Category Archives: Wildlife

DAY 158 2/15/2013 Farewell Friends and Monarch!

Rolling down off the site

Rolling down off the site

Today we packed up, hitched up and rolled out.  This was a near daily event on the Voyage until Heart of the Rockies where we’ve been docked since January one.  Here we skied.  Here we met our hosts, Hollly, Gayle, and the ever-so-happy Aiden.  Here we met The LivingstonFamilyAdventure!  Gabe, Marci, Mason, Adin, Asher, Mark, Niko.  We met Jeff and Snoogins.  And all have found their way into our hearts.  We were a community surviving the cold with the common Mountain interest.  Living in the venturi above Salida we all braved the scouring high winds.  We cooked out apres- ski at 10 degrees as the sun went down.  We opened our door to the wind ripping it out of our hands more times than not.  Double dates, potlucks of Gumbo, Curry, Ribs and laughter will not be forgotten or taken for granted.  Gathering those joys is truly life’s bounty.  Warmth in the cold of Winter.

Bye Bye Monarch

Bye Bye Monarch

Another odd thing for David to do is leave a ski area just as the season gets rolling, all trails opened and the backcountry getting deeper.  But this is not a ski trip.  This is not JUST a ski trip.  It is longer, deeper and open to a tomorrow with whatever it brings.

We have left family, new friends and new places before.  Sometimes just a few days after meeting them.  Its hard, but the road calls…the next adventure hides around the corner.  This time it was much  harder.  Climbing Monarch Pass to cross the Continental Divide felt like leaving old friends again!  Unprompted, I looked over at Jane once and knew she had the same lump in her throat.

But here we go.  Yup, another milestone driven.  Colorado DOT webcams to give a limited idea of road conditions.  Four new inches of snow at Monarch was not “EPIC” enough to delay leaving.  The roads below the pass were dry, and above 10,000 feet looked like just a little snow pack.  Ice too would have kept us safely parked at “home”.

Poor Marfa (the Faithful 4Runner, as you’ll recall), strolled up the pass with her 3400 lb load, going only 25 mph on the steeper sections.  Coloradans have no hesitation to pass, but I don’t put myself in a ditch for their convenience.  Hazard lights flashing and a caution triangle emblazoned on the spare should be enough to send ’em around.  Even the downhill!

Rolling down slowly

Rolling down slowly

Especially the downhill gave me caution.  30 mph caution signs at cliff-edged curves, a “runaway truck ramp” and snow packed surface combined; I went 25-30 downhill too.  Never have I driven a rig that demands attention like this.  Adrenaline is usually served only for sports, not just driving!

We pulled a big “hundred mile day” and found a National Forest access road to the Cimarron River.  A peaceful night capped off our dusky walk seeing an eagle and nice herd of elk!  Quiet, 0 degrees, cozy.  Off we went again in the AM.

Off West past Gunnison, Wifi’d our safe departure to family and the Colorado community and on we went.  South on 550.  Had I known Red Mountain Pass I may have gone another way.  It was dry, clear and sunny;I definitely would have detoured if it weren’t…but wow!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Jane peers out the window into the abyss (note small piece of road in right corner)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Nice scenery-NO GUARDRAILS!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The Valley Looms 500-1000 feet below!  Did I mention NO GUARDRAILS?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

 

Coalbank Pass' road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

Molas and Coalbank Pass’ road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

I had heard Monarch is one of the higher passes, but had no idea normal cars would be routed over anything like Red Mt (and it’s requisite partners Molas and Coalbank) year round.  Poor Marfa, her transmission started to overheat as indicated by a little red warning light.

Removing ALL cardboard from radiators and checking transmission fluid!

Removing ALL cardboard from radiator, trans cooler and checking transmission fluid!

14 miles uphill at 20-28 mph, no guard rails, thousand foot cliffs, very few pullouts, warnings not to stop secondary to avalanche areas and more than a few ice chunks falling on us while we crawled!  WOW!  Did I say Monarch was stressful?  We pulled into a small passing area and I pulled all of the cardboard that had been shielding the shivering radiator and transmission cooler from the Winter’s air for the past months.  Poor gal, she needed all the air we could give her on THIS climb!  We made it.

Arriving at Durango Mountain Resort (formerly Purgatory) we knew the right move.  Pull in, stay, ski!   (hee hee)  A great dinner was had and improved immensely by visiting across tables with two new friends from Tucson, Angelo and Debbie.  Plus there was a torchlight parade!  Could  it get any better with careful planning?  (As you know, “Serendipity is often our guide!”)

