Monthly Archives: October 2012

Day 26, 10/10/2012 Baxter State Park, Maine

DAY 26 – 10/10/2012 Baxter State park, ME (Trout Run Camping Area)

My first foray out in the dawn was frosty and special.  Each and every blade of grass, leaf, blossom, pine needle, and every acre of Fall-tinged wildflowers were delicately iced with sparkling frost in the severe blue morning light.  Even the now-trusty 4Runner was frosted.  I wandered around quietly taking macro pictures to share until I had to retreat and make our first coffee.

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

We did move at our relaxed morning pace, had the truck unhitched and driving to a trailhead to start just before 10.

We selected a tough climb, circuit hike with a suggested turn-back spot to help us decide how much to bite off.  Nearly the entire climb was talus, loose boulders, small cliffs and crags requiring at least three limbs climbing.

Jane "making" one of the harder bits

Jane “making” one of the harder bits

The valley was at 1000′ above sea level, while the top of what we ended up scaling was at 3254.  The climb was perhaps the steepest at this end of the park and provided ample bouldering, scampering and ultimately whimpering until the summit of the main ridge gave us a view of the whole park South and the weather on its way in.  “40 percent chance of showers” never stops us from starting what we hope to do each day.  (Can’t tell you how many great rides, hikes, and overall trips we’ve had despite nay-saying weather forecasts.)

100_7074We chose to turn back for the bottom where we started (had hiked 4 point-some miles of the 10.4 we had intended), because the next 2 miles forward were the most exposed, above tree line portion where there has been snow and ice already this week.  And so, settled for a SAFE and successful 8 mile, out-and-back instead of a questionable circuit into weather and late afternoon.  We have youthful desires and energy, but no bull-headed “egos” to push us beyond the bounds of safety.  We knew going downhill on WET or snowy rocks, particularly in the dark would not be smart.  Arriving back at the car at 3:30 spent plenty of our energy as our rubber legs begged for rest and dinner.

 

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"Here comes the weather..."

“Here comes the weather…”

What an oasis is the Tramper.  Radiant heat is immediate, we were never cold as OJ, peanut butter and jelly gave the energy to make our actual dinner.

– David

DAY 25 – 10/9/2012 Fredericton, N.B. to Baxter State Park, ME

We were reluctant to leave David’s cousin Gordon and his girlfriend, Jackie, in Fredericton, New Brunswick, but also, we were eager to continue the Tramper Voyage.

Gordon is as gracious as he can be. We felt very welcome in his home.

Gordon and Jackie's lovely garden

Gordon and Jackie’s lovely garden

He’s very fit and active into his seventies so we really enjoyed hiking with him. David hadn’t seen Gordon for many years and we’d never met Jackie but we were warm friends right away. I love it when that happens!!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust before crossing the border, we saw a sign for the World’s Largest Axe in Nackawic, N.B. Naturally, we had to go see it! My daughter always finds fun, funky things while on the road. The World’s Largest Chest of Drawers, Foam-henge, etc. Visiting the Axe was a must.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Funny story about the border crossing. Not as funny as the Bay of Fundy Aunt Margaret story but sort of odd. We forgot to pack our passports when we left Baltimore. You might think this was an epic fail, but I was only one day post-biopsy when we left. The anesthesia had barely worn off. Also, David had a whirlwind 2 weeks getting the 4Runner ready after the neighbor’s Land Cruiser proved to have too many problems to be a good Tramper puller. Every day in port was a wasted day of the Tramper Voyage!

So, our leave-taking from Baltimore was, you might say, a bit rushed. Months of planning, one day of shoving everything in.

We had no passports. We had forgotten to pack the passports! No problem. Yet. Olivia mailed them to Augusta, Maine to my brother. Only, they had expired in March. Also, we were unaware that, in 2009, the border-crossing rules had changed. You needed a passport to get back into the U.S.

Even though a USPS official in Augusta told us that, with his official stamped and signed photocopies of our passports we would be able to get back in, we held our breath a bit when we passed through US Customs. You can’t hold your breath too much, however, because you don’t want to raise any red flags with the Border Patrol.

imagesWe tried to look and sound normal and I guess we succeeded because the very nice officer waved us back in to the U.S.! Phew!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

As the sun was setting, we drove into the magnificent Baxter State Park. It is 200,000 acres of unspoiled land in North Central Maine.

100_7102Most of the land surrounding Baxter is pretty empty as well. Baxter, unlike other  state parks, does not have camper hookups, electricity or running water.

