Category Archives: Skiing

DAY 182 – 03/12/2013 – Two Last Ski Days in Colorado

“I noticed the carny nature of your trip”, said the gruff-looking security guard as he allowed us to camp in the ski area parking lot overnight.

I won’t name him nor will I name the ski area where he works. We don’t want him to get in any trouble for his kindness which I’ll describe below.

I wrote down this quote as soon as he said it. It was too good not to note. At one time in his life, he was a ‘carny’ – a carnival worker and a vagabond himself.

After we left Sequoia National Park, we turned Eastward for home. Marfa, the 4Runner, faced one more great challenge: getting back over the Rocky Mountains! But, David wanted to ski a bit more. We were right there, where all the big Colorado resorts were. And, we had a good line on a discount for some of them.

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Up and up and up, over one of the passes through the Rockies

So, we picked one and it was a beauty! Fresh snow all over. Deep and puffy and so much fun! Certainly the deepest powder we skied all winter.

But, the one barrier to enjoying all this snow was the Tramper itself. We were in Summit County, a very chi-chi area of Colorado. We were actually rejected by the only campground open. Because the Tramper was too small!! Tiger Run has a HOA (home owner’s association) and I guess the trailer owners have an attitude because they live in an expensive resort town. Phhfftt! It’s still a trailer park, for heaven’s sake!

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Soon we will say goodbye to the beautiful West!

We checked into the La Quinta that night. Seemed simpler than driving around looking for a place to park. What a nice hotel! (We have only used a hotel one other time on The Tramper Voyage. In Kayenta, on the Navajo Rez. Because the Navajo Nation has their own laws which we do not know.)

Still, we couldn’t leave skiing behind, yet. So, we decided to do what we’ve done successfully before. Park overnight on the ski area parking lot. Did we ask anyone if we could do this? Nope. Sometimes, it’s better to ask forgiveness than for permission.

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As snow kept piling up around us, we settled in and made dinner. Then, an authoritative knock on the door! David opened up to reveal the ski area security guard. “There’s no overnight parking here. Didn’t you see the sign?”

Well, no, we didn’t. David got out and began talking with this gentleman, explaining why we parked here. David is one of the most personable people I know. He didn’t try to convince the guard to let us stay. He simply began sharing some of the Tramper Voyage with him. Soon, there was a smile on the guard’s face. He turned out to be a kindred spirit; one who had wandered with a carnival! He said that which is quoted at the beginning of the post. He could see then that we were not some 20-somethings who would get drunk and do something stupid. (Apologies to my 20-something friends who would never do this!)

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Dawn. In our ‘secret’ location.

The guard showed us to another parking lot. A bit higher up. A bit more secluded. Nicer. Wow! I’m so lucky to be traveling with David. He connected so nicely with the guard. OK, maybe part of it was my sad face!

– Jane

PS –  In her ever accommodating and sometimes apologetic way, Jane insisted I “take a few runs on my own”.  I don’t always agree to those suggestions, skiing or biking entirely with her is a joy and only slightly slower or less intense than I’d do alone.  But today, up I went above the treeline and into a bowl.  A bowl is a huge open area of snow, usually “bowl-shaped” and exposed.  This one had filled with snow!  Lots of snow!  I like the exposed nature of these places as there are always surprises. High mountain winds can scour one place to an icy plank while, with a little thought, you can find where all that snow was deposited.  Several turns of each of my runs found that familiar ice.  I kinda like ice, having grown up skiing Pennsylvania boilerplate.  But then I found it, each run was also buoyed by the knee-deep glee of a powder day.  Bounding up and down til I was near spent, I laughed my way back to our meeting place before leaving the western slopes!

– David

DAY 160 2/17/2013 Durango Colorado

Serendipity landed us in the welcome parking direction arms of Geno from Maine as he guided us into Durango’s Lower Columbine lot.  “Just pa-ahk near the back and it’ll be fine”.  We visited and I particularly enjoyed the Main-ah pronunciation of “Mon-aww-rch” as we told him our little story.  The usual glint formed in his eyes as we went up toward that nice dinner at the resort and a good nights cozy sleep.

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Durango proved to be a very nice ski area, I’m glad they cling a bit to their old name, Purgatory.  Dante’s, Limbo, Hades, and Pitchfork among others make for a fun theme of trail names.  The most notable terrain feature though are the shelves.

