

The Old Bench

These trails were sinuous, weaving through pines, sometimes bench cut, using the terrain artfully, undulating up and down curves and plummeting

If you feel up to it...

If you feel up to it…

down a corkscrew (the Mighty Chicken is crafted as well or better than Tap-and-Die at the Kingdom trails, VT where they charge money for trail access). We had a great ride.  Rode slower, looked around more than usual and tracked the trails by GPS trying to learn about the “little electronic device”.  We bore our tired legs to the next place to dock the Tramper,  Manah-Manah! (think Sesame street)

We parked up in Monadnock State Park, NH but couldn’t keep from calling it Manah-Manah!  Even first thing in the morning before coffee:  Manah-Manah!

-David

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DAY 33 – 10/17/2012 Beautiful New Hampshire

Over 1 month on the road! Woo Hoo! And we still like each other! Double Woo Hoo!

We left finally left Maine and headed to the White Mountains of New Hampshire for some hiking. We had a special treat in Maine. My brother’s new wife, Laurie, was visiting from her soon-to-be-former home in Michigan.

Laurie

Laurie

(Yes, they are happily married and live in separate states for now. Don’t ask!)

Laurie is wonderful and we had fun together. Bob is a very lucky man!

We drove into New Hampshire looking for some mountain hiking. We found it in a peak called Blue Mountain. It’s

Had to post this pic of my brother. He, for once, doesn't have that "ax murderer" face on!

Had to post this pic of my brother. He, for once, doesn’t have that “ax murderer” face on!

in the Mt Chocorua Scenic Area on the southern edge of White Mountain National Forest.

We started the hike rather late in the day but the sun was still fairly high in the sky.

The woods were beautiful and, as usual for New England, there were many water features. Lovely little babbling brooks tumbling down the mountain.

We climbed up…OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And up…OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And up…OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

And up some more.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Until at last we hit the summit!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Phew! That was work!

A little irony at the peak!

A little irony at the peak!

The "view" from the top

The “view” from the top

I say ‘work’ but really, it’s just fun! Breathing the clean air, hiking through the lovely autumn woods with the person you love. What’s ‘work’ about that?

Every day, we appreciate this trip. It’s an indulgence, sure, but it’s also an amazing way to live life for a while. We feel more like humans on a beautiful planet than workers making a nest egg and not a whole lot else.

We worked hard at making it happen and took an enormous chance, doing this trip. But it’s so worth it! Maybe some of our readers will be inspired to find a way to make it happen for them??

Our day ended as it always does – returning home to the Tramper. Night was falling fast as we came off the mountain and a waxing crescent moon shone over our little aluminum home…

– Jane

Day 23 10/7/2012 Fundy National Park, Cousins, Waterfalls, and another Brick for Jane and David

I wanted to meet my father’s cousin from Fredericton, NB.  My last visit from him was when I was about 12 years old.  He came to visit my aunt Peg, his grandfather and my family.  Then, he signified all the cool things about being grown up.  He laughed, talked about Ski-doos, camping, and fishing.  He and his brother even had candy branded with wrappers I’d never seen.  He was very nice and his ways lured my interest North even way back then.

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

By last-minute phone I agreed to have Gordon and Jackie come to meet us for breakfast in the grandeur of Canada’s Fundy National Park.  Each of us alone could have been loquacious but all squeezed into the Tramper (4 at the dinette, Gordon, Jackie, J-P, Anne, then Jane and I on the mini camping bench at the head) made for a laughing, warm time with real Pennsylvania ?, maple syrup and a pace that none of really thought about.  After such a relaxed breakfast, both sets of guests were left with time for only a “little nature hike”.  Dickson Falls provided a stupendously beautiful spot.  Not a huge falls, but hugely beautiful.  My biggest treat was stepping back, taking pictures and picturing people gaining the intended benefit of a park.  All were ambling gently around, each pointing at their own sense of what to notice, chatting and being people with a shared, communal smile.  Anyone who designs or preserves parks would be happy celebrating the scene.

Perhaps my most reassuring moments were Gordon talking about his life style.  He takes no medications, lives in that unplanned, but willing way of allowing good moments into your day.  I won’t say his age, but at my 51, if I get to stay active and enjoy like he, I will celebrate a life of more than I expect or deserve.  Gordon’s inspiration to my youth continues today as he Lives every day seemingly without concern nor plans for what he should be doing.  He golfs regularly,  almost daily.  Exercises on a “Healthrider” every day (maybe only 5 minutes in good weather, but more through the deep Canada Winter).

100_6937After our brief hike our visitors had to get going their ways.  Jane and I said some sad goodbyes, Thanksgiving here is tomorrow, so it seems they all have commitments.  We drove off on the small bumpy highway 114 to let our decisions make themselves for the day.  I lazily thought, its cold, let’s leave the bikes in the truck (it takes about 5 minutes to get them out and reassemble them) and do a hike.  We did notice a trail on the map listed as “mountain biking” though and as we parked at Bennett Brook, decided to ride.  Overall the trail was 5.3 kilometers in to arrive at the confluence of Bennett Brook and the Pointe Wolfe River.  It started as a “lawn”, a mowed trail wide enough for a 4 wheeler, transistioned into some nice root/rocky mt. biking, then a fine blasting tree-line old road down to a point where no bikes were allowed.  It made sense as we hiked (hiding our bikes up in the woods above the trail) down some very tight and twisty switchbacks.  We descended steeply through mossy, ferny, nice places to find the ford below.

Another peek of Dickson Falls

Another peek of Dickson Falls

The ridges and hike probably dropped ~1000 feet into the valley.  A nice middle to our Brick of Bike, Hike, Bike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blasting, tree lined downhill

Blasting, tree lined downhill

The only problem was hiking difficult trails with the cleated, slippery bike shoes.  Caution was the theme and no injuries or falls occurred .  The green beauty gave us rewards for our crawl-pace, near tip-toe hike in bike shoes that anyone who has ever walked in such could identify with.

– David

 

 

 

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

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Bennett Brook