-David

(Fast Wifi allowed lots of pictures today courtesy of Durango Joe’s Coffee)

DAY 105 – 12/28/2012 McDonald Observatory in the Davis Mountains of Texas

We found out a couple of months ago that many scientific celestial observatories are open to the public on Friday and Saturday nights. How could I have lived my whole life never knowing that fact? Oh, well, I know now. So, I’d been trying to coordinate an observatory night into our schedule.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

On our last night in Texas, we visited the McDonald Observatory in the far west. www.mcdonalobservatory.org It’s part of the University of Texas, Austin and is used to research the chemistry of stars and planets. White dwarf stars, the composition of gas clouds in space and supergiant stars, among other things. The two immense telescopes are used for research. We were going to look through the smaller, though still awesome to us, telescopes.

top_mcd_logo

We signed up for a Star Party. Sounds good doesn’t it? McDonald Observatory is at the top of a mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain. And it was getting dark.

So, in consideration for our fellow attendees, we started on the road up an hour early, so as not to cause a mile-long traffic jam behind our slow-moving rig. Marfa (we finally named our 4Runner) did a good job dragging the Tramper up the mountain as the sun set.

We suited up for the outdoor Star Party. The weather was unseasonably cold. Lows in the teens!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We had a large, jolly group on this Christmas break weekend. Ten more folks and we would have had a record crowd! We sat in an outdoor amphitheater. The nearly full moon was the brightest light for miles around. Low, red lights were all the artificial light there was on the mountain. Even the surrounding towns had ordinances forbidding excessive outdoor lighting.

So, even though the shining moon masked lots of stars that night, we still had a beautiful show above us.

The Star Party began with a lecture in the amphitheater.

This isn't our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don't have the skills to take a pic like this!

This isn’t our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don’t have the skills to take a pic like this!

The astronomer giving the tour of the sky had a green laser pointer that seemed to extend a line all the way up to the individual star he was talking about! He pointed out Jupiter and the zodiac constellations. I have imagined that I saw red and orange in Orion’s left shoulder this whole trip as we gazed at night into starlit skies in the wild places. I got validated at the Star Party. Betelgeuse is actually a red supergiant, with visible color!

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website "Betelgeuse"

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website “Betelgeuse”

Belatrix is his right shoulder. Also, I finally saw Polaris, the North Star.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations "rotate" around it.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations “rotate” around it.

After the lecture, we went around to ten different telescopes focused on amazing things in the sky. We saw Jupiter’s bands of clouds.

(not our photo)

(not our photo)

We saw four of Jupiter’s most visible moons. Io, Callisto, Ganymede and Europa.

Jupiter moons

We saw the surface of the moon.

NOAA photo

NOAA photo

As it was not quite full, we saw a profile of one surface.

Waldo_Jaquith_-_Dark_Edge_of_the_Moon_(by-sa)

Wikipedia photo

We saw the Andromeda galaxy, the closest galaxy outside out Milky Way.

Although we couldn't photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

Although we couldn’t photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

The Orion nebula.

images

After we had seen our fill, we went back to the Tramper for the drive down the other side of the mountain. We met a UT policeman who drove by to tell us he liked our trailer. He was the only security for miles around and he suggested a picnic spot off the mountain road where we could camp for the night. Not what we expected! Security usually makes sure that no one camps where they’re not supposed to, not encourage us to do it!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

It was a lovely spot. The next morning, we hit the road, bound for New Mexico.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

On this highway across the desert, within three minutes of each other, we saw a coyote and we saw a road runner! No joke! It was coincidentally ironic. (Can you use those two words together?). Maybe they were engaged in the classic cartoon battle?!

wile-e-coyote-and-road-runner-pack-1949-2010-img-2987640

– Jane

DAYS 99 & 100 – 12/22-23/2012 Hiking Big Bend National Park

THE STARS AT NIGHT – ARE BIG AND BRIGHT -(clap, clap, clap, clap) – DEEP IN THE HAAAARRT OF TEXAS!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I couldn’t resist adding that! Because, the stars really are big and they really are bright here in Southwest Texas. Of course, anywhere in the world the stars are bigger and brighter out in the country with little or no lights. But Texas is one of those Western states where the sky is really big; the better to enjoy the nighttime display.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We camped at 5,400 feet above sea level in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend NP, the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. All around us was the Chihuahuan Desert, arid and hostile to life.

The Chisos Range provides an oasis of sorts, protecting small scrubby trees and hardy plants and catching water from the infrequent rains.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

At the Pour-Off. Careful, it’s slippery and a long way down!

Arriving from Marathon in the afternoon, we set up camp and took a short hike on the Window Trail. The window refers to the Basin “pour-off” where rainwater drains out of the valley to the desert below.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

The campground was nearly full. Camping for Christmas seems so odd to me but, I come from an area where it’s cold and damp in the winter, sometimes snowy.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Here in south Texas, the days are in the 70’s to 80’s and the nights get only cool. So, camping at Christmas is a treat that probably takes them a little out of the holiday frenzy.

Next day, we took on the Emory Peak hike; 11 miles and 2,500 ft elevation. It took us six hours to complete the circuit.

Iris tags along

Iris tags along

The day was gorgeous and the people we met on the trail were delightful. Of course, everyone was on vacation, doing something fun and challenging so of course we were all happy!