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves above the Village

Every trail seems to roll along, flowing from gentle to sudden steep pitches.  Dropping out from under you, over and over.  Rolly-polly, undulating ground leading lower and lower.  Such fun to let the skis lead me down, pressing my legs sideways to compress a pre-jump and stay on the ground.  Maybe you had to be there, maybe you had to see it,

The next day we had the distinct joy of lunch in town with Christy and Steve, friends of my sister Meg.  We laughed and bubbled through dozens of stories.  Included, of course, was their own early trip into Durango that led to moving here and leaving the family/company arms of the also incredible Merritt company/family!  They have skied, worked, sailed the Caribbean living on a sailboat for a year and and seem to have that same sense for life that leads to daily joy also. Kindred.  We really hope to visit with them again.  I may have to buy Meg a plane ticket out here to press her to take her own visit with them and to see Colorado.

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Our own lack of planning almost made us miss out on that lunch.  After skiing, night fell quickly and our “serendipitous selves” hadn’t found a “campsite”.  We sometimes hide, sometimes park in plain sight.  That eve I thought a parking spot under a streetlight on Fort Lewis College looked un-noticeable.  Ha!  At 9:30 a campus security officer knocked on our door (First time on the whole trip!) and gave us an “out”.  “You’re not planning on sleeping here are you?”  There is a city ordinance against “camping” anywhere inside city limits.  Thank goodness for Walmart! We found a store 3 miles away and didn’t have to drive far so tired. (This is the second city that seems bent upon keeping campers and Trampers from sleeping peacefully, Saint Augustine, FL was first).

-David

DAY 152 – 02/09/2013 – POW!

Every day here at Monarch Mountain in Colorado is actually pretty much the same. We wake up, putter around the Tramper for awhile, then go ski. After hours of fun in the snow, we come home, eat good food and go to sleep. That’s about it! Eat, ski, eat, sleep, repeat. How lucky can you get?! This life is idyllic. If I could transport myself through space and time to Maryland, in June, for just a few days a month to enjoy some gentle weather, life would be darn near perfect!!

My last post was a little whine-y. How could anyone on a 6 month vacation have much of anything to complain about? So here, in words and pictures, is another day in paradise:

When we left for the mountain this morning, it was snowing! Everybody at a ski resort is so happy when it’s snowing! The lifties smile even more than usual, their badge readers pinging merrily as the skiers and boarders line up for some glee.

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POW! for powder snow!

“POW!” for powder snow! At the top of the Panorama lift

The skiers and boarders are very happy.

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone's happy it's snowing

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone’s happy it’s snowing

David and I sure are happy!

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Yep, falling snow makes everyone here happy. Even the people who live and work in the town, Salida, are happy because their livelihood depends on it, winter and summer. (The Arkansas River which runs through this valley it bigger, deeper and faster in the summer for the kayak and rafting enthusiasts, when there’s lots of snow the winter before. Better river = more tourist dollars.)

Now, David and I obviously enjoy fresh snow. Skiing in powder is different from skiing on packed powder, which is how they describe snow that’s been around for a while. We love the fast, hard snow that makes you use the ski to power thrilling, fast runs. Big, arcing turns on hard snow feels like flying! It seems like snowboarders, except for the really good ones who can carve a turn, need fresh powder snow more than the average skier. So, today, the boarders were in their element, too.

We saw a friend David made on the mountain.

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

The high-tension power lines that climb up and over Monarch Pass were singing today! If you stop under them, you can hear the snow and wind making them hum quite audibly. I googled it and it seems the snow and wind can cause excess oscillations and “moments” as the power is transferred along the line. Interesting phenomenon, and it sounds pretty cool, but we moved on!

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Unusual for us, we went out this evening with some Colorado friends! We’re old and we are tired at the end of the ski day, so we usually go back to the Tramper and entertain ourselves until bedtime. But, Marci and Gabe, our friends from Monroe, LA, and Jeff, our friend from Colorado via Texas, were going out to see a band.

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. Don't know who belongs to that head in the background

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. (Don’t know who belongs to that head in the background)

Live music is something we love, so off we drove into the dark snowy night to a Salida bar called River’s Edge.  “Ethyl & the Regulars” were playing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe heard it was to be Swing music. Now, ‘swing music’ to an Easterner is a band with trumpets and trombones and timid guitars.  Not so the Western variety!

