Category Archives: Strange Sights

DAY 89 – 12/12/12 in New Orleans

On 10/10/10 we first visited New Orleans for a wedding and fell in love with the city. So it was kind of appropriate that we came back on 12/12/12.

Our first day in the Crescent City was a cold and damp one. We discovered on our previous visit that the best way to navigate around New Orleans was by bicycle. Rarely does less-than-ideal weather prevent us from our biking plan. So, off we went.

Roadway through the levee

Roadway through the levee

Getting a late start from our campsite at St Bernard State Park, we rode two ferries in, had lunch and visited the Insectarium, then rode two ferries out.

Missed that one! The ferry heads out across the Mississippi.

Missed that one! The ferry heads out across the Mississippi.

The ferries were necessary   because a bicycle can’t go over many of the Mississippi River bridges. The river snakes through New Orleans like the Grinch around a Christmas tree.

On the ferries, we had an opportunity to chat with some of the locals. We got some interesting inside info on the city, and Katrina.

Bikes and pedestrians only on this ferry.

Bikes and pedestrians only on this ferry.

In varied accents (Creole, Cajun, Southern and folks who talk just like me) we heard stories about the wrath of the storm seven years ago. Ginger spent several months in Georgia, away from her wrecked home.

A cold ride

A cold ride

The would-be river boat captain told a story about the flow of mighty Mississippi that day. The boilermaker, charming as could be, didn’t talk much about Katrina, but his love for his home was evident in his story about industry along the banks of the river.

In the Butterfly Room at the Insectarium in New Orleans. Butterflies fly around you and land on you!

In the Butterfly Room at the Insectarium in New Orleans. Butterflies fly around you and land on you!

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Moth display

Moth display

Back home via ferry

Back home via ferry

Day two dawned clear and sunny and quite a bit warmer. We took off on bikes again, skipping the fun but time-eating ferry and driving in to a cheap ($5.00 per day) parking lot just outside the French Quarter.

My daughter, having recently travelled to New Orleans, recommended Betsy’s Pancake House on Canal Street in the Mid City neighborhood.

12:12 on 12/12/12

12:12 on 12/12/12

Betsy’s was yummy. Grits and blueberry pancakes were consumed as the clock read 12:12 on 12/12/12!

Next up was City Park and the Singing Oak. It was magical, standing under the massive tree, hung with wind chimes of all sizes! All tuned to the pentatonic scale.

Here’s a better video of the Singing Oak:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2emTYIHg3bw

Checking out the Mayan art in the New Orleans Art Museum

Checking out the Mayan art in the New Orleans Art Museum

It being Wednesday, the New Orleans Museum of Art was free, so of course we checked it out.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANext up was a bicycle tour of the French Quarter. Bourbon street was hopping at two in the afternoon! The party, apparently, never ends.

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Jackson Square

Jackson Square

100_7323Lastly, we took refreshments at Cafe du Monde. Cups of Cafe au Lait were raised in memory of my dear mom, who loved the beignets and coffee so much she would visit the Cafe more than once on each visit to New Orleans.

On the way back to St Bernard park, we went over the Claiborne Street bridge.

Katrina's legacy.

Katrina’s legacy.

I had read about Brad Pitt’s work for Katrina victims and hoped that we would see some of the houses that his foundation is building.

We were strongly advised not to bike or drive around the Ninth Ward. The pale green house in the middle field is one of Brad Pitt's houses. Note the plethora of solar panels on the rebuilt houses!

We were strongly advised not to bike or drive around the Ninth Ward. The pale green house in the middle field is one of Brad Pitt’s houses. Note the plethora of solar panels on the rebuilt houses!

If you click on the bottom photo to open it, you can see the rebuilt Ninth Ward.

www.makeitright.org

– Jane

DAY 87 12/10/2012 The Travails of the day…

Leaving the free refuge of the Pensecola Walmart parking lot, we set out to try the Tramper at something new.  Riding a ferry in the Gulf from Fort Morgan to Fort Gaines below Mobile Alabama seemed like a fun coastal adventure.  A last-minute phone call nodded a no-go.  They weren’t accepting any trailers or RV’s today.  Drat!  Rolling along after packing up makes us think of “second-breakfast” sometimes, so when we saw the Coffee Cup Diner despite not having made it out of Pensacola yet, we parked out back. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI motioned to Jane as we cross the parking lot that we may be meeting our waitresses out back here while they seemed to be taking their smoke breaks.

