DAY 94 12/17/2012 Texas Tour de Quebecois

In our long road West, we just had to visit Jean-Philippe in College Station, Texas.  Since he moved from Baltimore, we have missed him and his wife Anne.  They are temporarily apart by career investigation needs. Anne is now teaching in Sackville, New Brunswick. J-P is finishing projects here in Texas and abroad in Chile.

In them we found an intellectual curiosity that piques our own.  An ability to work hard, like it, and still have joy to throw into life after work.  In them we find laughter and a hope that earth is a pretty good place to live.  We looked so forward to visiting J-P that we drove hard from New Orleans.  Our one Walmart stop in Lake Charles led to being surprised by the Toys-For-Tots inspiration (see previous post), then back on the road!

The rural roads and dreaded Interstate in these big Southern states have 70 and 75 mph speed limits!  We just Tramp along at 55-60 and let our bright LED tail and marker lights, reflectors and red triangle warn everyone to pass at will.  They do.

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J-P, center, the laser physicist in his instrumentation lab with, from right, Travis – mechanical engineer, David, and two undergrad students. Real-life Big Bang Theory!?

College Station, of course, is the town around Texas A & M.  A multi-specialty University with everything you’d expect supporting and surrounding it.  J-P is a gracious host and guide.  He claims we hosted him with more cooking and feeding.  I’m not so sure, but we do like bringing our own kitchen and bedroom.

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We were treated to several Texas treats.  Mostly we learned Texas has a lot to offer!  It is a more beautiful and varied place than we could have imagined.  There is a lot here and the people couldn’t have been warmer or more friendly.  We ate a fresh grilled Texas steak, oh yeah, delicious!  Sampled fried pickles at a bar and grill named Crickets.  We ate Tex-Mex at Los Cucos and enjoyed really their scrumptious enchiladas, relenos, and then the next night we also ate at a great Texas BBQ, J Cody’s.  There may have been an excess of mounted deer on the walls, but the friendliness was real and the food as moist as a treasured family cookout.  Jane and I especially liked those fried pickles at Cricket’s, now slices instead of spears.

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Jean-Philippe brought us mountain biking too.  First we went to Waco, where any of my own preconceived ideas disappeared at a delightful riverside park, Cameron Trails.  A slow level river ride was a nice warmup that led to a mix of old and new trails with names like Hale-Bop, Cedars, Slinky,  and Highlands.  There were trees and hills!  Lots of trees, cedars, pines and a generously thick thicket.  There were smooth buff twisty single tracks.  Lacing them with roots and rocks added the treat we bikers love.  Jane enjoyed the bulk of our ride before insisting I take off with J-P.

He’s  been club riding regularly, racing a bit and is as slim, svelt and fast as ever.  He complimented me in saying no matter what we do, we are always the same speed.  I can’t say I’ve been training, but I also won’t pretend the voyage life isn’t a great diet of play, light good food and Very Regular activity.  We chased each other gleefully up and down for an extra hour and a half!  Aerobic exercise just isn’t work when the trail beckons and a friend is in reach.  Nice to know I still have that “old-guy-strength”.

A rare day of rain led us to rest, go see The Hobbit at a local theater and plan the Tramper updates.  Saturday I bought new tires for the trailer.  Without getting too technical, I wanted a bigger margin of safety.  In Maine, the trailer weighed in at 3460 lbs.  The original tires I selected during rebuilding are “C” rated for ~1800 lbs. each.  They also only held 50psi and seemed to be wearing badly at the inside edge (as seen in the Greensboro, NC posts).  I found wider, slightly bigger tires that are “E” rated for ~2800 lbs each and can be run up to 80 psi.  This should be MUCH better!100_7441

I had also noted that even though the 4Runner brakes were new when we left Baltimore, the truck now pulled slightly Left under hard braking.  A cursory look showed no particular problems.  Closer inspection did reveal an anti-squeal shim that had slipped and seemed a little off.  I knew doing nothing would change nothing.  I also couldn’t be sure whether a new pair of brake pads ($30) may or may not solve anything.  The hydraulics seemed OK, no leaks and no obvious signs of a stuck caliper.  (I had cleaned ’em and bled ’em in Baltimore, evacuating and flushing  ALL old brake fluid with over a quart of fresh Castrol high boiling point fluid).

So there I was with a possible way to improve it without going overboard.  The new brake pads were higher quality, better fit, and infused with ceramic.  I figured the odds trying something were better than the odds of doing nothing and just wondering what was wrong.  Then the guys I met at Napa were super nice too.  Apos is a Geology major and suggested lots of cool stops on our way West in addition to helping out with car parts.

