Category Archives: DAY posts

DAY 47 – 10/31/2012 Oh, Dear! Still in Rosendale!

HAPPHALLOWEEN !!

Love the ghoul/vampire hanging from a Main Street porch!

Love the ghoul/vampire hanging from a Main Street porch!

This week, Rosendale is dark, dank, dreary, dismal and downright depressing! Nine days ( 9 days!) of clouds and raw, damp air. Please comment if you happen to think of any other “D” words that might describe the atmosphere of a chronically overcast place, like Rosendale is right now.

“But, Jane” says David, “it’s a 700-mile-wide storm system. Of course it’s cloudy.”

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Ever the realist, David is absolutely right! Doesn’t mean I have to like it.

Don’t misunderstand – we have found nothing but warmth, kindness and sunny smiles from the people of Rosendale. It’s just the darn weather that’s bumming me out. Also, I feel that poor Rosendale is being misrepresented by mother nature right now. Frankenstorm Sandy has made a probably otherwise sunny place into a torment for any sunshine-loving person.

Maybe it would be different if we weren’t waiting for our truck to be fixed. Or living in a house instead of in a trailer.

Sounds like I’m complaining. But, I can’t complain! I’m not working or commuting in traffic. I’m on the Tramper Voyage! With my wonderful David! So, really, it’s all good. I guess I just needed to vent, thank you very much.

Besides, I just discovered  that the Patricia Cornwell book I bought (used, so it was cheap) is Large Type. Which would be great, if I had low vision. But it’s irritating to read. Very few words per line. My eyeballs have to rocket back and forth across the page. Enough to give me a headache!

But enough griping about random stuff. We took a walk in town today and checked out the library and the press. Sorry, my letterpress friends, the Canal Press is offset printing.

I went inside and visited with the owner/operator. We started talking and it came out that he, too, went on an adventure when he was just about my age. He shut down the presses and took off for some months; only, he travelled all around the world, not just the U.S, staying in hostels and backpacking.

One of his best memories? Climbing up a glacier-clad volcano in Chile then looking down inside the giant crater through sulfurous  fumes at the bubbling lava. Wow! That would definitely be one of the highlights for me, too! It’s amazing what you can hear when you have the time to stop and talk to folks.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn the shop today, Canal Press looked to have perhaps three large presses. Nothing modern. Just really nice old-school machines, maybe 50-60 years old.

The owner showed me some of his work; I picked up a cool map of area hikes and activities that he had printed for a local client.

Another stop in town today was the library. I really love libraries and the way they encourage me to stop and stay and read. It was a perfect day for a library. All damp and dreary outside. No better place to be than a nice, warm library!

The Rosendale library used to be a church. An Episcopal church to be exact.

Rosendale Library

Rosendale Library

Built in 1876 of cement manufactured right here in Rosendale and stone cut from the rocky cliffs nearby. Interesting factoid: at one time, 50% of U.S. cement output came from Rosendale. See the post  http://wp.me/p2HFBQ-ai “The Kindness of Strangers” for some pics of an old cement plant here.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe church was flooded twice, the last time in 1955. The Episcopalians abandoned it and the wreaking ball was all set to come knock it down when a native son, Andrew Snyder, a cement magnate, bought it and turned it over to the newly formed Rosendale Library Association in 1957.

We met one of the librarians, who was happy to tell us the history. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt was a busy little library, so we left her with her patrons and their books, to return again to the Tramper.

We await the completion of the 4Runner repair and plot our course for the next chapter of the Voyage.

– Jane

It really has rained very little here this week.  Grey and grey-er.  Spits a little, then an arm of blue ski teases and spirals by.  We have found a few things to do, but clearly not very captivating based on the number of comments and hits.   Don’t worry, we’ll be shiny again soon.

I feel lost without activity.  So far, we’ve found the bike ride to Mohonk and an early morning bike blast, ahead of the storm 4 miles uphill to peer into my Toyota motor.  I need exercise regularly, the halls of Sinai often supply sufficient walks, but now, alas.  The Tramper has little room for any workout, we walk to town for the laundromat.  Before long we will celebrate the spending of money.  The truck will run and we will do a day trip within reach of the shop’s warranty.  I just want to witness two or three warmup and cool off cycles before hitchin’ up and heading South.

