Tag Archives: David

DAY 70, 11/23/2012 John’s Deer

We were lucky enough last night to stumble into a great spot in Oconee National Forest.  The first dirt road we walked into had a group of trailers and hunters who looked settled for Thanksgiving weekend.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOf course, the reason we walk in first is to secure the requisite privacy but also to ensure that I can turn the Tramper-Truck combo around with reasonable ease.

Right about when we had leveled the trailer and were ready to start our fire, a visitor from a nearby campsite drove up.  He was very gracious and quick to allay our fears that we had parked on private property not National Forest.  He was here to hunt and wondered in which direction we’d be hunting!

John gave us a few nice logs from the bed of his pickup for our fire.  We shared a delightful couple hours, looked at pictures of his 4 year old son Wesley, videos of his ski boat planing out at 60 mph, and a competition mud truck he had built.  Just plain fun guy-talking.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Later, in the lovely quiet of a forest dark, we heard rustling ever nearer and nearer the fire. After several hours of this and noting the rustling had been downhill to the left, but later heard way off right, I had to investigate.  First I used the super-bright flashlight, but it revealed no pair of eyes to give away location.  Before the fire died down I grabbed a stick (har har) and walked a bit closer to figure this little rustling thing out.  Well, I think it noticed I was getting closer and it scampered right across the dirt road below the gate.  I had surprised an opossum, so I let him or her continue on their nocturnal way.

In the morning as we were driving out the little dirt road, we stopped at John’s campsite.  He was dressing a dear from his successful dawn hunt.  I am no stranger to anatomy and visited for a bit before we continued.  I know you can’t sell deer meat, but sure had to work hard not to offer to buy some.  Venison sure would have been delicious!

David helped. Jane stayed in the car.

David helped. Jane stayed in the car.

– David

DAY 68 11/21/2012 We are in Georgia (Jaw-ja) Now!

After the relaxing walk enjoying Foxfire (see Jane’s post), we needed a place to camp.  Seems like a theme doesn’t it?  Soon, we’ll slow down and camp in one place for more than one day and do trips from that base.  But this night, just before sundown, we crawled the 4Runner up a perilously steep and narrow road leading into Black Rock Mountain State Park.  I even drove right past the gate sign that read “campground full”,  on up to the 3640 ft summit where a narrow campground was perched.

The tradition for RV places is to drive around the loop once and select your site to back or pull into on the next lap.  I often don’t like this, preferring to park and walk through.  Right away, the camp host drove over in his golf cart.  Even in this busy park I “was in luck if I only wanted one night”.  Allen showed us which sites we could choose from and then offered us turkey dinner.  My brief polite refusals were met with insistence.  Jane and I were, of course, hungry.  Not bike or hike hungry, but dinner was on our minds just the same!  My final denial, was met by Allen saying “now don’t you all be hateful”  “sit right down and fix yourself plate of this”.  The freshly cooked turkey, baked beans and biscuits were a delight as the early chill of darkness commenced.

Jane and I were still in single layer long sleeves and not too cold, but laughed later to note some college co-ed campers in hats, gloves, snow pants and parkas.  Kind of reminded us of when we see Maine-ers not wearing a coat while we get cold, except we were the ones who didn’t need extra layers.

Nice time to wake up

Nice time to wake up

Sunrise beginning to look like a volcano. I had no idea exactly where it would rise so this was a nice surprise

Sunrise beginning to look like a volcano. I had no idea exactly where it would rise so this was a nice surprise

My day started in time to take pictures of sunrise from our campsite.  The hardest task is to decide which one to post, so I picked three.

What a way to start the day!

What a way to start the day!

I almost made a “slideshow” of dozens and posted that.  After crawling back to a warm bed until 8, we got up, feasted on eggs-in-a-hat and planned our hike.  It has gotten noticeably warmer as we move South.  The sleeping bag-as-quilt is too warm now, and we’ve noticed massive Rhododendron that seem to have set a second set of blossoms.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The James Edmund Trail had come up in at least 3 prior conversations so we figured it would be a scenic challenge.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A view from the trail

A view from the trail

Jane has really built herself some trail legs, hardly stopping throughout our 4 and 1/2 hour hike.  Metrics: a little over 7 miles including 2290′ of ascent, and 1995′ of descent bely the nice feel of the trail.  We both still prefer going up to walking downhill, even if it is a little faster.  Our boots are getting some use and the single pair of trekking poles are presenting their own pros and cons.  (I use ’em like ski poles a lot going down making turns all the while.)

Awe in the sanctuary of nature...

Awe in the sanctuary of nature…

The trail drops down into a valley, climbs to Lookoff Mt, drops down in again, then has to climb all the way back up onto Black Rock Mountain. The peanut butter and jelly feast at the Overlook at Lookoff Mt was a feast topped off with clear cold water.  Boy, we are LIVING!