I cleaned things up, popped in new pads and Voila!  It works, No More Pulling!  Sure is nice to pay for parts only.  I solved the problem for about $30 total.  Then on Tuesday morning, I paid someone else do our oil change.  I didn’t want to buy a big drain pan and deal with recycling the oil and cleaning out a pan…just pay the guys at Shell to take care of that.  They too became enthralled with our journey and added a few good suggestions.  Mostly each to a man wished us safe travels!  “Safe travels” spoken like they meant it; it rings so deep when I hear that.

Lastly, Jean-Philippe followed us down near Brastop to a small private mountain bike park called Rocky Hill Ranch.  They host 24 hour races and run the admission fees by honor system, keeping maps available at the “restrooms”.  We had yet another good shared ride, starting with scrambling up Fat Chuck’s Demise (rumored to have brought on an early end to its namesake).  The only bad aspect of this particular start is right off the lot, it is climbing.  Clawing up and around a handful of twisty roots,  laced heavily with egg and potato-sized rocks is a tough way to start.  Mountain bikers sometimes call these loose nodes “baby-doll-heads”.  Altogether they are much easier to roll over on downhills.

When J-P and I added our boy-time ride to use up the last of the light we headed deeper into the forest, finding a great piney narrow sinuous place of middle-ring/middle gear aerobic glee.  We traded leads again and again as we rode hard and steady.  Sometimes I miss racing.   But really, I miss riding hard and steady with such a good host and great friend.  Besides, our non-race rides now often last 5 or 6 hours and we snack and laugh much more than racers ever do!

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J-P gets ready to ride at Rocky Hill Ranch.

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Fun trail at Rocky Hill.

 

– David

DAY 91 – 12/14/2012 Toys and Toys and Toys for Tots, Lake Charles, LA

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We had camped in a Walmart parking lot again. It was morning now and time to hit the road. One last quick stop inside the store and off we would go.

But, an unusual sight at the checkout line stopped us cold.

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A group of men and women buying multiple bikes and carts-full of toys.

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Something was up. Something good. We had to slow down and find out…

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All these toys and bikes were to be donated to the local Toys for Tots campaign, run by the US Marine Corps.

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These folks, out on a busy Saturday in the run-up to Christmas, were from a company called SASOL North America in Westlake, Louisiana.

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Tens of thousands of dollars were raised within the company. Employees, participating in a Safety Program, had prompted monetary donations from SASOL (and a match from a contractor) to fund this toy buy.

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So, here they were, on Day 2 of buying for kids they will never meet who are in need at Christmas. In need of joy. With parents in need of knowing someone cares.

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A small army of loving hearts and generous souls were working hard, and using their precious time, to help the Toys for Tots campaign make Christmas brighter for needy folks.

We watched as this little band marched out to the parking lot with their toys, loaded them in their own vehicles and drove off to the donation center.

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Once again, we were privileged on the Tramper Voyage to see people with love in their hearts, acting on their commitments to help others.

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– Jane

A Sad Legacy…

On the way out of New Orleans, we visited the Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, LA.

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It’s a beautiful place, separated only by a levee from the mighty Mississippi River. In it’s time it was a sugarcane plantation. Wise investors and devoted historians have saved it from the ravages of time. imagesNow, it’s an educational site. It gives a glimpse of antebellum life for all the people who lived there.

That now includes the slaves who made the whole thing possible long ago. Time (and shame) had eradicated the wooden houses behind the ‘big house’. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANow, the slave quarters are being rebuilt and acknowledgement of the system of enslaving other humans for gain is being rendered.

The roster of ‘inventory’ is reproduced on a plaque. This list bears silent witness to generations of suffering. Human beings, listed as possessions…100_7386

Hard to imagine, the owning of people and the state of being “owned”! Notice on the list that families are not listed completely. The women and their children surely had a husband and father but these facts are ignored.

Credit has to go to the foundation for producing this vivid accounting of human suffering. It’s nothing for them to be proud of, but it is a fact.

My folks, in this era, were quite poor, working very hard to keep body and soul together. But, my folks were free. Free to live where they chose. Free to be who they needed or wanted to be.

Sometimes we all long for the Good Old Days but never the days of slavery!

– Jane

Commerce on the Mississippi River 12/13/2012

It was interesting to see how current and crucial the great Mississippi still is to shipping and commerce.  We know historically that rivers have always been centers of transit.  We saw the pioneer examples at the Canada Creek log landing in the Adirondacks and the strategic needs at Fort Ticonderoga before and during the Revolutionary War.

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As we waited for the Belle Chasse ferry we saw the tanker Overseas Texas City moored across the river, just a couple of bends in the river from downtown New Orleans. The Overland Texas City is at right in the picture above.

To see where the she is now, click the link HERE. This is a fun website. It tracks vessels going into and out of ports around the world. By the time you click on the link, Overland Texas City may be “out of range” but it’s still an interesting site!  All you need is the name of a ship and you can see what it carries, learn its port of origin, heading, speed and destination.

We knew that this river in particular was historically heavily used. At this plantation we visited, Oak Alley, the Mississippi was the primary artery that connected people and moved product.