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No ‘swing’ band in Baltimore has this pedal steel guitar in it! The didn’t swing, they swang!!

Dancing, too!

Dancing, too!

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Singing cowboy

We had a blast! But, even over the music, we could hear the mountain calling. We would ski again tomorrow.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

So, we left Salida to return to the Tramper. But not before taking in the giant light above the river on Tenderfoot mountain.  It might not look like much in the photo, but imagine the dark mountain against the black sky, with a giant letter spelled out in lights. “S” for Salida.

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“Big Red Heart” for Heart of the Rockies.

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Apparently, it’s a western thing…

– Jane

P.S. – We saw a grey fox in the campsite the other night. He stopped by long enough for David to call me to bring a flashlight. What a beauty he was! Of course, he didn’t stay around long enough for a picture, but I found a photo online that looks just like him:

Fox Wild Ed

He is much bigger than our red foxes at home in Maryland and his tail and fur were very puffy in the cold. I really wanted to give him some ham, but, of course, that would have been a big no-no! I thanked him for stopping by.

DAY 138 – 01/30/2013 – It Fell From the Sky!

Ponder your Winter.  Grey skies, wet sidewalks, dirty cars and cold fingers.  Maybe even fumbled car keys in the frigid dark, frozen locks and dead batteries.  Imagine the only way moisture came down from above was in that classic Northeast style.  Yup, cloudy grey, damp, and near 100% humidity at 31 degrees, then rain.  Its freezes on bushes, branches and grass.  Pretty sight in small doses, but add the extremes like in Maine and you’ve got downed trees and powerlines across your commute!  Yes, if all Winter precipitation were rain and freezing rain, the world would be a different place.

But that’s not the only way it falls.  It falls as snow!  The eskimos have “hundreds” of names for it, (although this is disputed by Wiki).  And in Colorado, nearly everyone follows the weather.  Commerce depends on snow.  Summer cities 200 miles away depend on the gradual delivery from the snowpack.  So this week as the snow came again after more than a week without, people were abuzz.  Interstate Route 70 West was filling up.   Smartphones everywhere ticked the totals at the resorts.  People planned their drop ins.  Snowfall ranged from 2-4″ at Cooper, 7-8″ at Beaver Creek, to 29″ down at Silverton.

GREEN Trees and Thin snow: had to watch out for early season rocks. (Jan 24)

GREEN Trees and Thin snow: even had to watch out for early season rocks. (Jan 24)

Look at it Now!  (Feb 1)

Look at it Now! (Feb 1)

We were fortunate enough to have a standing invitation Wednesday to join a wonderful friend at Beaver Creek to stay in her condo during her vacation.  Her brother, some extended family and friend have annual trips to ski there.  We, of course typically take vacations like theirs too.  But this time we were Trampers, just visiting from the middle of our voyage.

A perspective I hadn’t recognized follows us now.  On all my previous ski trips, I lobby for long trips of more than 7 days, wake up for first tracks and close the lifts.  On the voyage, I’ve set this mode aside.  We wake without alarms, ski a little or a lot.

View from Monarch Ridge, top of Panorama lift.

View from Monarch Ridge, top of Panorama lift.

Winter is HERE!

Winter is HERE!

Monarch operates in San Isabel National Forest

Monarch operates in San Isabel National Forest

We arrived in Beaver Creek, settled into the beautiful condo and waited for Megan.  Plans had already been laid out for all of us, we were riding the 8:00 shuttle to catch the lifts as they opened.  The overall village arrangement includes “a million beds” and free shuttle services to avoid parking hassles and fees.  This meant leaving the condo in ski boots with sandwiches in pockets.  Lately we’ve been at such small places that we park 50-100 feet from the door on the bottom floor of the lodge and carry our boots in knapsack bags into the sack-lunch area to dress.  (The next day, Thursday, inside of the Ski Cooper cafeteria there were 11 other people total at 10:30 AM)

Where do we go first?

Where do we go first?