– David

DAY 64 11/17/2012 Museum of the Cherokee Indian

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI will do my best to avoid scolding all of us for a history that is past and cannot be changed.  As heard anecdotally, we should learn from our history, to avoid the same mistakes.  “Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it” George Santayana.  

During undergrad at Essex Community College I attended a wonderful class called the Sacred Art of Indigenous Cultures, taught concurrently by two instructors.  Each was equally intelligent and credible, but they often contradicted each other emphasizing that study of history, fossil or fragmented remains, and artworks leaves something to the individual to interpret.  Interpretations change from person to person and from time to time.  Kind of reminds me that when I was a kid, the Indian was a fierce savage and the Cowboy was clearly portrayed as the good guy.  Later, we seem to deify the indian and wish we could live in half their harmony.  Even that 1971 “Crying Indian” commercial with Native American in the canoe paddling through an industrialized river with a tear in his eye sits heavy on my memory…Maybe thats part of why I still don’t litter?

We, of course, were all curious about this museum.  Horses, arrows, pottery, tepees, buffalo, turquoise, harmony, feathers and all.  Yes, there must be beautiful sights for us to see.  The Museum too tries not to scold us.  The town of Cherokee seems  to broadcast two messages:  1)Transformation Through Forgiveness and 2)Unity!  WOW.  Gandhi right here in America.  Like Martin Luther King – peace under violent oppression.  All of the most admirable traits of religion and philosophy lead this way.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere is a traveling Cherokee sculpture to spread the message of forgiveness.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAEven the rail-trail graffiti was encouraging.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

 

 

 

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe museum was informative and led us through exhibits following a timeline.

The Paleo period 13,000-10,000 years ago showed the stone tools and spears of earliest Americans, Cherokee ancestors.

The Archaic and Mississippian periods from 10,000 to merely 500 years ago saw improvements in climate, leading to easier hunting, agriculture and “more free time” allowing the beauty of daily tools, pottery, baskets and adornment.  Much of our impression of the Cherokee, of course is “post-contact” as we could only chronicle what our culture was there to see.  Square foundation houses, meeting halls, sweat lodges look like any pioneer period you’d expect.

Of course the trend accelerated by about 1540.  Settlers poured in faster than they could forge a life of their own.  De Soto brought Spanish explorers in search of gold and riches, but brought disease and decimation also.  Despite an open-hearted welcome, coexistence was not to be.  In 1762 as emissaries of peace, Chief Ostenaco went with several other Cherokee leaders to England to meet King George III and declared mutual peace along with allegiance to the King.  A proclamation was sent back to British settlers to allow Cherokee to continue their ways unfettered.

Probably the real death knell was the American Revolution when this edict was repeatedly ignored as settlers demanded land and moved into the best territories.  Against the recommendations of statesmen such as Henry Clay, Daniel Webster, Davy Crockett the government enacted the Indian Removal Act of 1830.  By 1838 the U.S. forcibly exiled the remaining Eastern Band of the Cherokee.

Approximately 16,000 Cherokees were moved into pathetic stockades in groups of 1,000 beginning in the spring of 1837 and continuing throughout the fall the following year. Under the command of General Winfield Scott, the Cherokee were driven west by 7,000 soldiers and volunteers. Some in covered wagons, but most walking with little more than shared blankets as their only protection.  An estimated 4,000 Cherokee Indians died during the almost 200-day “Trail of Tears” by disease, malnutrition and exposure.  They were afforded no privacy, no sanitation, meager food, and slept in groups on the ground between daily forced marches.

Over 30 treaties were inflicted on the people from 1684 to 1835.  A final deal of $5 million in compensation and 13 million acres in what is now Oklahoma was closed by  Andrew Jackson despite admitting an Indian saved his life once, as he signed the final removal papers.

We are familiar with other reservation photographic policies from powwows and previous travels.  Out of respect we took no pictures inside the Museum, If you would like to see them, everything is available on their website.

www.cherokeemuseum.org

Before we went in, Jane and I hung our heads down half jokingly.  But, near the end of my tour, I cried.  It seemed like a good deep cry, I wasn’t really witness to the indignities but empathize.  I think I am MOST relieved to see the town’s peaceful messages as direction for the rest of the world.

– David

What was the best thing about the trip so far? “Questions while visiting home”

When we visited family and friends in Baltimore a local friend posed the question; “what was the best thing about the trip so far?”

