Tag Archives: scenic beauty

DAY 39 – 10/23/2012 – Beached! In which the truck fails…

Posted on October 23, 2012 | 7 comments

I just put a pan of Toll House bars in the oven. There’s laundry drying in the shower and the rice and beans leftovers are stowed away.

It’s day two in the Creekview Campground in Rosendale, NY. We’ll be here for a while. Maybe another week.

The 4Runner blew a head gasket on Sunday night. It sits idle on the campsite, waiting for attention.

It’s just another adventure on the Tramper Voyage, sort of “Little House on the Prairie” style! It’s ironic that right now I’m reading A Painted House by John Grisham. It’s not his usual tense legal drama but rather a story based on his own childhood in rural Arkansas in the ’50’s. There aren’t many modern amenities. Hard, hand labor is the order of the day.

While we do have Internet and cell phones we have no microwave, dishwasher or washing machine. The water reservoir must be filled daily. Hot water is produced only after we turn on the water heater, powered by propane which, in turn, also has to be refilled. So, compared with our former lifestyle, we are somewhat roughing it in a small trailer. And, it’s raining which keeps us inside.

But, it could be worse. A whole lot worse.

On Sunday evening, we were finishing a day of driving after a nice hike up Monument Mountain near Great Barrington, MA.

Here's the gully that I dropped David's camera into while on our Monument Mountain hike. The camera dropped, I screamed. It bounced, I screamed again. Bounce. Scream. Bounce. Scream. Then, splash! into a stream. I think it's dead... but it had a good 10 year run.

Here’s the gully that I dropped David’s camera into while on our Monument Mountain hike. The camera dropped, I screamed. It bounced, I screamed again. Bounce. Scream. Bounce. Scream. Then, splash! into a stream. I think it’s dead… but it had a good 10 year run.

We had arrived in the Shawangunks region of New York state and thinking about where to park the Tramper for the night.

There was a description of a nearby trailhead parking lot that sounded good (and free). But, the Shawangunk mountains are a playground for New York City and the trailhead lots were crowded with rock climbers on this beautiful October Sunday. Also, we encountered a tremendous traffic jam outside New Paltz. Everyone was headed toward the interstate back to the city.

Sunset in New York, with the car thunk-thunking.

Sunset in New York, with the car thunk-thunking.

So, we opted to head for a small campground instead. The truck, by this time, was starting to run very rough. The trailhead was on a mountain. The campground was in the valley. We chose the campground, just a few miles away. Good thing we did!

It was full dark when we pulled in. The truck was overheating but managed to pull us into a campsite. We met the manager (or maybe he’s the owner), paid for the night and settled in.

David soon determined that the truck had blown a head gasket. Oy! It will require a pretty big repair. David has spent the last two days on the phone and online, trying to figure this all out. I’ve been mostly reading and washing things. And baking those cookie bars which are now cooling in their pan. The Tramper smells delicious and is nice and warm.

The Creekside is a small independent operation. Maybe a dozen campsites. Hot showers, flush toilets (I know! Sorry! I try not to mention the ‘t’ word much but it’s a reality!) and electric and water hookup for the Tramper. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABill, the manager/owner said he stopped selling firewood a few years back. He didn’t want to deal with collecting the sales tax. He’s a bit of a curmudgeon but he adds local color and is giving us a nice weekly rate.

We landed in a pretty good spot! Imagine if we had opted for the trailhead. Life would be a lot less cushy right now.

My good friend Donna gave me this lamp years ago. It makes a nice glow at night.

My good friend Donna gave me this lamp years ago. It makes a nice glow at night.

There would probably be no cell phone or internet service on the mountain either, even with our hotspot. We’ve run into that situation many times on our trip. Lack of these services would have made it very difficult for David to get help with the 4Runner. Not impossible, just more difficult.

So now, we wait. And hang out in the trailer. It’s very cozy and comfortable in here. The renovations that David did are holding up very nicely! In some ways, it’s easier to live here. There are different chores but a lot fewer chores than at home. Life is simpler and sweet.

Yummy maple syrup we enjoyed on our pancakes this morning. Purchased from Matt, the nice shoe salesperson we met back in Maine

Yummy maple syrup we enjoyed on our pancakes this morning. Purchased from Matt, the nice shoe salesperson we met back in Maine

Tomorrow, AAA will come and tow the poor 4Runner to a shop in nearby New Paltz. David’s been talking with a guy in an auto shop there. David has a talent for establishing an instant rapport with people and the guy seems to want to help us out. Not a discounted-price kind of helping us out. But, he’s sympathetic and maybe won’t rip us off. Fingers crossed!