The Delaware Water Gap is a likely stop.  Maybe Carbon County.  We will surely stop at home to treasure the family and friends so often taken for granted in normal working life.  We miss you all.  Of course I am also planning the Ski Season, just around the corner!

But, we’ll really enjoy the warm & sunny weather of Florida and Texas before we ski!

-David

DAY 45, 10/29/2012 Moved out of Camp…

We had a quiet night despite building winds and storm anxiety.  I always try to block and limit the hysteria generated by the media.  I know my risks, make my choices and get to live with them.  We have had 4 DAYS of building concern and hype.  This has allowed time our forefathers wouldn’t have had to actually prepare our properties or to worry ourselves sick.  We have confab-ed with Olivia, talked about cat boxes on basement landings, sump pump contingencies and our own decision tree (no pun intended).

By noon today, it still hasn’t rained here yet.   Sorry Baltimore, I know you are getting it now.  But I have chosen a house made of Aluminum and the big bad wolf has not yet arrived here.  We had time to have a relaxed outdoor cookout of fork-held hot dogs with our camper-neighbor friend.  New York City is shut down like much of the Mid-Atlantic.  As we cooked and ate prior to the impending days Jane and I will spend out of the rain in our little box, we heard three different trees break.  One far into the woods, eight inches in diameter.  Another just at the campground driveway 200 yards away snipped the power lines right off the telephone pole.  J and I went down, confirmed that no wires were hot (they were sheared clear off the pole), and cleared the driveway.

Casual lunch as Sandy slams the South

Casual lunch as Sandy slams the South

I made the difficult decision to impose upon our friend to take us out of camp.  This journey is temporarily inconvenienced by the absence of the truck. But I must place safety concern for Jane and I above the conveniences of camp here.  I also consider the Tramper to be irreplaceable at this time.

Just a few branches to clear our egress "just in case"

Just a few branches to clear our egress “just in case”

We now sit in town, in the middle of the Recreation Center parking lot several hundred yards from the nearest tree.  The storm is still impending, but here they expect ~2 inches of rain and 30-40 mph gusts.  We are safer.  the truck has been disassembled at Chilcott’s (they wouldn’t let me help).  And I was right, the head gasket is blown, only one cylinder had leaked, there appears barely any rung-groove, denoting little wear on the remainder of the motor.  The heads are at the machine shop with “if it aint broke, don’t fix it” instructions.  In a few days we may resume.  I may drive two or three small journeys nearby while under warranty to explore the repair before hitching up and leaving town.

The lonely little Tramper, far from any trees or limbs that could fall, ending the Voyage

The lonely little Tramper, far from any trees or limbs that could fall, ending the Voyage

Meanwhile we wait, read, and play a few games.  “Good thing Jane and I like each other.”

Wow…As I finished writing, Ken and Karl the Highway Supervisor informed us that the Rec Center has hot coffee and bathrooms available for us.  They deemed us Parking Lot Security, laughed and welcomed us heartily!

PEOPLE ARE GREAT!

– David

DAY 43: 10/27/2012 The Calm Before

a still night after a long ride

a still night after a long ride

After our ride Saturday, we enjoyed sweet calm and a near-full moon over the campsite.  A beautiful sunrise snuck gleaming under the cloudline.  Here we are in Rosendale “awaiting the storm”.  Various caring family and friends worry that we should rent a car and come home (or some variant).

We’ve decided to stay our course here in NY.  Rushing South will not guarantee that we don’t wind ourselves right into the worst part of the storm or a frenzied car accident.  We are on high ground, over 100′ above the river, have inspected for dead trees and branches, and bolted down the solar panel.  I’ve found a piece of plywood to cover it with and we are willing to run or drive for better shelter as necessary.  We have a good new friend in Jason with us here, who, unlike us has a vehicle in case we should need to evacuate.

With that in mind, today was partially a cleanup/batten-down preparation day.  However, in spite of the eternal grey skies, we fully charged our solar batteries, have a full tank of propane, and have stored 5-7 days worth of water.  We will be better off than some even if power is out.  I saved the food from our freezer in Baltimore last Summer during the derecho using this camper’s propane refrigerator.  “We’re good”.

