Monthly Archives: December 2012

DAY 105 – 12/28/2012 McDonald Observatory in the Davis Mountains of Texas

We found out a couple of months ago that many scientific celestial observatories are open to the public on Friday and Saturday nights. How could I have lived my whole life never knowing that fact? Oh, well, I know now. So, I’d been trying to coordinate an observatory night into our schedule.

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On our last night in Texas, we visited the McDonald Observatory in the far west. www.mcdonalobservatory.org It’s part of the University of Texas, Austin and is used to research the chemistry of stars and planets. White dwarf stars, the composition of gas clouds in space and supergiant stars, among other things. The two immense telescopes are used for research. We were going to look through the smaller, though still awesome to us, telescopes.

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We signed up for a Star Party. Sounds good doesn’t it? McDonald Observatory is at the top of a mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain. And it was getting dark.

So, in consideration for our fellow attendees, we started on the road up an hour early, so as not to cause a mile-long traffic jam behind our slow-moving rig. Marfa (we finally named our 4Runner) did a good job dragging the Tramper up the mountain as the sun set.

We suited up for the outdoor Star Party. The weather was unseasonably cold. Lows in the teens!

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We had a large, jolly group on this Christmas break weekend. Ten more folks and we would have had a record crowd! We sat in an outdoor amphitheater. The nearly full moon was the brightest light for miles around. Low, red lights were all the artificial light there was on the mountain. Even the surrounding towns had ordinances forbidding excessive outdoor lighting.

So, even though the shining moon masked lots of stars that night, we still had a beautiful show above us.

The Star Party began with a lecture in the amphitheater.

This isn't our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don't have the skills to take a pic like this!

This isn’t our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don’t have the skills to take a pic like this!

The astronomer giving the tour of the sky had a green laser pointer that seemed to extend a line all the way up to the individual star he was talking about! He pointed out Jupiter and the zodiac constellations. I have imagined that I saw red and orange in Orion’s left shoulder this whole trip as we gazed at night into starlit skies in the wild places. I got validated at the Star Party. Betelgeuse is actually a red supergiant, with visible color!

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website "Betelgeuse"

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website “Betelgeuse”

Belatrix is his right shoulder. Also, I finally saw Polaris, the North Star.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations "rotate" around it.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations “rotate” around it.

After the lecture, we went around to ten different telescopes focused on amazing things in the sky. We saw Jupiter’s bands of clouds.

(not our photo)

(not our photo)

We saw four of Jupiter’s most visible moons. Io, Callisto, Ganymede and Europa.

Jupiter moons

We saw the surface of the moon.

NOAA photo

NOAA photo

As it was not quite full, we saw a profile of one surface.

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Wikipedia photo

We saw the Andromeda galaxy, the closest galaxy outside out Milky Way.

Although we couldn't photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

Although we couldn’t photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

The Orion nebula.

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After we had seen our fill, we went back to the Tramper for the drive down the other side of the mountain. We met a UT policeman who drove by to tell us he liked our trailer. He was the only security for miles around and he suggested a picnic spot off the mountain road where we could camp for the night. Not what we expected! Security usually makes sure that no one camps where they’re not supposed to, not encourage us to do it!

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It was a lovely spot. The next morning, we hit the road, bound for New Mexico.

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On this highway across the desert, within three minutes of each other, we saw a coyote and we saw a road runner! No joke! It was coincidentally ironic. (Can you use those two words together?). Maybe they were engaged in the classic cartoon battle?!

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– Jane

DAYS 102-103 12/25-26/2012 Mountain Biking the Texas Desert

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While I know we rode but a small taste of this place in just a few days, we think we got a good feel for the desert riding of Texas.  For advice we relied on Jean-Philippe back at College Station so long ago, and Desert Sports near Terlingua.  Both mentioned the “warmup” trails East of the park entrance.  The Lajitas Golf resort and Spa has created a very nice network near the airport there!  (a very private, small and empty airport at that…not a single plane was seen or heard in the three days we were there)

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The Lajita trails includes loops, stacked loops and bailouts to allow a taste of any size without forcing a poison dose upon the rider.  The surface was hard, dry and packed enough to roll fast.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAParts were tiny fractured flat rock bits that Jane deemed riding on Scrabble tiles. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe 18″ wide curvy single track could have been weaved anywhere between the tough, scrappy, low desert growths.  But knowing how fragile the desert is, nearly everyone stays right on the trail.  We blasted about up and down what was probably only 1 or 200′ of rise and fall, making for flowy fun, fun, fun!!!

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The flora is surprisingly diverse.  My favorite is Ocotilla, a thicket-like bush that seems to grow everywhere, but favor those ridge lines where you might expect Indians to rise and run down over the plain.  Fences and Ramadas are often made of this nasty, thorny stalk and Jane noticed some of the fences coming back to life.  The hardy stalk seems to need little moisture and in place, wired into a structure starts to sprout if it touches the ground!  Wow!  Desert life surprises constantly.  We saw a few different tiny and intricate flowers thriving inches from the trail too.  I couldn’t help but share my Camelbak water during my rest stops…bet they bloom again next week.  Kinda like those little shrunken sponge toys that grow to ten times their size.

