Tag Archives: scenic beauty

DAY 73 – 11/26/2012 From Atlanta to the Sea

Today, we woke up in a completely different world on Jekyll Island, GA.

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Driftwood Beach

Driftwood Beach

David got a serious case of Helmet Hair on our island bike ride

David got a serious case of Helmet Hair on our island bike ride

 

Yesterday,we visited Stone Mountain in north central Georgia, near Atlanta.

Stone Mountain, with it's bas relief of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson

Stone Mountain, with it’s bas relief of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson

Of course we had to climb to the top.

Of course we had to climb to the top.

 

The day-long drive from Stone Mountain to Georgia’s Atlantic coast took us through some pretty depressed areas. As the land flattened and moss appeared hanging from the limbs of trees, we travelled through cotton fields and lots of boarded-up and abandoned buildings. Failed businesses and shuttered factories passed by. Pawn shops and liquor stores ruled the day. Most of the homes still inhabited had wheels. The Sons of Confederate Veterans and multitudinous Baptist churches provided some comfort and maybe a reason to get up in the morning.

Grinding poverty is not a pretty sight. We felt extremely lucky, more so than ever, to be taking a trip like ours. You just never know how people live until you catch a glimpse of it. Night fell on a dismal landscape. My heart goes out to the people of central Georgia…

Approaching the ocean in the dark, you can smell it and feel it even when you can’t see it. The aroma of sea salt and marine life is unmistakable. An arching causeway took us over tidal marshes and the Intracoastal Waterway to Jekyll Island.

It’s so very different finding a place to camp in the dark as opposed to finding a roost in the daylight. So, we stopped in a convenience store and met Tyler, who pointed out the way to the campground.

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He was a very poised and articulate young man. He listened to the story of our travels and then told us of his own experiences upon joining a carnival which roamed around the northern US and up into Western Canada. He was a kindred spirit; another traveller discovering that the journey itself is as important as the destination.

Coincidentally, Tyler’s Mom is the campground host on Jekyll Island. Since we knew her son now, we were treated like family and given a lovely, large campsite. Jean was her name; I’m sure she’s kind to everyone in this same way.

David’s early morning walk to the lee side of the island, where the Brunswick River becomes St Simon’s Sound, yielded some awesome photos, like the heron photo at the top of the post, and these:

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A dolphin made an appearance in the tidal marsh

A dolphin made an appearance in the tidal marsh

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– Jane

DAY 63 – 11/16/2012 Hiking Mt Pisgah

A comment was heard the other day on the trailhead: “A day this gorgeous in November is a gift”. A gift, indeed! We have been blessed on this journey in just this way, so many times. As readers of this blog well know, we were waylaid in New York for two weeks by a blown head gasket. Two weeks worth of ever-colder weather in November could have easily meant that our trip through the Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Carolina could have been darker and winter-y. But, instead, the days have been breathtakingly beautiful.

Here's Cold Mountain, of literary and movie fame, as seen from Mt Pisgah.

Here’s Cold Mountain, of literary and movie fame, as seen from Mt Pisgah.

Friday was such a day, sunny and mild. Cold in the morning with a shining glaze of icy white frosting on grass and leaves, the crispness wilting in the rising sun. Until late afternoon when the sun retired behind towering mountains, the gentle air gave just the barest hint of the steel grip of winter soon to come.

It’s true – the leaves, with their riot of color, are gone. The showy drama may be over, but what remains is beautiful, too. Brown and gray trees stand in relief, their branches intricate against the bright blue sky. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERARound a corner and you come upon the surprise of rich brown oak leaves, deep green pine needles and Christmas ferns, soft tan seed pods exploding and chartreuse mats of moss with their companion lichens in fairy-tale shapes.

 

Let's just call them "Shrek Ears"!

Let’s just call them “Shrek Ears”!

Friday was a day made for a hike. We had our friend, Marshall, with us. Marshall currently lives in Wilmington on the North Carolina seashore but drove west to meet us in Greensboro. From the Blue Ridge Parkway, we hiked 2-3 miles up the Shut In Trail to another trailhead leading to a 1.5 mile hike to the top of Mt Pisgah.