On to the day post, Jane and I did a killer bike ride Saturday.  ‘Manah-manah’ part two.  Actually the park we biked to (no car, remember) is called Mohonk Preserve.  The showcase of which is Mohonk Mountain House on the top of a mountain.  I think the showcase is the Mountain and Preserve.

The Mohonk Mountain House (perhaps the back view)

The Mohonk Mountain House (perhaps the back view)

The Mountain House looks like a 10 story compromise between decades of differing opinions.  There is a turret, a peaked roof, German timber/stucco style and innumerable other features.

Surely rife with luxury.   If the tennis court and golf course didn’t belie the depth of indulgence

A little trick for when you don't have a map: take a photo and you can scroll around it on your camera for details

A little trick for when you don’t have a map: take a photo and you can scroll around it on your camera for details

available, then the massage therapist who gave us directions or the Wheelhouse with its fleet of new Specialized Rockhopper bikes for rent lent a clue.

Our ride carried us just beyond that distant 'squared' notch near the Trapps access area.

Our ride carried us just beyond that distant ‘squared’ notch near the Trapps access area.

Funny story about the phrase; “on top of a mountain”.  Some years ago, Jane was riding with me in Susquehanna State Park.

Jane rolls the carriage trails at Mohonk

Jane rolls the carriage trails at Mohonk

We were weaving our mountain bikes up and down on the ridge along the river when fatigue overwhelmed her.  We had climbed and clawed our way up and down the 2-300 ft. elevation single track trail more than a dozen times headed back to the car.  Then, while climbing yet again, my exhausted Jane cried:  “WHERE is the parking lot? on the top of a F-ing MOUNTAIN?”  Today, once again our goal was on the top of a mountain.  You really need to hike or ride from a valley to a mountaintop sometime to understand.

The Shawangunks are an eastern climbong mecca, seen as we biked back on the Under Cliff Trail

The Shawangunks are an eastern climbong mecca, seen as we biked back on the Under Cliff Trail

This is likely a frequent view Jane is stuck with

This is likely a frequent view Jane is stuck with

I always think of Ski Roundtop or Ski Liberty in Pennsylvania as small mountains with about 600′ elevation change.  The lifts make it seem so short, I ski down in 1 and  ½ minutes (and thats not racing).  Well, hike up or bike up a 600′ elevation gain and you know its a nice long way.  The summit at Mohonk Mt. is ~1275′, several of the dips we went down into were 600′, and our little town of Rosendale sits at about 200′ above sea level.

We biked up that road down there by the barn to get this view from the top

We biked up that road down there by the barn to get this view from the top

We peddled up over a thousand feet to get up there.  The views and carriage roads made it worth it.  Then the sweep back downhill to town also repaid us in swift glee.

A downhill smile, after hours of climbing!

A downhill smile, after hours of climbing!

Ah Rosendale.  I don’t think I’ve given Rosendale the delightful credit it deserves.  We went to the Rosendale Theater Friday to see an enthusiastic, interactive Rocky Horror Picture Show.  Funny that thing won’t die.  Proving a good diversion and exposing a vibrant true community theater.  Rosendale bought the place and keeps it going with other more mainstream productions including dance, opera and plays at the edge of the Big Apple.

The town has a main street, great bike shop, barber shop, guitar shop, antique store, three convenience stores, two gas stations, a laundromat, several bars, an organic grocer and an earthy feel under the Northeast cautious attitude (also known as chill).

Main Street, Rosendale, NY

Main Street, Rosendale, NY

It has a groove, I think I could live in a place this size.

– David

Day 40, 10/24/2012 The kindness of strangers

Knowing me means you also know I don’t sit still well.  Rain isn’t the reason I am not doing much of anything right now.  I’ve been waiting for a return call with an estimate for repairing the head gasket etc on the 4Runner.  In the pre-dawn hours I rambled online through the SST (special shop tools) I would need, thought about what I could rent or borrow and pretty much avowed I wanted to take the motor apart right here in camp.  After investigating a few options within camp and awaiting “one more phone call”,  I humbled myself to ask a favor from a neighbor camper (Jason, the only other camper right now as all the “climbers” have gone home).  I needed a ride 2 miles to get my propane bottle filled.  I would not be balancing the big white “30lb” bottle on my bike, nor carrying it walking.

