DAY 87 12/10/2012 The Travails of the day…

Leaving the free refuge of the Pensecola Walmart parking lot, we set out to try the Tramper at something new.  Riding a ferry in the Gulf from Fort Morgan to Fort Gaines below Mobile Alabama seemed like a fun coastal adventure.  A last-minute phone call nodded a no-go.  They weren’t accepting any trailers or RV’s today.  Drat!  Rolling along after packing up makes us think of “second-breakfast” sometimes, so when we saw the Coffee Cup Diner despite not having made it out of Pensacola yet, we parked out back. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI motioned to Jane as we cross the parking lot that we may be meeting our waitresses out back here while they seemed to be taking their smoke breaks.

Inside we found just our kind of place.  A broiling flame raged at the stove where the short-order cooks blazed through their lists of orders.  A simple menu praised the grits and on the wall was a sign: No Grits No Glory.  Jane went into the restroom to wash up, and as I sat down a new experience unfolded.  All around me smart phones started screeching and beeping.  They blasted a Tornado Warning!  Of course we don’t have a smart phone so there I was peeking over people’s shoulders, gleaning what I could and waiting for Jane.  One phone owner bragged about his last tornado while I tried to sort out my own reactions.

I still have more Tramper destinations.  There are still places to go, things to do.  Maybe the tramper attracted this thing as trailers so often do?  I have walked along the actual path of tornado destruction before and seen news descriptions.  Knowledge sometimes tells you exactly what to do; other times it tells you there’s nothing you can do.

By now Jane is out at our table.  We debate briefly whether to drive and hope we pick exactly the right time and direction, or stay put.  We stay and order coffee, grits and a biscuit.  There is a Bruce Cockburn song we love that goes: “If this were the last night of the world, what would I do that was different unless it were champagne with you?”  Today it was grits and good coffee; the waitress got a pretty good tip too!

Jane texted Debbie who used an iPad in Baltimore to check weather.  The warning was being lifted.  We heard the next day several unconfirmed twisters had touched down from Birmingham to Pensacola.  We didn’t see any.

The road later offered its own surprises.  Heavy traffic near Mobile and an accident in the light misty rain at a highway split.  The kind where our crawling column of traffic arrived just before the ambulance, only one cop had pulled up and the poor harried car was facing the wrong way showing its defaced, unrecognizable grill-less front end.  Boy do we count our blessings and lack of rush.

Later we rolled into a drenching, driving rain in Alabama.  The crowned road wasn’t enough to shed the torrent and I found myself glad to be rolling slowly with good tires all around and separate brakes on the trailer.

No more than half an hour later we coasted into a small town, Robertsdale, where we took note of the usual strip of stores, Advance Auto, Dollar General, Nail, and pawn shops.  By the second light I smelled transmission fluid.  Five seconds later Jane asks, “whats that smell?”OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Then the smoke!  Trying to block panic, I methodically look around for the right place to touch down.  I feel like a bush pilot, surveying the busy lots around where I would be in someone’s way or they in mine.  I pick a church on the right just in time to notice the transmission is shifting “differently“.  Shut it down, open the hood and EVERYTHING is soaked with boiling hot, red transmission fluid.  I can’t see a thing, can’t touch a thing, and can’t tell where all that red is coming from.  But there’s a steamy puddle growing on the ground already…

Yup, hood up as the universal sign “don’t tow me” and I advise Jane we will be entertaining ourselves for an hour while this thing cools.  I went and bought 4 quarts of Dexron, a roll of paper towels, box of rubber gloves, a bag of kitty litter and investigated the worst case price of a new radiator.  ~$240, and available within a few hours, I explain to Jane and the clerk that I probably won’t need it; it’s probably a transmission line going to the cooler up in the grill.   We also went to CVS for a little light shopping while the car continued to cool.

Of all the >100 mile off the beaten path places, all the night hours of driving, the rainy portions, and even the traffic jam this morning…our little 4Runner picked a town with 3 auto parts stores and “no grocer” to break down in.  Well, I have a paper suit just in case of these sorts of things.  (known as a bunny suit in the hospital world)

Where's-my-super-suit?

Where’s-my-super-suit?

Where is my super-suit?  Jane “what”?  Where-Is-My-Super-Suit?  (You’d have to have watched The Incredibles recently to get that reference).  So, I donned the paper suit, used half a roll of paper towels to dry everything, cleaned the front tires and found the culprit.  Whether I failed to tie the hoses down as well as I thought or the mechanic in New York accidentally knocked things loose doesn’t matter.

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The transmission line had risen above a critical height and been rubbed through by the fan.  Half an hour later and we were rolling safely again.  We determined to make it ALL THE WAY TO NEW ORLEANS.  Arriving the back way to St Bernard State Park at about 7:30 was of no concern to the ranger and we settled in for a quiet night in the Tramper.