Friend Marshall, wearing around his waist our dorky water-bag!

Friend Marshall, wearing around his waist our dorky water-bag!

We love to mountain bike, but one of the great things we’ve found about hiking is that great conversations can be had. Well, when you’re not gasping for breath as I seem to do a lot! We hadn’t seen Marshall for seven years so we had a lot of catching up to do. He was Best Man at our wedding fourteen years ago but we had lost touch. Sure, there was the occasional phone call but we hadn’t been in each others’ company for quite a while.

Sky-high on Mt Pisgah.

Sky-high on Mt Pisgah.

David has said that Marshall is one of the most easily lovable people that he has ever met and I concur. Marshall bravely agreed to be our guest in the Tramper and spent two nights in our spare bed while traveling with us. So much fun was had! Lots of laughing…

We all wanted to see the

So, this is why I've got a cell signal! On top of Mt Pisgah, NC

So, this is why I’ve got a cell signal! On top of Mt Pisgah, NC

Museum of the Cherokee Indian in (where else) Cherokee, NC but we needed dinner and a good night’s sleep first so we threw our weary bodies into the 4Runner and found the Fort Wilderness RV Park, not far from the lavish, enormous Harrah’s Casino on the Cherokee Reservation.

– Jane

 

 

 

Here's Pisgah from the upper parking lot. The Shut-In trail led to this spot, then we hiked up to the tower.

Here’s Pisgah from the upper parking lot. The Shut-In trail led to this spot, then we hiked up to the tower.

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DAY 52 – 11/5/2012 All Ashore That’s Going Ashore!

Not every voyage goes smoothly. Well, actually, very few voyages go smoothly!  Our ‘difficulties’ have been very small and very easy to take. You don’t get to the Age of Wisdom without having weathered some problems along the way.

A bit of shameless self-promotion, recently added to the rear of the Tramper.

A bit of shameless self-promotion, recently added to the rear of the Tramper.

In perspective, this is nothing! “This” being some car trouble and then, being delayed in New York for two weeks.

The car trouble was detailed excellently by David in a previous post so I won’t make an attempt to describe it here. In brief, we blew a head gasket on the 4Runner and spent 2 weeks in Rosendale, NY waiting for the job to be finished. The shop we chose really did an excellent job. The truck runs much better and gets about 40% better gas mileage, too. So now we’ve gotten the inevitable (for such a long trip) mechanical failure out of the way, we should be good to go for, hopefully, the rest of the trip. Optimistic? Sure. But that’s how we roll!

Sunrise on Saturday morning in Rosendale. Shortly after, the sun disappeared for another day

Sunrise on Saturday morning in Rosendale. Shortly after, the sun disappeared for another day

Grey, grey weather, a hurricane and a bit of non-communication on the part of the shop were really only minor irritants. David dealt with my sinking into despair from time to time heroically, as usual. The people of Rosendale were truly lovely and we made a couple of new friends: Jay and his dog, Blue. As for the shop that repaired the 4Runner? Well, all was forgiven, in terms of leaving us on tender-hooks, the instant we got the car back!

We are “home” but not actually living in our house! We are living in the Tramper, parked in the driveway. That’s perfectly OK because the Tramper is so nice, so comfortable. And, I don’t have to move my massive box of toiletries from one place to another!

Our wonderful daughter, Olivia, is living in our house. (I’m so happy for her – she just got a really cool full-time job using her newly-minted Master’s degree! Proud!) Olivia has two roommates, so the house is full and it would be silly to sleep on the couch when we have a perfectly good bed in the driveway.

2 of my friends, Julia and Charlie

2 of my friends, Julia and Charlie

We are visiting with our beloved families and seeing a few of our neighbors and friends. I have had fun seeing my small friends who live nearby. In the neighborhood, I am “Miss Jane” and I have some boxes full of toys and books that I share with my little visitors. It makes me pretty popular with the kids but also I love to play with them. I have seen Austin and Katie and Julia and Charlie. They give me joy and joy is something that you can never get too much of!