Jason readily gave me a ride up Rte 32 to get a propane refill while his own water heated for a before work shower.  Even Jack at the stove store was ready and started to to call around and suggest a good mechanic for us.  Then Jane and I decided to ride our bikes a bit.  Jack made us aware that a rail-trail was being developed and it started right here in Rosendale.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARails-to-Trails is one of my few regular charities.  Rail-trails represent a nice, semi-paved entry into green places that most people would never see.  Jane and I are not most people.  We like to “mountain bike”, so narrow, rooty or rocky trails are our favorite.  Railtrails can be boring, but of course without a car we had to go somewhere.

After our brief hour or so, the trail proved young and unbuffed, yet still a nice old rail trail.  We stopped at a local bike shop and asked about Single-track trails.  Warnings were heard that rifle season starts Sunday and pretty much all trails require a drive to get to.  I tend to talk a lot and explained our dilemma.  A customer overheard and began to offer suggestions.  He knew everyone around here. Although a world traveller, he had over sixty years of history here and friends in every direction.

His bike fixed, he offered to call or take us to some of his connections.  Unused to accepting help, I mostly stood agape.  My delayed replies seemed to include, uh, uh if you want or think you should. By adventures end, he drove us “just up the road” in three or more directions. It may have been a half hour of driving before we all introduced ourselves to each other.  Byron is a most gracious man, he even expressed his own cautions and misgivings referenced to the last time he did a traveller a favor (an RV sat in  his garage for a year).   We visited Rick, a longtime friend (he skied everywhere with him, shared the coldest day of his life at 26 below zero).  Rick is a master craftsman, detailing a 1932 hot rod with a flathead waiting on the floor in his shop.  The frame project looked near completion, as Byron joked about the 2 years its been “sitting there”.  Rick and his son, a world-class snowboarder and “crazy kayaker” who goes over falls are sort of hobbyist mechanics.  They work on just enough jobs to satisfy quality and bills I guess.  Byron says Rick just works til he gets mad, then goes out of the shop for a while. Anyone who has actually worked on a car would see the humor and sanity in that strategy.

Some two-minute jobs become hellish 2 hour perseverance tests: My pre-trip replacement of  the rusted-stuck, flimsy little fuel filter, tucked under the frame and cross member would be a prime example.  I couldn’t use a torch or grinder as the sparks would have enjoyed the dripping gasoline more than I could stand, wrenches were crushing it as I tried to protect the in and out-going fuel lines.  Even a hacksaw wouldn’t fit.  I kept pecking away using a broken hacksaw blade clamped into vise-grips and eventually: The mechanic had his way.  I cut through the hexagon, nut-shaped portion several times til it succumbed and unscrewed like it was supposed to.  I did have to crawl out and stretch, breathe, and breathe again, but didn’t leave the garage on that one.

Rick said he couldn’t even start on my car for about two weeks.  We’re not in a hurry, but we can’t be in port without a car for that long.

Next, we drove to Byron’s own home where he offers to let me use one of his sheds.  I’m afraid 15 miles from the camper without air tools, a torch, or my own home’s resources and contacts could be frustrating.  Who next?  He suggested a few options and Chilcott’s.  Chilcott’s has several mechanics, the shop is meticulous and Byron has known Alex Chilcott since they were kids.  He calls and talks to Alec, then thrusts the phone to me.  “How do you know the head gasket is blown?, did someone tell you?”  I give the story and symptoms…he nods by phone, agreeing and says they could do it.  “Don’t think it’ll be done in 2 days though”…because the heads have to go to a machine shop, it could take a week.

While dropping off the truck I meet Mike.  He almost tries to talk me out of “putting that much money” into the car.  I know everything is uncertain, but my research has unveiled many of these V6 Toyotas burn through their gasket, then go on to live a productive life.  Besides, the brakes, shocks, rear bearings, muffler and more are new.  I put 50 hours into preventative jobs in the three weeks before we left town.  Used cars are complex electro-mechanical devices.  Roulette is an unforgiving game and my best intuition, call-outs to Lynn in Cumberland, and other research says:  Fix what you’ve got, keep the known variables.