At Beaver Creek, clearly a fabulous and delightfully diverse mountain, the Trampers suffered culture shock.  We were amazed traversing the connectors of that big mountain.  I was humbled as I stood on the ledge of the Screech Owl Jump along the Birds of Prey men’s Downhill course.  Those Olympians are SO, SO amazingly out of my league.  We felt as we were skiing in a city, a big bustling city.  We had fun, but felt our budget could be spared any more days of full-price/big mountain lift tickets.  Maybe we can spend that hundred on dogsled rides?  We chose to ski only one day there, then head back to our beloved Monarch where our season pass continues.

Most fortunately we loved our visit and hosts.  Megan’s family was in the Vacation Mode.  You know the one.  Each person injects his or her expectations and the clock cannot and will not stop anything from fitting in.  Apres ski, hot tub, happy hour, dinners and best of all; wine and cheese in their room.  We went by, and thoroughly enjoyed the evening of chat, tasty box wine, yummy cheeses and snacks.  The chat is MY favorite.  Each of us seemed prompted to share a tale or story of some notoriety, many from or fed by skiing and the lifelong love thereof.  Surrounding the fires of memory we shared the oral tradition in all its glory.  All of us laughed therapeutically and hard.

My only regret was that all our searches during the ski day for the leeward relief from wind, the best snow or the best trails to share detoured us from sharing runs with anyone but our more direct host, Megan.  Even then, our search blurred some of the blissful runs.

All-in-all, I hadn’t realized how unlike a vacation the Tramper Voyage is.  We’ve set an alarm only 2 or 3 times in as many months.  Ski for an hour or all day with our cheap picnic squeezed in the sack-lunch area.  Skip a day, have a soak, or take a hike instead.  And scarcely squeeze anything extra into the days.  Even shopping or going 15 miles into town is spontaneous and barely weekly.  We sure are enjoying this and hope the picture stays with us to color our future lives, and vacations.

Jumping for Joy!

Jumping for Joy!

– David

DAY 135 1/27/2013 The Snow Returns; Lets Demo an Albritton Powder Ski

An inviting booth where any questions were happily fielded.

An inviting booth where any questions were happily fielded.

This is not a formal ski test, I am not a tester and skied only three Joyous runs.  If this were an actual test, you would have been exposed to similar products from differing manufacturers, blind testing and much more time on the boards.  My experience does, however give a bit of feedback and count for a little something.  The skis are FUN!  They succeeded in providing a big smile during some unpaid fun.  Free demo:Free smile!

My little Blizzards are SO "old school" by comparison.  (And exactly the opposite of a powder ski)

My little Blizzards are SO “old school” by comparison. (And exactly the opposite of a powder ski)

My past several years, and the past 15 days have been spent on traditional construction, cambered Slalom Race Skis.  My skis have avery narrow underfoot width and CARVE turns at a rated 13 meter radius.  They make small turns with subtle bodily input.

These boards I tried today are wide, full-length powder skis, medium in flex.  The closest ski I own is a Nordica Hotrod Hellcat, also traditional camber (no rocker), but of similar width and length.  The Albritton is much more comfy in powder than either of my skis.  It has a small amount of “rocker” which initiates a turn and helps provide the float.

They are not the floppy banana-looking powder boards seen out and about nowadays. They seem a bit more traditional without being old-school.  This probably serves to make them a bit more versatile also.  My first few turns required me to move my body parts further to go from edge to edge than my own skis.  I had to be patient carving a turn as it felt like a huge radius (by comparison to my own skis I had just stepped out of).

On hard snow I felt like I was on a Super-G ski initially…but this came in handy later.  Yup, the Albrittons are buttery and supple enough to float through the Pow-pow I found at the edges and in some little tree shots.  But, if I let ’em out a little, went fall-line for a bit, BOY were they stable.   Stand centered and they happily blasted through the cut up stuff.  Fun ski.  Too bad I am on the Trampervoyage and can’t add to the quiver right now by buying a pair.

Besides, I LOVE hard snow.  Even ice is no stranger.  I guess its a bit of sour grapes since the East “rarely” gets true powder, but I do actually like feeling of a ski taking my legs to the limits of compression and rebound while high on edge and pressured deeply.  But wow, powder sure is a blast too, and with the right sticks it is Lots easier. www.albrittonskis.com

Bye-bye!

Bye-bye!

-David

A regular Monarch smile day

A regular Monarch smile day