Now the bars are ready to eat…

– Jane

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI outlined nearly this exact scenario when we were “truck shopping”.  No amount of prep can eliminate all risk.  When buying the ’95 4Runner for 2 grand I stated, even if we blow the head gasket or transmission, we may just have to throw another thousand at it.  We’ll just meet some new people and settle in biking and waiting.  If you recall the “blacksmith’s hammer” of pre-ignition, it is pinging that likely killed the poor head gasket on the anvil of mountain climbs and sometimes highway paces.  Fortunately, Toyota has a revised MLS, Multi-Layer Steel gaskets that reportedly hold up better.  I wish the truck were nestled in my own garage where I would disassemble, measure and repair everything with the help of a local machine shop…but I won’t be dropping bolts on the ground here where the weather could change overnight and it’s raining right now.

I always believe our problems are only as big as our hysteria.  Sometimes, I almost think I like it when I have trouble.  No, I don’t really like problems, but have always enjoyed a methodical reaction.

In my teens I was on a school bus shuttling skiers to the Trailside Lodge in Vermont.  When it became stuck on ice, sliding slightly into a shallow ditch nearly everyone sat still worrying about being late for dinner.  Even though I knew I couldn’t budge the thing by pushing, I went out, walked around for a look.  I managed to direct a few willing strangers and a friend to lay branches under the wheels in the culvert, then safely orchestrated pushing and rocking from our team to free the bus.  Thought and caution are good reactions.

We will sort this out.  (At least it is not ruining a treasured one-week vacation) And, who better to be stuck with? ..than Jane

– David

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DAY 29 – 10/13/2012 Acadia National Park

Posted on October 16, 2012 | 2 comments

I think I know how I would describe the difference between two of Maine’s parks that we’ve visited – Baxter State Park and Acadia National Park.

Beautiful Acadia

Beautiful Acadia

We’ve been to both very recently. They look somewhat different. Baxter has taller mountains and Acadia is by the ocean. I say ‘somewhat different’ because they are, after all, in the same state and not all that far from each other. Less than 200 miles. So the vegetation looks quite similar and both have a lot of rocks.

But, in other ways they are very different. Baxter is a vast, undeveloped wilderness. You can lose yourself in the wild for a long time. (But, of course, the rangers still need to know where you’re going and for how long. If you go missing they will eventually start looking for you. And probably charge you for the expensive search process!)

imagesAcadia, on the other hand, is a great, happy playground for grown ups! It’s quite beautiful, like Baxter, and they try to keep it as wild as possible. But there are hundreds of well-marked and well-used trails to hike.

On the Acadia Carriage Roads

On the Acadia Carriage Roads

At Eagle Lake in Acadia

At Eagle Lake in Acadia

Many, many miles of carriage roads to bike on. Rock climbs to scramble and rock climbs on which to use your advanced skills and ropes.

Lakes, streams, ponds and brooks abound. There’s a sand beach and long, rocky shores to explore.

Giant cruise ship in Frenchman's Bay

Giant cruise ship in Frenchman’s Bay

You can fly over, helicopter over, sail around and drive around all the scenic areas in Acadia.

People take charter buses and even cruise ships to get there. Nothing is really inaccessible. And, it’s so much fun! All the happy vacationers at Acadia are friendly and relaxed – because they’re at the playground!

Another beautiful, rocky trail. See that blue mark? That's the way up and over left!

Another beautiful, rocky trail. See that blue mark? That’s the way up and over left!

Oh, there are friendly people at Baxter also. But, when you come across a person at Baxter, you greet each other almost with surprise. “Oh, look, another person!”

In Acadia, people abound. And it’s lovely. Maine is a place that we travel to quite a bit so we’ll be going back to Acadia, taking some nieces with us!

– Jane

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Posted in DAY posts, Hiking, Maps, Mountain biking

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Day 26, 10/10/2012 Baxter State Park, Maine

Posted on October 13, 2012 | 8 comments

DAY 26 – 10/10/2012 Baxter State park, ME (Trout Run Camping Area)

My first foray out in the dawn was frosty and special.  Each and every blade of grass, leaf, blossom, pine needle, and every acre of Fall-tinged wildflowers were delicately iced with sparkling frost in the severe blue morning light.  Even the now-trusty 4Runner was frosted.  I wandered around quietly taking macro pictures to share until I had to retreat and make our first coffee.

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

We did move at our relaxed morning pace, had the truck unhitched and driving to a trailhead to start just before 10.

We selected a tough climb, circuit hike with a suggested turn-back spot to help us decide how much to bite off.  Nearly the entire climb was talus, loose boulders, small cliffs and crags requiring at least three limbs climbing.

Jane "making" one of the harder bits

Jane “making” one of the harder bits

The valley was at 1000′ above sea level, while the top of what we ended up scaling was at 3254.  The climb was perhaps the steepest at this end of the park and provided ample bouldering, scampering and ultimately whimpering until the summit of the main ridge gave us a view of the whole park South and the weather on its way in.  “40 percent chance of showers” never stops us from starting what we hope to do each day.  (Can’t tell you how many great rides, hikes, and overall trips we’ve had despite nay-saying weather forecasts.)

