Category Archives: Travel in the USA

East Does Not Meet West!

You know the saying “The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence”? In other words, we believe we might like something we don’t have better than the thing we do have. Well, that old saying does not always apply to cross country travel. Why? Because, compared to the American West, the American East is definitively greener. But, no one from the West wants to go there!

We have found, on our travels throughout the country, that this is true.

People who live on the East Coast almost universally, except for those who don’t travel at all, wish to go and see the marvels of the West. The Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Yosemite, Zion, Grand Teton, Arches, the Redwoods. The list goes on and on.

The West contains landscapes of a staggering nature. Sheer beauty so different from what Easterners are used to seeing, it’s a shock to the system. A wonderful shock, to be sure, but of high, amazing drama. And, to know that all these natural wonders belong to every American and that we hold them in trust for all to see, well, you just have to go!

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And go we do! Easterners flock to the West. But, Westerners do not flock to the East. Why, I’m not totally sure. I think they’re not saying, because “if you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all”.

We frequently asked folks we met out West if they’d ever been East. “Well, no.” was the number one answer. Most folks didn’t say anything more. Except maybe: “There’s so many trees! You can’t see but a few yards away, maybe a quarter mile at the most. I feel all closed in, in the East.” or, “It’s too crowded there. Too many cars. I can’t drive in that”.

So, the only conclusion we come to is this: Westerners don’t believe there’s anything good on the East Coast. We sometimes would tell them that we “followed Fall down the East Coast”. “Oh, yes. The leaves. It must be beautiful. I might go see that someday.”. But, they haven’t yet and didn’t make any plans to do so.

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But, consider these facts, my Western friends:

1. Our country began in the East. John Adams, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson. All were born here and created the foundations of America here, in the East. There are buildings – whole towns – that are hundreds of years older than things out West. (That white guys built, anyway. Those Ancestral Puebloans built things long before white guys landed in the Caribbean.)

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2. The American Civil War and the Revolutionary War took place on Eastern soil. There are hundreds of battlefield sites and there are structures still standing that saw the agonies of those wars. Come and learn something!

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3. Our nation’s capitol, Washington D.C., sits regally on the shores of the Potomac River, waiting for all Americans to come see how our government works. There are many thrilling museums and monuments to behold and be proud of.

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4. New York City. The Big Apple, huge and exciting, glitters on the Hudson.

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5. Come see something moist, for heaven’s sake. The rivers, creeks, stream beds and reservoirs are full! Of water! Hard to believe, but true. The East is waterland! Down South is steamy, with hanging moss and palm trees. And very friendly people with a great cuisine. And they’ll show you how people used to live, before we found all that space, out West. Up North, you’ll find a different culture. And those famous leaves.

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So, here’s an open invitation to our new, Western friends. Travel East. Stay with us and we’ll show you around the Mid-Atlantic. Just bring along some Valium – it might be too exciting!

– Jane

Photo of the Week #2

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Seen on a gray day at an auto salvage & steel scrap yard on the Navajo Nation Reservation in northeast Arizona.

Very eye-catching. These metal workers are artists and comedians! May they ever be thus…

– Jane & David

DAY 185 – 3/13/2013 KANSAS has AWESOME Mountain Biking!

How Interstate 70 sees Kansas

How Interstate 70 sees Kansas

Really!  Yes, really!  Driving along Interstate 70 toward the Baltimore Beltway, albeit ~1600 miles away, my job is to keep the rig on the road safely, and keep Marfa running happily.  Several over 10,000′ mountain passes behind, I assure Jane that the “World’s largest prairie dog and a 5 legged steer may be our only entertainment for quite a few miles.  In fact, here we are wondering what Appalachian adventure to look for and what the weather will give us on official arrival to the East.

We do also so look forward to several possible visits.  A  favorite who we met in Rosendale, Jason is training in Indianapolis.  We really hope to share at least a meal or a few hours with him.

We had wanted to steer North, see Yosemite, The Pacific Northwest, Glacier, the Dakotas, The Upper Peninsula and a host of other wonders around this great country.  We have, however, run out of paper towels.  Yes, my skimpy rationing has kept Jane laughing with little corners or half-towels all across America.  J-P endowed us with quite a few in College Station, TX, some 6 or 7 rolls!   But now with the Salida refills running low, we acknowledge we must bring our Voyage to some realistic close.  Actually it may be our bank accounts suggesting finding jobs again.  But it’s so much more fun to track paper towels and take their lead, money reasons would be SO tiresome…

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So driving along, Jane’s job is finding adventures, entertainment and cool diversions.  I can always count on her!  She used Singletracks.com to find the cool trails in Franklin, NH.  She and this little laptop have led not only to coolness, but also contributed to safety.  As I must concede to checking weather.com for travel routes and to avoid storms or improve our timing.  With an 8000 lb rig I can’t afford to chase powder days or other whims; if snow, we just dust off the solar panel and sit tight.  Maybe unhitching Marfa and skiing nearby.