While thinking about my reply, my mind whirled through visions from the “road movie”.  I thought about deep clear rivers, green forests, panoramic foliage, skies as blue as Sept 11 and  broader than I could turn my head.  I thought about the mountains I so love.  The roaring little creek where we beached the kayak and sat still and silent for twenty minutes (me too, really!) and cried at the beauty combined with the privilege to view it.  Then, before I spoke, I realized the greatest part.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATrying not to sound perfunctory or patronizing I managed to form a sentence.  The best part is the relationship and flow that Jane and I have formed with each other and the Tramper.  Our symbiosis with every system is evolving as we create a system for every daily task.  We “really like each other” as an observer asked about spending time in the small space.  We LOVE each other these 14 years into our marriage.  In fact, this time has us closer than ever.  We do nearly everything together, 24 hours a day.  It feels odd to run an errand without the other. We like it!  We reeaally like it! (Jean-Philippe and Anne know how to pronounce that)

The systems requirement comes from the space and the road.  We just don’t have room to leave anything unfinished.  Every shoe, every type of clothing has a place now.  We are packed for 4 seasons, downhill skis, cross country skis, Mt Bikes, kayak, hiking boots all take up space and could be in the way.  We could each tell you how many shirts, long and short sleeve, pants, underwear and socks we have.  Daily tasks, sleeping, cooking, cleaning, changing, getting water,  all take on new meaning in this rig.  Monitoring all power use, solar gain, water use, food intake, money spent all create an awareness we hope follows us home.

How should we start our day?

How should we start our day?

TWO OTHER CRUCIAL LESSONS HAVE SURFACED TOO:

The Earth is still very much alive and beautiful.  The skies and seas blue, and the myriad of beauty thrives wherever you look.  Leave the towns, get a mile off of a parking lot, look up and we are all still blessed with a miraculous universe and a world of wonder, mysteries and room for a curiosity that fills a life daily.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPeople are Wonderful!   There is kindness, help, warmth everywhere we look.  Even the places we weren’t looking.  Strangers all seem interested in the Voyage.  It seems every day someone is telling us they have a contact or friend further down our journey.  Today a “stranger” showed me pictures of his farm and home, opening his doors to us “any time we get out that way”.  I wish I could communicate the soft and wonderful net that is out there if you step away from the familiar.  This country is full of WONDERFUL PEOPLE!  Writing now I shed tears at the desperation I didn’t look at until we started away from our house. (traffic and daily news breed an underlying mistrust we keep under our surface, why else does someone blow up so easily at little things?)

– David

15274_4776269974893_1449845499_n

DAY 57 11/10/2012 How far South are We?

All my Baltimore life I’ve heard the standard axiom that Maryland is little America.  “Yes, just drive three hours West to the mountains or three East to the ocean.  You can reach everything from here”.    Years later I’ve made observations of my own.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust drive three hours north and you reach New York, the bustle, Times Square, Broadway, theaters, and all they have to offer.  Then when you drive three hours South, folks ask; “How y’all doing?”, and they wait for a real answer.  They really want to know.  It’s still that way.

When we awoke here in Waynesboro Virginia without a plan, the good and possibly renowned  outfitter, Rockfish Gap seemed the place to go for our morning question:  Where should we go today?  The clerks directed us to a knowledgeable bearded customer, Tony who rifled through the maps in the store rack.

Witch Hazel in bloom in a sheltered valley

Witch Hazel in bloom in a sheltered valley

He pointed out hikes of varied lengths and types,  showing us where the most hunters would be and trying to ensure we’d have a good time.  He added that we could be using retired “Smartwater” bottle instead of the 2 new Nalgene bottles I picked up in the store.  I mentioned something of helping with business economy in my usual fashion, now forgetting our own newly chosen economy, which, without jobs, clearly goes only one way.

We picked a modest hike off the Blue Ridge Parkway OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand after a few miles and some elevation gains, saw evidence of the snows from Sandy and the Nor’Easter.  Yup, there was a faceless snowman to greet us.   OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur hike did its elevating job on our legs as we found ourselves thinking about a meal.

We rolled carefully down a switchbacked mountain road Eastward off of the Blue Ridge Parkway seeking a campground called Montibello.  The store was open, we hoped to check in after our nice rocky hike, but the clerk informed us the campground was closed for the season.  I had just started my response that we didn’t need hookups or anything and she reached for the phone.  Our friendly Southern cashier was calling ahead to another campground she knew to be open.

Dave and Sue run a nice little place called Crabtree Falls Campground where we were happy to pay the nice country fee of $26.  Many bigger sites charge over $35 and this in part is why we “camp” in some of the strange places we use.  Every dollar saved could be another day on our voyage.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOnly Dave was there to register and greet us.  He and I could have talked another hour if that hiker-hunger weren’t simmering in my belly and Jane was waiting in the Tramper.

The next day, Dave had more questions about the Tramper.  His avionics mechanic background coupled with his Mt Bike and snowboard social ways again led to timeless shared joy.  I love to talk about things, learn about things, laugh with these great people we are meeting on the road!  Before long, unprompted, Dave responded to our voyage by pulling a $20 back out of the register and “investing” in our trip’s future by refunding most of the camping fee!   Jane and I were baffled, complimented, nearly cried and could only say THANK YOU Dave!

– David

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

At Crabtree Falls Campground, Tyro, VA