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Even today, the river at the end of this avenue of 300-year-old Virginia Live Oaks at Oak Alley Plantation is a conduit for commerce.  All along the river in Louisiana, there are docks and ships and industry of many types.  Domino Sugar has a big presence, as does petroleum, and apparently plastics of many types.

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We saw the Point Lisas Pearl, pictured below, at Vacherie, LA. Click HERE  to see where she is now. This is a fun website. It tracks many vessels going into and out of ports around the world. By the time you click on the link, Point Lisas Pearl may be “out of range” but it’s still an interesting site!

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Down the road, pipes and conveyors of wild design convey things to the to docks at the river, where boats move unfathomable tons to ports unknown.

Here’s a video:

Farther downriver, oil refineries and plastics companies transport goods via the Mississippi.

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The river is just on the other side, behind the refineries. We saw many more boats and barges than trucks leaving these plants

Here’s a giant pile of green plastic. Ready to go downriver or maybe just unloaded from a ship on the Mississippi.  The smell reminded me of styrene models I built as an adolescent.  I was happy to keep driving and get further away.

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– Jane and David

DAY 89 – 12/12/12 in New Orleans

On 10/10/10 we first visited New Orleans for a wedding and fell in love with the city. So it was kind of appropriate that we came back on 12/12/12.

Our first day in the Crescent City was a cold and damp one. We discovered on our previous visit that the best way to navigate around New Orleans was by bicycle. Rarely does less-than-ideal weather prevent us from our biking plan. So, off we went.

Roadway through the levee

Roadway through the levee

Getting a late start from our campsite at St Bernard State Park, we rode two ferries in, had lunch and visited the Insectarium, then rode two ferries out.

Missed that one! The ferry heads out across the Mississippi.

Missed that one! The ferry heads out across the Mississippi.

The ferries were necessary   because a bicycle can’t go over many of the Mississippi River bridges. The river snakes through New Orleans like the Grinch around a Christmas tree.

On the ferries, we had an opportunity to chat with some of the locals. We got some interesting inside info on the city, and Katrina.

Bikes and pedestrians only on this ferry.

Bikes and pedestrians only on this ferry.

In varied accents (Creole, Cajun, Southern and folks who talk just like me) we heard stories about the wrath of the storm seven years ago. Ginger spent several months in Georgia, away from her wrecked home.

A cold ride

A cold ride

The would-be river boat captain told a story about the flow of mighty Mississippi that day. The boilermaker, charming as could be, didn’t talk much about Katrina, but his love for his home was evident in his story about industry along the banks of the river.

In the Butterfly Room at the Insectarium in New Orleans. Butterflies fly around you and land on you!

In the Butterfly Room at the Insectarium in New Orleans. Butterflies fly around you and land on you!

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Moth display

Moth display

Back home via ferry

Back home via ferry

Day two dawned clear and sunny and quite a bit warmer. We took off on bikes again, skipping the fun but time-eating ferry and driving in to a cheap ($5.00 per day) parking lot just outside the French Quarter.

My daughter, having recently travelled to New Orleans, recommended Betsy’s Pancake House on Canal Street in the Mid City neighborhood.

12:12 on 12/12/12

12:12 on 12/12/12

Betsy’s was yummy. Grits and blueberry pancakes were consumed as the clock read 12:12 on 12/12/12!

Next up was City Park and the Singing Oak. It was magical, standing under the massive tree, hung with wind chimes of all sizes! All tuned to the pentatonic scale.

Here’s a better video of the Singing Oak:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2emTYIHg3bw

Checking out the Mayan art in the New Orleans Art Museum

Checking out the Mayan art in the New Orleans Art Museum

It being Wednesday, the New Orleans Museum of Art was free, so of course we checked it out.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANext up was a bicycle tour of the French Quarter. Bourbon street was hopping at two in the afternoon! The party, apparently, never ends.

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Jackson Square

Jackson Square

100_7323Lastly, we took refreshments at Cafe du Monde. Cups of Cafe au Lait were raised in memory of my dear mom, who loved the beignets and coffee so much she would visit the Cafe more than once on each visit to New Orleans.

On the way back to St Bernard park, we went over the Claiborne Street bridge.

Katrina's legacy.

Katrina’s legacy.

I had read about Brad Pitt’s work for Katrina victims and hoped that we would see some of the houses that his foundation is building.

We were strongly advised not to bike or drive around the Ninth Ward. The pale green house in the middle field is one of Brad Pitt's houses. Note the plethora of solar panels on the rebuilt houses!

We were strongly advised not to bike or drive around the Ninth Ward. The pale green house in the middle field is one of Brad Pitt’s houses. Note the plethora of solar panels on the rebuilt houses!

If you click on the bottom photo to open it, you can see the rebuilt Ninth Ward.

www.makeitright.org

– Jane