100_7053The campsites are few and primitive . Only a couple of gravel of roads run through the park. It is entered by only 2 gates, at the Northeast border and at the Southern border.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

We parked the Tramper in a large meadow as darkness fell. We turned out the lights and the stars were extravagant and amazing! The woods were completely quiet and dark. I stepped outside again in the middle of the night and there were the big, sparkling stars again, even brighter than before.

By this time it was quite cold but I could not go back inside until I drank in more of the quiet beauty of the deep Baxter night.

-Jane

Day 23 10/7/2012 Fundy National Park, Cousins, Waterfalls, and another Brick for Jane and David

I wanted to meet my father’s cousin from Fredericton, NB.  My last visit from him was when I was about 12 years old.  He came to visit my aunt Peg, his grandfather and my family.  Then, he signified all the cool things about being grown up.  He laughed, talked about Ski-doos, camping, and fishing.  He and his brother even had candy branded with wrappers I’d never seen.  He was very nice and his ways lured my interest North even way back then.

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

By last-minute phone I agreed to have Gordon and Jackie come to meet us for breakfast in the grandeur of Canada’s Fundy National Park.  Each of us alone could have been loquacious but all squeezed into the Tramper (4 at the dinette, Gordon, Jackie, J-P, Anne, then Jane and I on the mini camping bench at the head) made for a laughing, warm time with real Pennsylvania ?, maple syrup and a pace that none of really thought about.  After such a relaxed breakfast, both sets of guests were left with time for only a “little nature hike”.  Dickson Falls provided a stupendously beautiful spot.  Not a huge falls, but hugely beautiful.  My biggest treat was stepping back, taking pictures and picturing people gaining the intended benefit of a park.  All were ambling gently around, each pointing at their own sense of what to notice, chatting and being people with a shared, communal smile.  Anyone who designs or preserves parks would be happy celebrating the scene.

Perhaps my most reassuring moments were Gordon talking about his life style.  He takes no medications, lives in that unplanned, but willing way of allowing good moments into your day.  I won’t say his age, but at my 51, if I get to stay active and enjoy like he, I will celebrate a life of more than I expect or deserve.  Gordon’s inspiration to my youth continues today as he Lives every day seemingly without concern nor plans for what he should be doing.  He golfs regularly,  almost daily.  Exercises on a “Healthrider” every day (maybe only 5 minutes in good weather, but more through the deep Canada Winter).

100_6937After our brief hike our visitors had to get going their ways.  Jane and I said some sad goodbyes, Thanksgiving here is tomorrow, so it seems they all have commitments.  We drove off on the small bumpy highway 114 to let our decisions make themselves for the day.  I lazily thought, its cold, let’s leave the bikes in the truck (it takes about 5 minutes to get them out and reassemble them) and do a hike.  We did notice a trail on the map listed as “mountain biking” though and as we parked at Bennett Brook, decided to ride.  Overall the trail was 5.3 kilometers in to arrive at the confluence of Bennett Brook and the Pointe Wolfe River.  It started as a “lawn”, a mowed trail wide enough for a 4 wheeler, transistioned into some nice root/rocky mt. biking, then a fine blasting tree-line old road down to a point where no bikes were allowed.  It made sense as we hiked (hiding our bikes up in the woods above the trail) down some very tight and twisty switchbacks.  We descended steeply through mossy, ferny, nice places to find the ford below.

Another peek of Dickson Falls

Another peek of Dickson Falls

The ridges and hike probably dropped ~1000 feet into the valley.  A nice middle to our Brick of Bike, Hike, Bike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blasting, tree lined downhill

Blasting, tree lined downhill

The only problem was hiking difficult trails with the cleated, slippery bike shoes.  Caution was the theme and no injuries or falls occurred .  The green beauty gave us rewards for our crawl-pace, near tip-toe hike in bike shoes that anyone who has ever walked in such could identify with.

– David

 

 

 

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

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Bennett Brook

 

Day 22 10/6/2012 Our Tremendous Quebecois’

In life you sometimes meet someone, totally by chance or maybe at work, who YOU KNOW YOU WILL KEEP IN YOUR LIFE!  I was mountain biking one winter day about 8 years ago, and as I headed out of the woods I was surprised to meet another rider. He seemed more surprised to see me…there was 3″ of snow on the ground and he was Canadian (favoring the blue and white Fleur de Lis flag of Quebec, not the “maple leaf”).   Who in Maryland would bike in the snow?  Well, his name turned out to be Jean-Philippe. His wife Anne was in Baltimore for our famous Hopkins and Hubble Space Telescope.  J-P and Anne’s 31/2 year contract in Baltimore flew as Texas became the next place to work (it won over Vancouver, Hawaii and some other renowned telescopes).  We, of course, strive to share our fondness staying in touch (emails, calls….infrequent by busy-ness, but always greeted with the same gracious response).  These friends never scold for timing or say “you never call” or “you should call more”…we just take up at the moment.  Grateful for those around us, sometimes surprised by the resonance of reception.  Surprised by what they see in kind?100_6957