– David

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An Open Letter To The Sunshine State

Dear Florida,

Thank you for a very nice two weeks. making-a-map-pictureYour weather was very nice. We met some very nice people. We were happy to swim in warm water.

You reminded me, with every palm tree, citrus stand and tacky souvenir shop, of my many trips to Florida as a young person. Thank you for that.

news feature_manatee_season_05_kws_1Also, I saw my first ever manatee. And an alligator that wasn’t in some sad little pen.

But, the most important thing that you have done and will, I hope, continue to do is take care of Alex and Daria and Zealen. I love that little family. Keep them safe.

Wilderness-Trail-webIf I might make what I feel to be constructive criticism, you really need some hills. And dirt. Some rocks maybe. Hiking and mountain biking would be so, so much more fun if you did.

I have to say that if I were a poor person, I would definitely want to live in Florida. I’m sure that being poor is a daunting challenge wherever you live, but in Florida, you hardly need any clothes. Baltimore poor folks have to somehow find a complete wardrobe. Summer clothes, yes, but also clothes for winter. Coats, hats, scarves, gloves, sweaters. Real shoes. Long pants.

Florida poor folks have only to outfit themselves with a pair of swim trunks, two pair of flip-flops from the Dollar store and a 4-pack of Hanes wife-beater undershirts. Male and female. And they are good for the whole year! 

floridagunAlso, you can carry your gun everywhere you go and shoot anything that moves,  for your supper. 

Again, thank you for showing us a good time.

Sincerely, 

Jane

 

DAY 86 – 12/09/2012 Cape San Blas, Florida

Florida is such a big state! We will be in the Sunshine State for another few days as we travel our slow, backroads pace, heading West. Before we left home, neighbor Leslie recommended a place on Florida’s Gulf Coast with white sand beaches and clear, blue-green water called Cape San Blas. (Funny, we thought she said “Sand Blast”. But even Florida would not name a place Sand Blast, would they?).

What?!

What?!

We stopped for some rest enroute to San Blas at a cute little festival in the town of Sopchoppy. (OK, maybe there could be a place in Florida called Sand Blast!). I saw my favorite Christmas blow-up of all time. Normally, I like them not at all, but who could resist a pop-up Santa?

I gave away the books I’d finished reading to a fellow traveller who reads 6 or 7 books a week.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

He and his wife do “something stupid”, as they call it, every 5 years or so. They drop everything and take off in their RV rig to wander. Sounds like a great plan!?

We believe!

We believe!

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Like!
Like!

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San Blas was everything we hoped it would be. Beautiful weather. Days in the upper 70’s. Evenings down to 60 or so. Gulf water warm enough to swim in. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPalm trees swaying in balmy breezes. Gulls, herons and pelicans whirling overhead and fishing the blue and green water of Eagle Harbor, on the bay side.

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They call this “The Forgotten Coast” and right now, I believe it because the campground is only half full. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the beach you may only see a couple of other people. Kayaking on the bay side we saw no one. And, Daria – you were so right about Florida’s Gulf Coast beaches. I’m not sure where I was 20 years ago when I was last here, but it sure wasn’t San Blas! It’s a great beach.

It’s an uncrowded paradise. A perfect little sojourn as we start thinking about skiing and camping in the snow. But, skiing is a long way off. Maybe 5 or 6 weeks. Meanwhile, we bask in the sun…

– Jane

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DAY 84 -12/7/2012 Piney Creek Campground, Apalachicola National Forest

We left Walmart/Target errands and the Interstate knowing there were several big green expanses stretched out before us on the map.  Hoping to find more refuge we slowed for the first promising road, Log Landing, to see a closed gate and notices of “No County Maintenance”.  Drive on and hope.  Our ally is patience, the only enemy is the fatigue and irritation of driving too far or too long.  Today we know not to drive too far, we are just overcoming those pesky colds and planned to drive 2 hours max.

Bingo!  The next possibility (a road with a campground icon) from our detailed Garmin computer map is Piney Creek and here it is with a nice brown National Forest sign.  We drove in to the end where we saw a boat ramp and a family camping.  Each in high rubber boots and camo.  This turns out to be the uniform of choice, the boots have later been called snake-boots by our hunter friends.  I withold judgement as semi-friendly guy walks to my driver side door.  Are ya’ll looking for the campground?  Its the first dirt road on the left.  A little clarification and smiling banter later and we’re on our way.

Always aware, always checking we parked on the bigger dirt road and walked a few hundred yards into an idyllic clearing.

