Monthly Archives: October 2012

Day 21 10/5/2012

Written Day 21,

On the road again.  we are “forced” to take a big highway, Canadian 1, across from Maine to Sackville, New Brunswick.  There seem to be no small secondary roads connecting.  Old route 1 is being replaced, apparently the highway is to be ready early and below budget.  Huh, what about THAT?!  Doesn’t seem like that would happen at home.  The few old parts of 1 we drive make US wish the new road weren’t going in. Where it is old, it is small and quaint;just what we like.   Where it has been completed, it is a monument to a smooth, wide consistent road capable of Winter maintenance in a place like this and allowing an easy 100kph for anything but our little V-6 4Runner with the big Tramper in tow.   Ah, the flashers on the uphills as it drops to 40 mph.

We thought today was a long driving day and likely to carry us to our friends, then we recall they have a reunion of their own.  J-P is finishing out some projects in Texas through January, while Anne has assumed a teaching job in New Brunswick.  Today, Jean-Philippe arrives in Canada.  We should at least wait til tomorrow.

Black Harbor became our accidental tourist stop.  The highway offered a blue sign with a “?”, the international symbol for tourist information.  After 6-8 miles down a side road we felt misled, then, there at the bottom of a near dead end road on a peninsula, was another “?” sign.  The Information center door was, “of course” locked and as we walked away a gracious employee from the store next door, leaving for the day, came back from his car to offer us a hand.  He asked if we wanted some help.  Then we went into the same building through the next door, into a yarn and knitting store.  There too was another gracious employee, offering anything they had.  Snacks, yarn, BEAUTIFUL knit goods, truly useful and real woolen wares.  It was VERY HARD not to buy some neat things, some warm things, something for Olivia, something for Jane…but we can only travel til the money runs out.  We need to try to be frugal…food, gas, shelter costs won’t relent much.

We bumbled upon the New River Campground and Park on the Bay of Fundy as I thought…does this part of the bay have that big tide change.  Checking in at the campground I saw the high and low tide times posted.  ….maybe?  Next, after paying up for the night I asked how much the tide changed here?  In feet, or meters?  8 meters.  8 meters!  Wow, this is really on That bay.  We checked in, parked at a nice site and walked over to the beach area.  Off to the left of the point was a rocky area with a steep drop more that 28 feet.  Perhaps, just as odd was the 200 yard stretch of sandy beach that also represented the depth change.  We couldn’t help but look back at where we would run if the tide rushed in.  Jane dipped her feet into the bay, small waves broke as evening darkened and we decided to go cook something.  We fried some “salted cod” we had bought.  willing to try anything we sat and ate.  Soon I realized the salty, salty, salty meal would be an emetic and we both decided to eat no more.  I guess we’ll have to google how people prepare this stuff.  Sure hated to waste it.

As always, we met a nice couple here in camp.  Two nice couples really.  first is Dennis, from New Brunswick and a welder of the old school.  All types, any job, hard work complete with mini-stroke warnings of our too-short lives.  Dennis and I rambled about the solar power and many small Tramper details swapping times with a 1930-? Pontiac frame and a Land Cruiser project.  His dad, like him, was skilled at whatever had to be done.  We are all learning every day (I hope).  The next couple, from State College, PA, was trying to share a nice quiet dinner in the “kitchen area” of the campground when we arrived to wash our dishes.  She noticed our oddly similar cookware as she commented on our Big All-Clad sauté’ pan that I insisted on bringing.  We love food, we like to cook, how could we cook big meals or feasts without a big pan? (Sorry tonights meal was not picture worthy.  Anyone know what to do with salted cod?)  We are doubting that even the local skunks are going to want what we made (even after washing and rinsing before frying).

How can I convey THIS…? ahh…ahhhh: The smell here

If I could project or download THIS place you’d share the bliss.  Day after day I am caressed by the floaty-light smell of Balsam Pine.  Or is it Hemlock, or maybe Tamarind.