But this day, charged with finding fun in Kansas, I had little hope.  I do admit to the stereotype and the I-70 perspective of flat, boring, wide and soul-less land.  Yes, I know, according to the sign “an average Kansas farmer feeds 155 Americans”.  But I don’t subscribe to such a large-scale mono-culture anymore anyway.  Buy local, grow local etc.

Jane was searching the “hometown of two fictitious characters” who will stay un-named.  Lawrence, KS is right on the path homeward, can’t be bad detour to get a little “Welcome to Lawrence” pic, right?  That resourceful and wonderful wife of mine found MORE!   She found a mountain biking trail at a state park and reservoir built by the Army Corp of Engineers!  Clinton Lake and Clinton State Park. They offer trail networks for hikers, Mt Bikers and a separate equestrian area.

Not just a trail, but a GREAT trail!  23 miles of dedicated single-track!  Flowing, technical, rocky and WONDERFUL SINGLE-TRACK!  Maps supplied in the kiosk showed us the basic parallel paired White and Blue Trails leading out to “West End” of the park, following the great rocky-ridge just between the campground and Bluebird Restoration Habitats and above the water level of the lake.  We followed the “more difficult” White Trail outward as it crawled up and down delightful dips and rolls of the terrain.  The mile markers ticked by slowly.  This was a trail that rivals any trail I’ve ridden in my many states of the union!  My 27 years of riding and even old racing days carried me from Vermont through the rocky Mid-Atlantic and South into Virginia.  This trip did the same, and more…extending my experience into New Hampshire, Maine, Big Bend, Moab and Colorado.

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The dancing up and down on this long ridge provided a rolling ride with just enough climb to get ya breathless without a complete downshift, then rewarded with similar bumpy, “bumbling” downhills.  Many of these “little climbs” felt truly rewarding as I “cleaned” a bunch of them.  The times I dabbed were neither embarrassing nor too frustrating to keep me from clipping right back in and trying again.

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We saw the requisite curious herd of deer.   At the furthest reaches I thought I’d spied a cactus.  Jane saw it too.  And later we read the name, “Cactus Ridge” on a detail map.  I also happened upon the most self protective tree ever, Honey Locust.  Thorns as big as my hand.  Don’t lean on that tree; don’t even brush against it riding by.

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Trying to get $10 worth of Slime from the tubes bought in Terlingua; "Pump and Pray" they said.

Trying to get the $10 worth of Slime from the tubes bought in Terlingua; “Pump and Pray” they said.

Watching Jane on the rocks was also a great joy.  She learned long ago that rocks have more traction than roots.  With aplomb and only a late bit of fatigue she mustered deep into our five hour ride.  Conveniently, the park layout allows a bailout at any time to go onto the plateau and refill waters or ride park roads back if it’s ever needed.  KANSAS has AWESOME Mountain Biking!

Here’s a link to the Lawrence Mountain Bike Club. They maintain these trails in concert with the Kansas Trails Council. Great job!!

– David

DAY 182 – 03/12/2013 – Two Last Ski Days in Colorado

“I noticed the carny nature of your trip”, said the gruff-looking security guard as he allowed us to camp in the ski area parking lot overnight.

I won’t name him nor will I name the ski area where he works. We don’t want him to get in any trouble for his kindness which I’ll describe below.

I wrote down this quote as soon as he said it. It was too good not to note. At one time in his life, he was a ‘carny’ – a carnival worker and a vagabond himself.

After we left Sequoia National Park, we turned Eastward for home. Marfa, the 4Runner, faced one more great challenge: getting back over the Rocky Mountains! But, David wanted to ski a bit more. We were right there, where all the big Colorado resorts were. And, we had a good line on a discount for some of them.

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Up and up and up, over one of the passes through the Rockies

So, we picked one and it was a beauty! Fresh snow all over. Deep and puffy and so much fun! Certainly the deepest powder we skied all winter.

But, the one barrier to enjoying all this snow was the Tramper itself. We were in Summit County, a very chi-chi area of Colorado. We were actually rejected by the only campground open. Because the Tramper was too small!! Tiger Run has a HOA (home owner’s association) and I guess the trailer owners have an attitude because they live in an expensive resort town. Phhfftt! It’s still a trailer park, for heaven’s sake!

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Soon we will say goodbye to the beautiful West!

