Day 22 10/6/2012 Our Tremendous Quebecois’

In life you sometimes meet someone, totally by chance or maybe at work, who YOU KNOW YOU WILL KEEP IN YOUR LIFE!  I was mountain biking one winter day about 8 years ago, and as I headed out of the woods I was surprised to meet another rider. He seemed more surprised to see me…there was 3″ of snow on the ground and he was Canadian (favoring the blue and white Fleur de Lis flag of Quebec, not the “maple leaf”).   Who in Maryland would bike in the snow?  Well, his name turned out to be Jean-Philippe. His wife Anne was in Baltimore for our famous Hopkins and Hubble Space Telescope.  J-P and Anne’s 31/2 year contract in Baltimore flew as Texas became the next place to work (it won over Vancouver, Hawaii and some other renowned telescopes).  We, of course, strive to share our fondness staying in touch (emails, calls….infrequent by busy-ness, but always greeted with the same gracious response).  These friends never scold for timing or say “you never call” or “you should call more”…we just take up at the moment.  Grateful for those around us, sometimes surprised by the resonance of reception.  Surprised by what they see in kind?100_6957

 

One of our survival techniques, a way to see as much of them as possible, has been to ski or vacation together.  In Feb-Mar 2011 we met them and shared an incredible week in a rented ski chalet in Utah.  Skiing with them at Brighton, Snowbird and Solitude won’t be forgotten.  But that is another little set of stories.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis day we arrived to meet Anne and Jean-Philippe in Moncton at the Riverview Walk and flushed a pheasant from the rushes where he lay.  The river there seems to be tidal also, but its hard to imagine this being so many miles inland from the bay.  The muddy tall banks confirmed it as we walked to find a brew pub in a new town.  Neither they nor we had ever been into Moncton.  The Oktoberfest menu lured us to try Bratwurst and “Keg-conditioned” (probably small-batch) ale.  Yummy enough (for beer, as I am not the biggest fan, drinking only about 4 or 5 glasses per year), smooth and well picked.  The food was good too, although we perhaps forgot to take a picture to share.

We spent the eve catching up and went to bed fairly early after all.  The Hopewell Rocks and Fundy National Park lay ahead.  Even though I warned J-P and Anne about my highway speeds, they still seemed to have to work hard to keep slowing down to my crawl.  Flashers on and the occasional car stuck between us did not impede our safe bobbing arrival.

Fundy flora

Fundy flora

The rocks lay off the shore in the Bay of Fundy, where the tide and thousands of years have formed awesome erosion patterns (and worth the admission figures for throngs of people over time).  The areas and economies brighten as you near the entrance, signs and attractions pop up miles before…then, there you have it: One gate to pass through then some very well-kept trails and viewpoints marking centuries of inhabitants and tourists.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe “flower-pot rocks” are several hundred feet tall, named by their appearance as trees and grasses sprout at the tops, while necks and narrow cliffs and caves are formed by the tides and icing of time.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnne so graciously treated our camping and National Park admissions as we arrived in Fundy Provincial Parc enough before dark to enjoy setting up camp before dark then relaxing around a fire.

 

Life clings where it can. The seaweed has tiny bladders filled with air that make it float when the tide comes in.

Life clings where it can. The seaweed has tiny bladders filled with air that make it float when the tide comes in.

Jean-Philippe hasn’t been REAL camping for years.  In Texas, he’s lucky to set up a tent near one tree and they don’t allow fires.  We had the traditional hours of watching and tending a nice fire before wind change and smoke chased us to bed.

– David

 

J-P's campfire

J-P’s campfire

Loose Ends, or – things we meant to post but somehow skipped…

1. ANDREW:

I’m not quite sure how but Andrew didn’t show in any of the pics from our visit to Stagge’s in and around Augusta. So, I’m correcting that with this photo. Andrew is one month older than my daughter and is beloved by everyone because he is smart, funny and kind. He is carving out a life for himself and his wife and baby on a rural family ‘compound’ in Farmingdale, Maine. We’re proud of him and I’m so glad to show him off here. BTW – the sleeping angel he’s holding is my grand-niece, Grace. She’s walking now and bumbling into things – as evidenced by the ow-ey on her forehead. She’s also starting to babble and ‘reads’ books to herself. SO cute!

2. FOX HILL

On a lonely logging highway in Maine called the Airline Road, we stopped for gas and postcards at a small cafe called Fox Hill General Store and Snack Bar. We spent a good deal of time here, blogging and sampling the excellent baked goods.

We chatted with the owner, Tina. She just opened the store very recently. A brave thing to do in such a wild place but she had customers coming in and out the entire time we were there. We bought some local potatoes and Mac apples, wished her well and were on our way.

3.  A LITTLE BAY OF FUNDY STORY

Probably in the 1970’s my grandmother and her sister, Aunt Margaret, took a sightseeing tour of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. The trip included crossing the Bay of Fundy, a Canadian natural wonder with extreme tide changes. I was never sure whether the tide changed caused the rough seas or if there was a big storm but the ship was tossed and rocking. Aunt Margaret was in the loo, which was entered by a door on the main deck. My grandmother waited at the rail outside. Suddenly, the ship lurched violently, tilting precariously. The door to the bathroom flew open and out skittered Aunt Margaret, panties around her knees. I’m sure she hoofed it back in as fast as she could but not before entertaining the onlookers.

For the rest of her life, my grandmother could not tell this story without dissolving into laughter, taking the rest of us with her.