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Here were 80-100′ tall pines with barely a branch until the high canopy above.  Several nice, level, grassy areas were scattered in the clearing.  Palmetto surrounds and makes up the the thick underbrush.  Deep in the back were three tents, already set, extra canopies, a cooking area/grill canopy and a small wooden shelter-box with hay in it but No trucks.  Hmmm?  Probably hunter camp.

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We’ve become more and more comfortable with hunters as the trip winds onward, but remain wary.  We set up away from their zone, and found visual blinds feeling they may or may not come at all.

We donned our blaze orange vests and took a short hike.  Picking up the few strewn beer cans was an exercise in seeing how much we could do.  The parking lot walks, putt-putt golf had taxed us as much as our cold had allowed!   Wow, from five-thousand foot mountain hikes and intense shoreline mt. bike rides to this.  Waffling around, coughing at sea level.  Jane worried aloud whether we will have lost our fitness base.

I reassure her that one week of rest can be a wonderful restorative respite.  Some of my fastest races in the 80’s followed “longer” rests like this.  I hope for a quick return to the healthy state we have been building.  Low stress, long sleep, great food, good sights and nice people are surely the nicest environment we could have hoped for.  We’ll be strong soon.  This flatland sea level thing is funny though.  We both yearn for mountains.

Night fell after a nice cooking fire.  The Milky Way bodes us well and we asleep before 10.  Both of us alert as a truck pulls in through the sandy road and parks.  Men unload and it is clear they are occupying their hunting camp.  It is only midnight, they moved in at a modest pace, but before long I heard the long zzz,  zzz, of sleeping bag zippers, Later a bit of snoring.

Their dog Katy was first to notice me as I went out.  She bayed a wagging approval and curiosity.  Sniper, the beagle was better behaved.  I walked oner to meet three brothers; Angelo, John and Gus.  Each was gracious and had a story or two to share.  Gus had painted bridges all over the country.  His tales went to many of my favorite places.  His reaction, much as my own.  There are more good people than there are bad!

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The next night we find ourselves guests at their fire/table as Angelo came over, explained the Greek roots of Tarpon Springs, FL.  The signature dish tonight was spoken in Greek and we reiterated it’s name, then promptly forgot.  Suffice to say that blackened onions, pasta and feta cheese go well together!

The brothers were a true joy to be with.  We shared many common interests, described some differences and were struck by that quick comfort found in people sometimes.  They described some unsavory types who used to frequent this forest, but between the rangers, game wardens, and brothers, the place is nice again.

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Palmetto detail courtesy of Jane!

– David

DAY 81 – 12/4/2012 Cedar Key, “another suggested stop”

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As we reluctantly waved goodbye to our hosts, Zealen asked; “why do they have to go”?

Zealen with Alex & Daria

Zealen with Alex & Daria

Its so hard to leave the familiar and known love.  We always try not to overstay our welcome (and in this case pray we didn’t leave our colds behind).  We leave because we are traveling, we seek our road rhythm.  Boy, its hard to leave when a four year old wants you to stay.

Our next two plus hour drive stretches to nearly four. But as we started heading for any “green on the map” we focus on getting to Cedar Key.  A delightful cat owner neighbor on Jekyll Island had said “it’s nice there” and cat owners are reputable sources for this kind of information.  So we took our chances driving to a campground without a reservation once again.  Bruce at Sunset Campground, Cedar Key, FL greets me at about 7 PM and asks if I mind “just parking and using Scout’s Honor” to register in the morning.  On my honor…

The MilkyWay makes an appearance.  Through whatever combination of preoccupation, city lights or temporarily ignoring the environment, we haven’t seen the sky for days.  Life IS like that…we chug along noticing whatever we’ve chosen as pertinent and see nothing else.  Ever notice how prominent telephone poles and wires look in pictures sometimes when you barely notice them in life?  At least that is a good function of our selective attention.

But I digress.  I can’t see any constellations, there are too many stars in between.  The night is a peppered canvas in every direction.  The Milky Way splashes dramatically right through it all.  Jane and I meet a fellow camper via his small Schnauzer with a fresh haircut, and even rapt in his storied Western travels, BOTH of us notice a shooting star off over his left shoulder!

Later we fed ourselves, and wandered to the water’s edge for more joyous sky.  By the way, we were wearing shorts and t-shirts embraced by the balmy Florida evening.  Crickets abound and chatter in every direction.  My first flashlight aimed at the water triggered an equally abundant and multi-directional chorus of splashes and movement.  Unseen fish or bugs or bug eating fish were on the move.  Scanning the cove scared a roosting bird, so I quickly doused the light again.

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The natural fisher, no net required…

The WORLD IS FULL OF LIFE!  The WORLD IS FULL OF BEAUTY!

– David

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Peilcan flying lessons

So many choices...which fish should we order today?

So many choices…which fish should we order today?