Apropos of nothing, I include this shot of a recent meal, cooking on the Tramper stove. The pots on the front burner are part of a set given us by Alex and Daria. We use something of the set every day!

Apropos of nothing, I include this shot of a recent meal, cooking on the Tramper stove. The pots on the front burner are part of a set given us by Alex and Daria. We use something of the set every day!

In 30 more short hours, we’ll be back on the road again and headed to the balmy breezes and warm temperatures of the South. It will be good to soak up some pleasant weather before the ski season begins.

– Jane

As you can imagine, my mind raced to logistics.  All of my tools and resources were right there, 50′ up the driveway.  First I unloaded unused and redundant items.  2 pair of shorts is plenty.  2 pair of long pants is plenty.  It is with shirts that I still have 3 T-shirts, 4 long-sleeved and several hi-tech long undershirts.  Shhh, don’t tell Jane.  Then I made a pile of duplicate tools.  I even set out the Cabana, an open tent meant for beaches that I thought might have been nice in the desert.  The same desert where I’ve seen lizards and small animals leaning into an inch of shade to escape the mid-day sun.  Yes, on second thought, a Cabana wouldn’t really do much.  We’ll be re-purposing pieces of our treasured foil-bubble-foil at that point.

Other than dropping some weight, I changed the oil in the truck again.  Again because OIL is the lifeblood of a motor.  Clean oil under pressure actually prevents metal from touching metal.  The floating takes place in the “bearing clearance” usually only .002 of an inch.  To relate to that space, imagine the thickness of a piece of paper wrapped around a shaft.  However, dirty oil is liquid sandpaper.  Oil and grit can in other uses be called lapping paste and actually intentionally cut metal.  Motors don’t want that.  I changed it after only 300 miles, right after the mechanic changed it during the head gasket repair.  He did nothing wrong, but the whole disassembly process likely allowed antifreeze to leak through while waiting for the heads back from the machine shop.  Now I can put the truck back on a normal schedule.

Tomorrow I will try out a hitch purchased for our Subaru.  It is designed to transfer some of the trailer tongue weight to the front of the truck.  Perhaps we’ll like it, perhaps not.  All this truck talk may have some of you wondering, “did I buy the wrong truck?”  Maybe.  But really, we now have about 5 thousand in a 4WD SUV.  No car payments, cheap insurance, and maybe we’ll sell it when we get back?  Overall, it seems like part of the journey for me.  If we went to a car dealer, signed on the line, went to an RV dealer, signed on that line too, we might reach that point where we felt we “couldn’t afford” to do this thing.

We can’t afford not to do this thing!  Tonight I find myself excited to be on the way to the next destination…the trip itself.

– David

Autumn in New York

Millie & Les - my parents

Millie & Les – my parents

My parents had close friends who moved to New York.  Many an Autumn, they would take us kids to visit and enjoy the fall beauty.

It just so happens that David & I are now stuck in New York a little longer than we thought. The town of Rosendale couldn’t be more supportive and helpful during Sandy, the big storm bearing down on us as I write.

Also, my mom and dad loved Frank Sinatra. So, with time on my hands, I made this little tribute slideshow.

– Jane

DAY 43: 10/27/2012 The Calm Before

a still night after a long ride

a still night after a long ride

After our ride Saturday, we enjoyed sweet calm and a near-full moon over the campsite.  A beautiful sunrise snuck gleaming under the cloudline.  Here we are in Rosendale “awaiting the storm”.  Various caring family and friends worry that we should rent a car and come home (or some variant).

We’ve decided to stay our course here in NY.  Rushing South will not guarantee that we don’t wind ourselves right into the worst part of the storm or a frenzied car accident.  We are on high ground, over 100′ above the river, have inspected for dead trees and branches, and bolted down the solar panel.  I’ve found a piece of plywood to cover it with and we are willing to run or drive for better shelter as necessary.  We have a good new friend in Jason with us here, who, unlike us has a vehicle in case we should need to evacuate.