What a remarkable day.  We started without knowing what we’d do “all day” and were chauffeured through steps of help we barely even asked for.  People are Great.

OOPS, almost forgot.  Upon being dropped off in our driveway, our camper neighbor, Jason, invited us over for Brats on the grill.  We brought pasta salad and potatoes for a great picnic-table fireside feast.  The rainy day has turned to just cloudy and held off long enough to relax, eat and hear about non-destructive testing, dye-penetrant and a short contract in NY City.  People are Great.

P.S. This morning the professional warning call came from Chilcott’s, this was to be an expensive repair.  I was prepared for that and offered my sweeping, parts-cleaning services or anything to defray the cost…we’ll see if they have any reception.  I told them they could ADD to the bill if they didn’t like my work!

– David

Our new friend Byron was really incredible. He gave us hours of his time, even showed us his lovely home that he had built himself many years ago. David’s so right – people are great and we are lucky to have found another one here in Rosendale, NY!

It’s easy to forget the natural goodness of people when someone in their car cuts you off or when reading the horrors on the front page of the newspaper. (I date myself – I meant the newspaper online of course!) Reality shows thrive on  showing the nasty side of the human race. But, everywhere we go, we seem to find the kindness of strangers…

– Jane

Here are some photos of our railtrail ride today:

(These and all the photos on our blog can be clicked and made larger)

The day was wet and dreary and no one else was around, which added to the spookiness of this abandoned cement kiln from the 1880's.

The day was wet and dreary and no one else was around, which added to the spookiness of this abandoned cement kiln from the 1880’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A giant conveyor went deep into the quarry to bring up lime from the earthThe conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

A giant conveyor went deep into the quarry to bring up lime from the earth

 

 

 

 

I imagine folks, now long gone, working at this site in the 19th century

I imagine folks, now long gone, working at this site in the 19th century

 

 

The conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

The conveyor ended somewhere in the bottomless quarry, now filled with dark water

 

 

DAY 39 – 10/23/2012 – Beached! In which the truck fails…

I just put a pan of Toll House bars in the oven. There’s laundry drying in the shower and the rice and beans leftovers are stowed away.

It’s day two in the Creekview Campground in Rosendale, NY. We’ll be here for a while. Maybe another week.

The 4Runner blew a head gasket on Sunday night. It sits idle on the campsite, waiting for attention.

It’s just another adventure on the Tramper Voyage, sort of “Little House on the Prairie” style! It’s ironic that right now I’m reading A Painted House by John Grisham. It’s not his usual tense legal drama but rather a story based on his own childhood in rural Arkansas in the ’50’s. There aren’t many modern amenities. Hard, hand labor is the order of the day.

While we do have Internet and cell phones we have no microwave, dishwasher or washing machine. The water reservoir must be filled daily. Hot water is produced only after we turn on the water heater, powered by propane which, in turn, also has to be refilled. So, compared with our former lifestyle, we are somewhat roughing it in a small trailer. And, it’s raining which keeps us inside.

But, it could be worse. A whole lot worse.

On Sunday evening, we were finishing a day of driving after a nice hike up Monument Mountain near Great Barrington, MA.

Here's the gully that I dropped David's camera into while on our Monument Mountain hike. The camera dropped, I screamed. It bounced, I screamed again. Bounce. Scream. Bounce. Scream. Then, splash! into a stream. I think it's dead... but it had a good 10 year run.

Here’s the gully that I dropped David’s camera into while on our Monument Mountain hike. The camera dropped, I screamed. It bounced, I screamed again. Bounce. Scream. Bounce. Scream. Then, splash! into a stream. I think it’s dead… but it had a good 10 year run.

We had arrived in the Shawangunks region of New York state and thinking about where to park the Tramper for the night.

There was a description of a nearby trailhead parking lot that sounded good (and free). But, the Shawangunk mountains are a playground for New York City and the trailhead lots were crowded with rock climbers on this beautiful October Sunday. Also, we encountered a tremendous traffic jam outside New Paltz. Everyone was headed toward the interstate back to the city.