100_7074We chose to turn back for the bottom where we started (had hiked 4 point-some miles of the 10.4 we had intended), because the next 2 miles forward were the most exposed, above tree line portion where there has been snow and ice already this week.  And so, settled for a SAFE and successful 8 mile, out-and-back instead of a questionable circuit into weather and late afternoon.  We have youthful desires and energy, but no bull-headed “egos” to push us beyond the bounds of safety.  We knew going downhill on WET or snowy rocks, particularly in the dark would not be smart.  Arriving back at the car at 3:30 spent plenty of our energy as our rubber legs begged for rest and dinner.

 

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"Here comes the weather..."

“Here comes the weather…”

What an oasis is the Tramper.  Radiant heat is immediate, we were never cold as OJ, peanut butter and jelly gave the energy to make our actual dinner.

– David

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DAY 25 – 10/9/2012 Fredericton, N.B. to Baxter State Park, ME

Posted on October 12, 2012 | 13 comments

We were reluctant to leave David’s cousin Gordon and his girlfriend, Jackie, in Fredericton, New Brunswick, but also, we were eager to continue the Tramper Voyage.

Gordon is as gracious as he can be. We felt very welcome in his home.

Gordon and Jackie's lovely garden

Gordon and Jackie’s lovely garden

He’s very fit and active into his seventies so we really enjoyed hiking with him. David hadn’t seen Gordon for many years and we’d never met Jackie but we were warm friends right away. I love it when that happens!!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust before crossing the border, we saw a sign for the World’s Largest Axe in Nackawic, N.B. Naturally, we had to go see it! My daughter always finds fun, funky things while on the road. The World’s Largest Chest of Drawers, Foam-henge, etc. Visiting the Axe was a must.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Funny story about the border crossing. Not as funny as the Bay of Fundy Aunt Margaret story but sort of odd. We forgot to pack our passports when we left Baltimore. You might think this was an epic fail, but I was only one day post-biopsy when we left. The anesthesia had barely worn off. Also, David had a whirlwind 2 weeks getting the 4Runner ready after the neighbor’s Land Cruiser proved to have too many problems to be a good Tramper puller. Every day in port was a wasted day of the Tramper Voyage!

So, our leave-taking from Baltimore was, you might say, a bit rushed. Months of planning, one day of shoving everything in.

We had no passports. We had forgotten to pack the passports! No problem. Yet. Olivia mailed them to Augusta, Maine to my brother. Only, they had expired in March. Also, we were unaware that, in 2009, the border-crossing rules had changed. You needed a passport to get back into the U.S.

Even though a USPS official in Augusta told us that, with his official stamped and signed photocopies of our passports we would be able to get back in, we held our breath a bit when we passed through US Customs. You can’t hold your breath too much, however, because you don’t want to raise any red flags with the Border Patrol.

imagesWe tried to look and sound normal and I guess we succeeded because the very nice officer waved us back in to the U.S.! Phew!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

As the sun was setting, we drove into the magnificent Baxter State Park. It is 200,000 acres of unspoiled land in North Central Maine.

100_7102Most of the land surrounding Baxter is pretty empty as well. Baxter, unlike other  state parks, does not have camper hookups, electricity or running water.

100_7053The campsites are few and primitive . Only a couple of gravel of roads run through the park. It is entered by only 2 gates, at the Northeast border and at the Southern border.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

We parked the Tramper in a large meadow as darkness fell. We turned out the lights and the stars were extravagant and amazing! The woods were completely quiet and dark. I stepped outside again in the middle of the night and there were the big, sparkling stars again, even brighter than before.

By this time it was quite cold but I could not go back inside until I drank in more of the quiet beauty of the deep Baxter night.

-Jane

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DAY 20 – 10/4/2012 somewhere in the Maine Woods, in which we see a moose!

Posted on October 4, 2012 | 3 comments

Impossibly tall, with an appearance at once majestic and goofy, we rounded a corner and saw a Moose! On bikes on the logging road, we were about 40 yards away. We knew he was a boy – he had a beautiful rack of antlers. Agog, we could barely get the camera out for a few photos as he stalked away into the trees. We’ve never been in close proximity to a moose before – just distant glimpses in Wyoming.

We had set up camp on a wooded rise at the confluence of Machias River and the West Branch of the Machias. This night, we were in an actual campsite. It was about 5 miles into the woods on the dirt logging road. But the campsite was completely deserted at this time of year except for us and the birds and chipmunks. After our moose bike ride, we put the kayak in the Machias at our camp.

I used to do sprint-distance triathlons. Doing two out of the three sports in a training session was called a ‘brick’. So, on this day in the beautiful wilds of Maine, our brick was a bike ride and paddle.

Gratitude was the overriding emotion of the day for me. I am grateful that, after the cancer ordeal, here I am, in this beautiful place far from civilization. I’m also so grateful for my wonderful husband, who really made this possible. We’re just ordinary middle-class people. Yet we were able to stop working for awhile and go off into the woods. Absolutely priceless!

We don’t shoot the rapids. We only paddle up to take the picture of the rapids!

– Jane

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Posted in DAY posts, Mountain biking, Wildlife

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