Inside we found just our kind of place.  A broiling flame raged at the stove where the short-order cooks blazed through their lists of orders.  A simple menu praised the grits and on the wall was a sign: No Grits No Glory.  Jane went into the restroom to wash up, and as I sat down a new experience unfolded.  All around me smart phones started screeching and beeping.  They blasted a Tornado Warning!  Of course we don’t have a smart phone so there I was peeking over people’s shoulders, gleaning what I could and waiting for Jane.  One phone owner bragged about his last tornado while I tried to sort out my own reactions.

I still have more Tramper destinations.  There are still places to go, things to do.  Maybe the tramper attracted this thing as trailers so often do?  I have walked along the actual path of tornado destruction before and seen news descriptions.  Knowledge sometimes tells you exactly what to do; other times it tells you there’s nothing you can do.

By now Jane is out at our table.  We debate briefly whether to drive and hope we pick exactly the right time and direction, or stay put.  We stay and order coffee, grits and a biscuit.  There is a Bruce Cockburn song we love that goes: “If this were the last night of the world, what would I do that was different unless it were champagne with you?”  Today it was grits and good coffee; the waitress got a pretty good tip too!

Jane texted Debbie who used an iPad in Baltimore to check weather.  The warning was being lifted.  We heard the next day several unconfirmed twisters had touched down from Birmingham to Pensacola.  We didn’t see any.

The road later offered its own surprises.  Heavy traffic near Mobile and an accident in the light misty rain at a highway split.  The kind where our crawling column of traffic arrived just before the ambulance, only one cop had pulled up and the poor harried car was facing the wrong way showing its defaced, unrecognizable grill-less front end.  Boy do we count our blessings and lack of rush.

Later we rolled into a drenching, driving rain in Alabama.  The crowned road wasn’t enough to shed the torrent and I found myself glad to be rolling slowly with good tires all around and separate brakes on the trailer.

No more than half an hour later we coasted into a small town, Robertsdale, where we took note of the usual strip of stores, Advance Auto, Dollar General, Nail, and pawn shops.  By the second light I smelled transmission fluid.  Five seconds later Jane asks, “whats that smell?”OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Then the smoke!  Trying to block panic, I methodically look around for the right place to touch down.  I feel like a bush pilot, surveying the busy lots around where I would be in someone’s way or they in mine.  I pick a church on the right just in time to notice the transmission is shifting “differently“.  Shut it down, open the hood and EVERYTHING is soaked with boiling hot, red transmission fluid.  I can’t see a thing, can’t touch a thing, and can’t tell where all that red is coming from.  But there’s a steamy puddle growing on the ground already…

Yup, hood up as the universal sign “don’t tow me” and I advise Jane we will be entertaining ourselves for an hour while this thing cools.  I went and bought 4 quarts of Dexron, a roll of paper towels, box of rubber gloves, a bag of kitty litter and investigated the worst case price of a new radiator.  ~$240, and available within a few hours, I explain to Jane and the clerk that I probably won’t need it; it’s probably a transmission line going to the cooler up in the grill.   We also went to CVS for a little light shopping while the car continued to cool.

Of all the >100 mile off the beaten path places, all the night hours of driving, the rainy portions, and even the traffic jam this morning…our little 4Runner picked a town with 3 auto parts stores and “no grocer” to break down in.  Well, I have a paper suit just in case of these sorts of things.  (known as a bunny suit in the hospital world)

Where's-my-super-suit?

Where’s-my-super-suit?

Where is my super-suit?  Jane “what”?  Where-Is-My-Super-Suit?  (You’d have to have watched The Incredibles recently to get that reference).  So, I donned the paper suit, used half a roll of paper towels to dry everything, cleaned the front tires and found the culprit.  Whether I failed to tie the hoses down as well as I thought or the mechanic in New York accidentally knocked things loose doesn’t matter.

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The transmission line had risen above a critical height and been rubbed through by the fan.  Half an hour later and we were rolling safely again.  We determined to make it ALL THE WAY TO NEW ORLEANS.  Arriving the back way to St Bernard State Park at about 7:30 was of no concern to the ranger and we settled in for a quiet night in the Tramper.

– David

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An Open Letter To The Sunshine State

Dear Florida,

Thank you for a very nice two weeks. making-a-map-pictureYour weather was very nice. We met some very nice people. We were happy to swim in warm water.