I don’t know, but PineSol or one of those “Little trees” car deodorizers can’t touch it.   Amazing to me is that is wafts over me repeatedly; it’s new every time, a hundred or thousand times a day.  With sound, your senses will accommodate, set a new threshold and “not hear” baseline sounds.  Like acclimating to traffic or background noise.  At home even smelly smells get less bad, like paint or something.  you get used to it and don’t notice anymore.

Thank Goodness these smells keep overwhelming me.  There is no picture I can share.  No scratch and sniff nor smell-o-rama from John Waters to download.  I can only oogle,  awh,  and gush about how great it is.  WOW.  Even all capital letters cant express.  Seems every turn or crest of a hill brings a warm or even a cool breeze to celebrate.  Just when I forget how nice it smells….boom, there it is again.

WOW, It smells SO GOOD !!!

– David

DAY 20 – 10/4/2012 somewhere in the Maine Woods, in which we see a moose!

Impossibly tall, with an appearance at once majestic and goofy, we rounded a corner and saw a Moose! On bikes on the logging road, we were about 40 yards away. We knew he was a boy – he had a beautiful rack of antlers. Agog, we could barely get the camera out for a few photos as he stalked away into the trees. We’ve never been in close proximity to a moose before – just distant glimpses in Wyoming.

We had set up camp on a wooded rise at the confluence of Machias River and the West Branch of the Machias. This night, we were in an actual campsite. It was about 5 miles into the woods on the dirt logging road. But the campsite was completely deserted at this time of year except for us and the birds and chipmunks. After our moose bike ride, we put the kayak in the Machias at our camp.

I used to do sprint-distance triathlons. Doing two out of the three sports in a training session was called a ‘brick’. So, on this day in the beautiful wilds of Maine, our brick was a bike ride and paddle.

Gratitude was the overriding emotion of the day for me. I am grateful that, after the cancer ordeal, here I am, in this beautiful place far from civilization. I’m also so grateful for my wonderful husband, who really made this possible. We’re just ordinary middle-class people. Yet we were able to stop working for awhile and go off into the woods. Absolutely priceless!

We don’t shoot the rapids. We only paddle up to take the picture of the rapids!

– Jane

Barriers: The Truck Again

Funny.  I always seem to roll around on the ground in parking lots at the right time.  I wasn’t looking for anything in particular but noticed that the bumper had pinched a wire against the hitch.  Not enough to cut it apart…but maybe it caused a short?  Yup, checking the lights (truck and Tramper), showed NO BRAKE LIGHTS.   Can’t drive like that (we were at CVS getting new passport pics)…so, check and swap the fuse.  (My spares are back at Bob’s in the camper, so I took out the running light 15 amp and put it into the Brake spot.)  CLoser inspection showed I had a Left turn signal and  brake light, but nothing on the Right.

Got home, added the Running light fuse.  Still no R signal.  I have quite a selection of tools and was graced by the invitation to use Dale’s garage space.  The cheap little diagnostic light with a wire and alligator clip at one end and a pointy probe at the other includes a lightbulb in between.  It showed me I had bright light before the little black Toyota trailer thingy, but dim after…  Bought a new one at the RV Store for $12.99 and fiddled/taped for awhile.  WOOHOO, all lights work.  I will not stand for or drive a trailer whose lights don’t work; all of ’em!

Oh yeah, also had Andrew’s help the day before putting the new springs, Cargo Springs, on the 4Runner.  I like it here.  People live and solve the problems of life: food, shelter, transportation.  I think there is a clear knowledge of Season.  It is Fall, there are things to do before Winter.  The springs took us under 2 hours to put in and the camaraderie of working with a peer is great.  I enjoyed it enough to ask for work today.  We again shared the calm meditative state only “working” can provide.  I helped Andrew stack cordwood for drying.

Yes, with Cargo Springs the truck is back at factory height.  I think it had sagged over its 17 years.  The back is about 1 1/2 inches higher now; Can’t wait to plop the trailer on it in the morning and see how far down it goes!

– David

“The Movie of the Road”

…here’s a little slideshow

On the Interstate, My mind and eyes are never relaxed.  On these backroads, I am breathing, thinking, musing about life and generations of lives.  I meet PEOPLE in the stores.

– David