Sunset in New York, with the car thunk-thunking.

Sunset in New York, with the car thunk-thunking.

So, we opted to head for a small campground instead. The truck, by this time, was starting to run very rough. The trailhead was on a mountain. The campground was in the valley. We chose the campground, just a few miles away. Good thing we did!

It was full dark when we pulled in. The truck was overheating but managed to pull us into a campsite. We met the manager (or maybe he’s the owner), paid for the night and settled in.

David soon determined that the truck had blown a head gasket. Oy! It will require a pretty big repair. David has spent the last two days on the phone and online, trying to figure this all out. I’ve been mostly reading and washing things. And baking those cookie bars which are now cooling in their pan. The Tramper smells delicious and is nice and warm.

The Creekside is a small independent operation. Maybe a dozen campsites. Hot showers, flush toilets (I know! Sorry! I try not to mention the ‘t’ word much but it’s a reality!) and electric and water hookup for the Tramper. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABill, the manager/owner said he stopped selling firewood a few years back. He didn’t want to deal with collecting the sales tax. He’s a bit of a curmudgeon but he adds local color and is giving us a nice weekly rate.

We landed in a pretty good spot! Imagine if we had opted for the trailhead. Life would be a lot less cushy right now.

My good friend Donna gave me this lamp years ago. It makes a nice glow at night.

My good friend Donna gave me this lamp years ago. It makes a nice glow at night.

There would probably be no cell phone or internet service on the mountain either, even with our hotspot. We’ve run into that situation many times on our trip. Lack of these services would have made it very difficult for David to get help with the 4Runner. Not impossible, just more difficult.

So now, we wait. And hang out in the trailer. It’s very cozy and comfortable in here. The renovations that David did are holding up very nicely! In some ways, it’s easier to live here. There are different chores but a lot fewer chores than at home. Life is simpler and sweet.

Yummy maple syrup we enjoyed on our pancakes this morning. Purchased from Matt, the nice shoe salesperson we met back in Maine

Yummy maple syrup we enjoyed on our pancakes this morning. Purchased from Matt, the nice shoe salesperson we met back in Maine

Tomorrow, AAA will come and tow the poor 4Runner to a shop in nearby New Paltz. David’s been talking with a guy in an auto shop there. David has a talent for establishing an instant rapport with people and the guy seems to want to help us out. Not a discounted-price kind of helping us out. But, he’s sympathetic and maybe won’t rip us off. Fingers crossed!

Now the bars are ready to eat…

– Jane

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI outlined nearly this exact scenario when we were “truck shopping”.  No amount of prep can eliminate all risk.  When buying the ’95 4Runner for 2 grand I stated, even if we blow the head gasket or transmission, we may just have to throw another thousand at it.  We’ll just meet some new people and settle in biking and waiting.  If you recall the “blacksmith’s hammer” of pre-ignition, it is pinging that likely killed the poor head gasket on the anvil of mountain climbs and sometimes highway paces.  Fortunately, Toyota has a revised MLS, Multi-Layer Steel gaskets that reportedly hold up better.  I wish the truck were nestled in my own garage where I would disassemble, measure and repair everything with the help of a local machine shop…but I won’t be dropping bolts on the ground here where the weather could change overnight and it’s raining right now.

I always believe our problems are only as big as our hysteria.  Sometimes, I almost think I like it when I have trouble.  No, I don’t really like problems, but have always enjoyed a methodical reaction.

In my teens I was on a school bus shuttling skiers to the Trailside Lodge in Vermont.  When it became stuck on ice, sliding slightly into a shallow ditch nearly everyone sat still worrying about being late for dinner.  Even though I knew I couldn’t budge the thing by pushing, I went out, walked around for a look.  I managed to direct a few willing strangers and a friend to lay branches under the wheels in the culvert, then safely orchestrated pushing and rocking from our team to free the bus.  Thought and caution are good reactions.

We will sort this out.  (At least it is not ruining a treasured one-week vacation) And, who better to be stuck with? ..than Jane

– David