You reminded me, with every palm tree, citrus stand and tacky souvenir shop, of my many trips to Florida as a young person. Thank you for that.

news feature_manatee_season_05_kws_1Also, I saw my first ever manatee. And an alligator that wasn’t in some sad little pen.

But, the most important thing that you have done and will, I hope, continue to do is take care of Alex and Daria and Zealen. I love that little family. Keep them safe.

Wilderness-Trail-webIf I might make what I feel to be constructive criticism, you really need some hills. And dirt. Some rocks maybe. Hiking and mountain biking would be so, so much more fun if you did.

I have to say that if I were a poor person, I would definitely want to live in Florida. I’m sure that being poor is a daunting challenge wherever you live, but in Florida, you hardly need any clothes. Baltimore poor folks have to somehow find a complete wardrobe. Summer clothes, yes, but also clothes for winter. Coats, hats, scarves, gloves, sweaters. Real shoes. Long pants.

Florida poor folks have only to outfit themselves with a pair of swim trunks, two pair of flip-flops from the Dollar store and a 4-pack of Hanes wife-beater undershirts. Male and female. And they are good for the whole year! 

floridagunAlso, you can carry your gun everywhere you go and shoot anything that moves,  for your supper. 

Again, thank you for showing us a good time.

Sincerely, 

Jane

 

DAY 86 – 12/09/2012 Cape San Blas, Florida

Florida is such a big state! We will be in the Sunshine State for another few days as we travel our slow, backroads pace, heading West. Before we left home, neighbor Leslie recommended a place on Florida’s Gulf Coast with white sand beaches and clear, blue-green water called Cape San Blas. (Funny, we thought she said “Sand Blast”. But even Florida would not name a place Sand Blast, would they?).

What?!

What?!

We stopped for some rest enroute to San Blas at a cute little festival in the town of Sopchoppy. (OK, maybe there could be a place in Florida called Sand Blast!). I saw my favorite Christmas blow-up of all time. Normally, I like them not at all, but who could resist a pop-up Santa?

I gave away the books I’d finished reading to a fellow traveller who reads 6 or 7 books a week.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

He and his wife do “something stupid”, as they call it, every 5 years or so. They drop everything and take off in their RV rig to wander. Sounds like a great plan!?

We believe!

We believe!

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Like!
Like!

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San Blas was everything we hoped it would be. Beautiful weather. Days in the upper 70’s. Evenings down to 60 or so. Gulf water warm enough to swim in. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPalm trees swaying in balmy breezes. Gulls, herons and pelicans whirling overhead and fishing the blue and green water of Eagle Harbor, on the bay side.

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They call this “The Forgotten Coast” and right now, I believe it because the campground is only half full. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the beach you may only see a couple of other people. Kayaking on the bay side we saw no one. And, Daria – you were so right about Florida’s Gulf Coast beaches. I’m not sure where I was 20 years ago when I was last here, but it sure wasn’t San Blas! It’s a great beach.

It’s an uncrowded paradise. A perfect little sojourn as we start thinking about skiing and camping in the snow. But, skiing is a long way off. Maybe 5 or 6 weeks. Meanwhile, we bask in the sun…

– Jane

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DAY 76 -11/29/2012 Solace for a cold

100_7184Leaving the idyllic Jekyll Island, I knew further rest was needed.  We sought refuge in a refuge of sorts.  We found a National Forest campground at East Delancy, Ocala National Forest.  Our National Parks Pass, picked up at Acadia, Maine levered us a $5 per night rate and there wasn’t another camper, tent or anyone in sight.  We silently filled out the envelope, added our five dollar bill, and didn’t even see the camp host til noon the next day.

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What I saw at dawn, or rather heard was of great delight.  Silence all night broken by an insane trumpeting from pairs of Sandhill Cranes.  I barely caught glimpses of them through the trees, but was afforded a range of tones, calls, and answers from their discussions.

Later in the day, I hung a hammock and found my own solace in Steinbeck’s East of Eden.  If you know me you’ll be surprised to hear I read about half of it in one day.  Half a book.  A real book!  I normally fall asleep after reading about 3-5 pages!  Even some of my most quoted reads lately take me two to three months to read.  Jane and I well knew “I was sick”.

Hammocks are uniquely able to support rest in many positions and fold over lots of book-propping options.   I look forward to our next restful campsite with just the right paired trees.  Thanks Jack the hammock and book donor!

– David