With that in mind, today was partially a cleanup/batten-down preparation day.  However, in spite of the eternal grey skies, we fully charged our solar batteries, have a full tank of propane, and have stored 5-7 days worth of water.  We will be better off than some even if power is out.  I saved the food from our freezer in Baltimore last Summer during the derecho using this camper’s propane refrigerator.  “We’re good”.

On to the day post, Jane and I did a killer bike ride Saturday.  ‘Manah-manah’ part two.  Actually the park we biked to (no car, remember) is called Mohonk Preserve.  The showcase of which is Mohonk Mountain House on the top of a mountain.  I think the showcase is the Mountain and Preserve.

The Mohonk Mountain House (perhaps the back view)

The Mohonk Mountain House (perhaps the back view)

The Mountain House looks like a 10 story compromise between decades of differing opinions.  There is a turret, a peaked roof, German timber/stucco style and innumerable other features.

Surely rife with luxury.   If the tennis court and golf course didn’t belie the depth of indulgence

A little trick for when you don't have a map: take a photo and you can scroll around it on your camera for details

A little trick for when you don’t have a map: take a photo and you can scroll around it on your camera for details

available, then the massage therapist who gave us directions or the Wheelhouse with its fleet of new Specialized Rockhopper bikes for rent lent a clue.

Our ride carried us just beyond that distant 'squared' notch near the Trapps access area.

Our ride carried us just beyond that distant ‘squared’ notch near the Trapps access area.

Funny story about the phrase; “on top of a mountain”.  Some years ago, Jane was riding with me in Susquehanna State Park.

Jane rolls the carriage trails at Mohonk

Jane rolls the carriage trails at Mohonk

We were weaving our mountain bikes up and down on the ridge along the river when fatigue overwhelmed her.  We had climbed and clawed our way up and down the 2-300 ft. elevation single track trail more than a dozen times headed back to the car.  Then, while climbing yet again, my exhausted Jane cried:  “WHERE is the parking lot? on the top of a F-ing MOUNTAIN?”  Today, once again our goal was on the top of a mountain.  You really need to hike or ride from a valley to a mountaintop sometime to understand.

The Shawangunks are an eastern climbong mecca, seen as we biked back on the Under Cliff Trail

The Shawangunks are an eastern climbong mecca, seen as we biked back on the Under Cliff Trail

This is likely a frequent view Jane is stuck with

This is likely a frequent view Jane is stuck with

I always think of Ski Roundtop or Ski Liberty in Pennsylvania as small mountains with about 600′ elevation change.  The lifts make it seem so short, I ski down in 1 and  ½ minutes (and thats not racing).  Well, hike up or bike up a 600′ elevation gain and you know its a nice long way.  The summit at Mohonk Mt. is ~1275′, several of the dips we went down into were 600′, and our little town of Rosendale sits at about 200′ above sea level.

We biked up that road down there by the barn to get this view from the top

We biked up that road down there by the barn to get this view from the top

We peddled up over a thousand feet to get up there.  The views and carriage roads made it worth it.  Then the sweep back downhill to town also repaid us in swift glee.

A downhill smile, after hours of climbing!

A downhill smile, after hours of climbing!

Ah Rosendale.  I don’t think I’ve given Rosendale the delightful credit it deserves.  We went to the Rosendale Theater Friday to see an enthusiastic, interactive Rocky Horror Picture Show.  Funny that thing won’t die.  Proving a good diversion and exposing a vibrant true community theater.  Rosendale bought the place and keeps it going with other more mainstream productions including dance, opera and plays at the edge of the Big Apple.

The town has a main street, great bike shop, barber shop, guitar shop, antique store, three convenience stores, two gas stations, a laundromat, several bars, an organic grocer and an earthy feel under the Northeast cautious attitude (also known as chill).

Main Street, Rosendale, NY

Main Street, Rosendale, NY

It has a groove, I think I could live in a place this size.

– David