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

There’s no mountain biking in the national park, so we set out for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

You drive through the desert to get there, through tiny, sun-baked towns. We met a transplanted Marylander in a small grocery store in Terlingua. She and her Texan co-worker agreed that not everyone who decides to leave their home and move to South Texas stays.

Terlingua cemetery

Terlingua cemetery

It’s quite a different world. No shopping to speak of, no movie theater, no gym, no hospital, no big sports venues, no new car dealer, etc, etc. Baking hot summers. Isolation aplenty.

– Jane

DAY 86 – 12/09/2012 Cape San Blas, Florida

Florida is such a big state! We will be in the Sunshine State for another few days as we travel our slow, backroads pace, heading West. Before we left home, neighbor Leslie recommended a place on Florida’s Gulf Coast with white sand beaches and clear, blue-green water called Cape San Blas. (Funny, we thought she said “Sand Blast”. But even Florida would not name a place Sand Blast, would they?).

What?!

What?!

We stopped for some rest enroute to San Blas at a cute little festival in the town of Sopchoppy. (OK, maybe there could be a place in Florida called Sand Blast!). I saw my favorite Christmas blow-up of all time. Normally, I like them not at all, but who could resist a pop-up Santa?

I gave away the books I’d finished reading to a fellow traveller who reads 6 or 7 books a week.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

Cute lawn ornament made from odd plates/dishes. The lawn ornament in the back row with 4 wheels is nice too.

He and his wife do “something stupid”, as they call it, every 5 years or so. They drop everything and take off in their RV rig to wander. Sounds like a great plan!?

We believe!

We believe!

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Bald Eagles scan the Gulf

Like!
Like!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

San Blas was everything we hoped it would be. Beautiful weather. Days in the upper 70’s. Evenings down to 60 or so. Gulf water warm enough to swim in. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPalm trees swaying in balmy breezes. Gulls, herons and pelicans whirling overhead and fishing the blue and green water of Eagle Harbor, on the bay side.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

They call this “The Forgotten Coast” and right now, I believe it because the campground is only half full. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the beach you may only see a couple of other people. Kayaking on the bay side we saw no one. And, Daria – you were so right about Florida’s Gulf Coast beaches. I’m not sure where I was 20 years ago when I was last here, but it sure wasn’t San Blas! It’s a great beach.

It’s an uncrowded paradise. A perfect little sojourn as we start thinking about skiing and camping in the snow. But, skiing is a long way off. Maybe 5 or 6 weeks. Meanwhile, we bask in the sun…

– Jane

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

100_7255

100_7239

DAY 81 – 12/4/2012 Cedar Key, “another suggested stop”

100_7197

As we reluctantly waved goodbye to our hosts, Zealen asked; “why do they have to go”?

Zealen with Alex & Daria

Zealen with Alex & Daria

Its so hard to leave the familiar and known love.  We always try not to overstay our welcome (and in this case pray we didn’t leave our colds behind).  We leave because we are traveling, we seek our road rhythm.  Boy, its hard to leave when a four year old wants you to stay.

Our next two plus hour drive stretches to nearly four. But as we started heading for any “green on the map” we focus on getting to Cedar Key.  A delightful cat owner neighbor on Jekyll Island had said “it’s nice there” and cat owners are reputable sources for this kind of information.  So we took our chances driving to a campground without a reservation once again.  Bruce at Sunset Campground, Cedar Key, FL greets me at about 7 PM and asks if I mind “just parking and using Scout’s Honor” to register in the morning.  On my honor…

The MilkyWay makes an appearance.  Through whatever combination of preoccupation, city lights or temporarily ignoring the environment, we haven’t seen the sky for days.  Life IS like that…we chug along noticing whatever we’ve chosen as pertinent and see nothing else.  Ever notice how prominent telephone poles and wires look in pictures sometimes when you barely notice them in life?  At least that is a good function of our selective attention.

But I digress.  I can’t see any constellations, there are too many stars in between.  The night is a peppered canvas in every direction.  The Milky Way splashes dramatically right through it all.  Jane and I meet a fellow camper via his small Schnauzer with a fresh haircut, and even rapt in his storied Western travels, BOTH of us notice a shooting star off over his left shoulder!

Later we fed ourselves, and wandered to the water’s edge for more joyous sky.  By the way, we were wearing shorts and t-shirts embraced by the balmy Florida evening.  Crickets abound and chatter in every direction.  My first flashlight aimed at the water triggered an equally abundant and multi-directional chorus of splashes and movement.  Unseen fish or bugs or bug eating fish were on the move.  Scanning the cove scared a roosting bird, so I quickly doused the light again.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The natural fisher, no net required…

The WORLD IS FULL OF LIFE!  The WORLD IS FULL OF BEAUTY!

– David

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Peilcan flying lessons

So many choices...which fish should we order today?

So many choices…which fish should we order today?