The next day we thought we’d head for the Contrabando (yes, like contraband, or smugglers goods) Trails System.  I wanted to ride in from the West gate, ride around the Contrabando Dome and back out.  We wondered a bit why not many cars parked there.  an early start led us into gravelly, then rocky, then sandy washes or draws.  As we headed further in without the gleeful paybacks of sinewy buff trail, we contemplated where this was leading.  we gave it another half hour before turning back.  We “threw” the bikes quickly into the 4Runner sans Tramper, and drove hastily to the East Trailhead.

Two or three parked trucks confirmed what we’d been seeing this week.  this is where riders start.  Right off onto the Dog Cholla Trail, we weaved along terraces and tumbled through a few washes.  The ratio was better though, we got what we came for!  And More!  The Crystal Trail was sparkling and spectacular!  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAgain, bench cut joy riding around and up the shoulders of those spotty green-grey hills.  It was so weird that one of them was COVERED IN CRYSTALS.  And so hard NOT to pick one up as a souvenir.

We are so blessed to be riding this stuff.  It seemed petty to bail out on that first ride….But it sure paid off!

-David

DAYS 99 & 100 – 12/22-23/2012 Hiking Big Bend National Park

THE STARS AT NIGHT – ARE BIG AND BRIGHT -(clap, clap, clap, clap) – DEEP IN THE HAAAARRT OF TEXAS!

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I couldn’t resist adding that! Because, the stars really are big and they really are bright here in Southwest Texas. Of course, anywhere in the world the stars are bigger and brighter out in the country with little or no lights. But Texas is one of those Western states where the sky is really big; the better to enjoy the nighttime display.

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We camped at 5,400 feet above sea level in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend NP, the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. All around us was the Chihuahuan Desert, arid and hostile to life.

The Chisos Range provides an oasis of sorts, protecting small scrubby trees and hardy plants and catching water from the infrequent rains.

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At the Pour-Off. Careful, it’s slippery and a long way down!

Arriving from Marathon in the afternoon, we set up camp and took a short hike on the Window Trail. The window refers to the Basin “pour-off” where rainwater drains out of the valley to the desert below.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

The campground was nearly full. Camping for Christmas seems so odd to me but, I come from an area where it’s cold and damp in the winter, sometimes snowy.

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Here in south Texas, the days are in the 70’s to 80’s and the nights get only cool. So, camping at Christmas is a treat that probably takes them a little out of the holiday frenzy.

Next day, we took on the Emory Peak hike; 11 miles and 2,500 ft elevation. It took us six hours to complete the circuit.

Iris tags along

Iris tags along

The day was gorgeous and the people we met on the trail were delightful. Of course, everyone was on vacation, doing something fun and challenging so of course we were all happy!

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

There’s no mountain biking in the national park, so we set out for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

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You drive through the desert to get there, through tiny, sun-baked towns. We met a transplanted Marylander in a small grocery store in Terlingua. She and her Texan co-worker agreed that not everyone who decides to leave their home and move to South Texas stays.

Terlingua cemetery

Terlingua cemetery

It’s quite a different world. No shopping to speak of, no movie theater, no gym, no hospital, no big sports venues, no new car dealer, etc, etc. Baking hot summers. Isolation aplenty.

– Jane

Merry Christmas from Texas! – 12/25/2012

Here's Iris wishing you a Merry Christmas from the Tramper!

Here’s Iris wishing you a Merry Christmas from the Tramper!

Feliz Navidad from the desert of Southwestern Texas!

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– Jane & David

Sleeping With The Dead… 12/22/2012

Another first for us: we spent the night parked in a cemetery! And it wasn’t at all creepy. It was quiet and dark, far enough from the main road. Full of people, yet no one bothered us.

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Our destination was Big Bend National Park. We stopped in the tiny town of Marathon, TX. It was late. Sunset was an hour ago. We saw the sign pointing to the town cemetery and decided to take the advice of the RVer we met back in Sopchoppy, FL.

Nervous at first, we parked and put up the foil/bubble/foil window shades David made to block our interior lights (and for warmth in the winter). A dog barked in the distance but soon settled back down. Headlights on the road far outside the cemetery came and then went, passing us by.

Soon, in the cocoon of the Tramper, we settled in and slept that night like the residents all around us.

Sunrise view from the cemetery

Sunrise view from the cemetery

We vowed to do this again. It’s free and, so far, easy. The downside? Well, it is “stealth” camping so I don’t get to indulge my interest in examining old headstones.

In the morning, we packed up and drove out of the cemetery at first light.

Luckily, Marathon recently got Internet. We stopped at a yummy cafe for breakfast and WiFi before hitting the road again, bound for Big Bend.

Cafe in Marathon, TX

Cafe in Marathon, TX

David tried a Chicken Fried Steak for breakfast!

David tried a Chicken Fried Steak for breakfast!

– Jane