– Jane

Day 21 10/5/2012

Written Day 21,

On the road again.  we are “forced” to take a big highway, Canadian 1, across from Maine to Sackville, New Brunswick.  There seem to be no small secondary roads connecting.  Old route 1 is being replaced, apparently the highway is to be ready early and below budget.  Huh, what about THAT?!  Doesn’t seem like that would happen at home.  The few old parts of 1 we drive make US wish the new road weren’t going in. Where it is old, it is small and quaint;just what we like.   Where it has been completed, it is a monument to a smooth, wide consistent road capable of Winter maintenance in a place like this and allowing an easy 100kph for anything but our little V-6 4Runner with the big Tramper in tow.   Ah, the flashers on the uphills as it drops to 40 mph.

We thought today was a long driving day and likely to carry us to our friends, then we recall they have a reunion of their own.  J-P is finishing out some projects in Texas through January, while Anne has assumed a teaching job in New Brunswick.  Today, Jean-Philippe arrives in Canada.  We should at least wait til tomorrow.

Black Harbor became our accidental tourist stop.  The highway offered a blue sign with a “?”, the international symbol for tourist information.  After 6-8 miles down a side road we felt misled, then, there at the bottom of a near dead end road on a peninsula, was another “?” sign.  The Information center door was, “of course” locked and as we walked away a gracious employee from the store next door, leaving for the day, came back from his car to offer us a hand.  He asked if we wanted some help.  Then we went into the same building through the next door, into a yarn and knitting store.  There too was another gracious employee, offering anything they had.  Snacks, yarn, BEAUTIFUL knit goods, truly useful and real woolen wares.  It was VERY HARD not to buy some neat things, some warm things, something for Olivia, something for Jane…but we can only travel til the money runs out.  We need to try to be frugal…food, gas, shelter costs won’t relent much.

We bumbled upon the New River Campground and Park on the Bay of Fundy as I thought…does this part of the bay have that big tide change.  Checking in at the campground I saw the high and low tide times posted.  ….maybe?  Next, after paying up for the night I asked how much the tide changed here?  In feet, or meters?  8 meters.  8 meters!  Wow, this is really on That bay.  We checked in, parked at a nice site and walked over to the beach area.  Off to the left of the point was a rocky area with a steep drop more that 28 feet.  Perhaps, just as odd was the 200 yard stretch of sandy beach that also represented the depth change.  We couldn’t help but look back at where we would run if the tide rushed in.  Jane dipped her feet into the bay, small waves broke as evening darkened and we decided to go cook something.  We fried some “salted cod” we had bought.  willing to try anything we sat and ate.  Soon I realized the salty, salty, salty meal would be an emetic and we both decided to eat no more.  I guess we’ll have to google how people prepare this stuff.  Sure hated to waste it.

As always, we met a nice couple here in camp.  Two nice couples really.  first is Dennis, from New Brunswick and a welder of the old school.  All types, any job, hard work complete with mini-stroke warnings of our too-short lives.  Dennis and I rambled about the solar power and many small Tramper details swapping times with a 1930-? Pontiac frame and a Land Cruiser project.  His dad, like him, was skilled at whatever had to be done.  We are all learning every day (I hope).  The next couple, from State College, PA, was trying to share a nice quiet dinner in the “kitchen area” of the campground when we arrived to wash our dishes.  She noticed our oddly similar cookware as she commented on our Big All-Clad sauté’ pan that I insisted on bringing.  We love food, we like to cook, how could we cook big meals or feasts without a big pan? (Sorry tonights meal was not picture worthy.  Anyone know what to do with salted cod?)  We are doubting that even the local skunks are going to want what we made (even after washing and rinsing before frying).

How can I convey THIS…? ahh…ahhhh: The smell here

If I could project or download THIS place you’d share the bliss.  Day after day I am caressed by the floaty-light smell of Balsam Pine.  Or is it Hemlock, or maybe Tamarind.

I don’t know, but PineSol or one of those “Little trees” car deodorizers can’t touch it.   Amazing to me is that is wafts over me repeatedly; it’s new every time, a hundred or thousand times a day.  With sound, your senses will accommodate, set a new threshold and “not hear” baseline sounds.  Like acclimating to traffic or background noise.  At home even smelly smells get less bad, like paint or something.  you get used to it and don’t notice anymore.

Thank Goodness these smells keep overwhelming me.  There is no picture I can share.  No scratch and sniff nor smell-o-rama from John Waters to download.  I can only oogle,  awh,  and gush about how great it is.  WOW.  Even all capital letters cant express.  Seems every turn or crest of a hill brings a warm or even a cool breeze to celebrate.  Just when I forget how nice it smells….boom, there it is again.

WOW, It smells SO GOOD !!!

– David

DAY 20 – 10/4/2012 somewhere in the Maine Woods, in which we see a moose!

Impossibly tall, with an appearance at once majestic and goofy, we rounded a corner and saw a Moose! On bikes on the logging road, we were about 40 yards away. We knew he was a boy – he had a beautiful rack of antlers. Agog, we could barely get the camera out for a few photos as he stalked away into the trees. We’ve never been in close proximity to a moose before – just distant glimpses in Wyoming.

We had set up camp on a wooded rise at the confluence of Machias River and the West Branch of the Machias. This night, we were in an actual campsite. It was about 5 miles into the woods on the dirt logging road. But the campsite was completely deserted at this time of year except for us and the birds and chipmunks. After our moose bike ride, we put the kayak in the Machias at our camp.

I used to do sprint-distance triathlons. Doing two out of the three sports in a training session was called a ‘brick’. So, on this day in the beautiful wilds of Maine, our brick was a bike ride and paddle.

Gratitude was the overriding emotion of the day for me. I am grateful that, after the cancer ordeal, here I am, in this beautiful place far from civilization. I’m also so grateful for my wonderful husband, who really made this possible. We’re just ordinary middle-class people. Yet we were able to stop working for awhile and go off into the woods. Absolutely priceless!

We don’t shoot the rapids. We only paddle up to take the picture of the rapids!

– Jane