 

One of our survival techniques, a way to see as much of them as possible, has been to ski or vacation together.  In Feb-Mar 2011 we met them and shared an incredible week in a rented ski chalet in Utah.  Skiing with them at Brighton, Snowbird and Solitude won’t be forgotten.  But that is another little set of stories.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis day we arrived to meet Anne and Jean-Philippe in Moncton at the Riverview Walk and flushed a pheasant from the rushes where he lay.  The river there seems to be tidal also, but its hard to imagine this being so many miles inland from the bay.  The muddy tall banks confirmed it as we walked to find a brew pub in a new town.  Neither they nor we had ever been into Moncton.  The Oktoberfest menu lured us to try Bratwurst and “Keg-conditioned” (probably small-batch) ale.  Yummy enough (for beer, as I am not the biggest fan, drinking only about 4 or 5 glasses per year), smooth and well picked.  The food was good too, although we perhaps forgot to take a picture to share.

We spent the eve catching up and went to bed fairly early after all.  The Hopewell Rocks and Fundy National Park lay ahead.  Even though I warned J-P and Anne about my highway speeds, they still seemed to have to work hard to keep slowing down to my crawl.  Flashers on and the occasional car stuck between us did not impede our safe bobbing arrival.

Fundy flora

Fundy flora

The rocks lay off the shore in the Bay of Fundy, where the tide and thousands of years have formed awesome erosion patterns (and worth the admission figures for throngs of people over time).  The areas and economies brighten as you near the entrance, signs and attractions pop up miles before…then, there you have it: One gate to pass through then some very well-kept trails and viewpoints marking centuries of inhabitants and tourists.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe “flower-pot rocks” are several hundred feet tall, named by their appearance as trees and grasses sprout at the tops, while necks and narrow cliffs and caves are formed by the tides and icing of time.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnne so graciously treated our camping and National Park admissions as we arrived in Fundy Provincial Parc enough before dark to enjoy setting up camp before dark then relaxing around a fire.

 

Life clings where it can. The seaweed has tiny bladders filled with air that make it float when the tide comes in.

Life clings where it can. The seaweed has tiny bladders filled with air that make it float when the tide comes in.

Jean-Philippe hasn’t been REAL camping for years.  In Texas, he’s lucky to set up a tent near one tree and they don’t allow fires.  We had the traditional hours of watching and tending a nice fire before wind change and smoke chased us to bed.

– David

 

J-P's campfire

J-P’s campfire

Loose Ends, or – things we meant to post but somehow skipped…

1. ANDREW:

I’m not quite sure how but Andrew didn’t show in any of the pics from our visit to Stagge’s in and around Augusta. So, I’m correcting that with this photo. Andrew is one month older than my daughter and is beloved by everyone because he is smart, funny and kind. He is carving out a life for himself and his wife and baby on a rural family ‘compound’ in Farmingdale, Maine. We’re proud of him and I’m so glad to show him off here. BTW – the sleeping angel he’s holding is my grand-niece, Grace. She’s walking now and bumbling into things – as evidenced by the ow-ey on her forehead. She’s also starting to babble and ‘reads’ books to herself. SO cute!

2. FOX HILL

On a lonely logging highway in Maine called the Airline Road, we stopped for gas and postcards at a small cafe called Fox Hill General Store and Snack Bar. We spent a good deal of time here, blogging and sampling the excellent baked goods.

We chatted with the owner, Tina. She just opened the store very recently. A brave thing to do in such a wild place but she had customers coming in and out the entire time we were there. We bought some local potatoes and Mac apples, wished her well and were on our way.

3.  A LITTLE BAY OF FUNDY STORY

Probably in the 1970’s my grandmother and her sister, Aunt Margaret, took a sightseeing tour of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. The trip included crossing the Bay of Fundy, a Canadian natural wonder with extreme tide changes. I was never sure whether the tide changed caused the rough seas or if there was a big storm but the ship was tossed and rocking. Aunt Margaret was in the loo, which was entered by a door on the main deck. My grandmother waited at the rail outside. Suddenly, the ship lurched violently, tilting precariously. The door to the bathroom flew open and out skittered Aunt Margaret, panties around her knees. I’m sure she hoofed it back in as fast as she could but not before entertaining the onlookers.

For the rest of her life, my grandmother could not tell this story without dissolving into laughter, taking the rest of us with her.

– Jane