We checked into the La Quinta that night. Seemed simpler than driving around looking for a place to park. What a nice hotel! (We have only used a hotel one other time on The Tramper Voyage. In Kayenta, on the Navajo Rez. Because the Navajo Nation has their own laws which we do not know.)

Still, we couldn’t leave skiing behind, yet. So, we decided to do what we’ve done successfully before. Park overnight on the ski area parking lot. Did we ask anyone if we could do this? Nope. Sometimes, it’s better to ask forgiveness than for permission.

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As snow kept piling up around us, we settled in and made dinner. Then, an authoritative knock on the door! David opened up to reveal the ski area security guard. “There’s no overnight parking here. Didn’t you see the sign?”

Well, no, we didn’t. David got out and began talking with this gentleman, explaining why we parked here. David is one of the most personable people I know. He didn’t try to convince the guard to let us stay. He simply began sharing some of the Tramper Voyage with him. Soon, there was a smile on the guard’s face. He turned out to be a kindred spirit; one who had wandered with a carnival! He said that which is quoted at the beginning of the post. He could see then that we were not some 20-somethings who would get drunk and do something stupid. (Apologies to my 20-something friends who would never do this!)

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Dawn. In our ‘secret’ location.

The guard showed us to another parking lot. A bit higher up. A bit more secluded. Nicer. Wow! I’m so lucky to be traveling with David. He connected so nicely with the guard. OK, maybe part of it was my sad face!

– Jane

PS –  In her ever accommodating and sometimes apologetic way, Jane insisted I “take a few runs on my own”.  I don’t always agree to those suggestions, skiing or biking entirely with her is a joy and only slightly slower or less intense than I’d do alone.  But today, up I went above the treeline and into a bowl.  A bowl is a huge open area of snow, usually “bowl-shaped” and exposed.  This one had filled with snow!  Lots of snow!  I like the exposed nature of these places as there are always surprises. High mountain winds can scour one place to an icy plank while, with a little thought, you can find where all that snow was deposited.  Several turns of each of my runs found that familiar ice.  I kinda like ice, having grown up skiing Pennsylvania boilerplate.  But then I found it, each run was also buoyed by the knee-deep glee of a powder day.  Bounding up and down til I was near spent, I laughed my way back to our meeting place before leaving the western slopes!

– David

DAY 178 – 03/07/2013 – Moab, UT Slickrock Bike Trails

So, we arrived at the world-famous Slickrock Trails in Moab, Utah. We set up camp across the road from the entrance.

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Gorgeous campsite! Right across the road from the trailhead.

Even though it was about 40 minutes until dark, we tried out the trails, intending to ride more extensively in the coming days. Or, rather, I tried out the trails. David had already been to Moab several times before. He loved this technical riding and looked forward to introducing it to me.  He calls it riding on Velcro!

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The 11 miles of Slickrock Trail routes climb up and down the petrified sand dunes, actually Navajo Sandstone. It’s not recommended for unskilled mountain bikers. The scenery is gorgeous, with the snow-covered La Sal Mountains as a backdrop.

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David on the Slickrock

And I hated it. Really didn’t like it at all! To be fair, we had just driven all day to get here and were tired. We hadn’t changed into bike clothes, just put on our bike shoes and set out on the Practice loop. It was scary. I could not get up most of the hills. Going down was so nerve-racking, I hopped off the bike only to find that the metal cleats on the bottom of the shoes slipped on the rock surface. Gargh!

The formations are called “Slickrock” because horses, with their own metal shoes, did not have reliable footing. Not so for the rubber tires on bicycles and motorcycles. The rock surface is similar to sandpaper. Tires grip really well.

David is a very patient man. He was disappointed that I didn’t like one of his favorite mountain biking experiences. But, he asked me to try it again the next day, this time with my running shoes, for grip when I step off the bike. Instead of heading for the marked trails, we practiced on a big rock in the campground. And, slowly, I got the hang of it.

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“Grippy” shoes helped. (even a pair of old platform pedals would have been nice)

We advanced to the Slickrock Trail. Now that I trusted the surface, it became easier. And much, much more fun! Lots of ups and downs and turns. There were white dots on the rocks to mark the trail, but you can ride your own course to navigate the hills and valleys, staying near the dots, if not exactly on them.

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David was non-stop smiles!

Yes, the Moab Slickrock Trail was fun! We rode the loop one way, then turned around and rode it the other way. The next day, David went back out for more.

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Moab novice Jane eyes her mark.

On The Voyage of the Tramper, we have found many wonders we’d like to visit again someday. Moab is definitely one of them now, for me and for David! Future “Moab Mountain Bike Weekend”, anyone?

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David goes for the top, and makes it (of course!)

– Jane