Tag Archives: scenic beauty

DAYS 107 to 110 – The Push Through New Mexico

Winter is here in the West! So, New Mexico was, unfortunately given short shrift.

It’s a beautiful state. We’ve visited before, about 16 years ago with Olivia. We loved the Zuni Mountains, Jemez Springs and Santa Fe. It was in New Mexico 16 years ago that we visited the Acoma Pueblo Indian Reservation and witnessed an awesome Powwow.

But, because we worried a bit about getting into our long-term campground at Monarch Mountain in the snow, we hightailed it through the Land of Enchantment.

Our journey north took three nights of sleeping in New Mexico. Our campsites varied widely. The first night was in a good old Walmart parking lot in the town of Carlsbad.

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The night of 12/30, was much more interesting. We drove into the tiny town of Vaughn and stopped for gas. Turns out, we decided to spend the night in the gas station’s vast parking lot.

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During the night, the wind kicked up and roared across the desert, bringing a few inches of fine, dry snow with it.

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It was somewhat of a noisy night, considering the wind and the nearby train tracks! Lucky for us, they weren’t using the train horn.

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Tumbleweed! Lined up on the fences after a windy night.

The next night, on New Year’s Eve, we found ourselves in Carson National Forest not too far from Taos, NM.

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Carson National Forest

Calling this huge area a forest, in the middle of the big empty desert, was a stretch. There were not many trees! We pulled off the two-lane highway down an unpaved forest road.

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It was maybe one of the coolest free spots we’ve camped in! Away from the highway, sheltered by a couple of big juniper bushes, we rang in the New Year.

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The Rocky Mountains get bigger on the road to Monarch, Colorado.

The Rocky Mountains get bigger on the road to Monarch, Colorado.

We had about an hour of daylight left on New Year’s Day when we pulled into the Heart of the Rockies campground, just a few miles down the valley from Monarch ski mountain. We were finally in Colorado!

Here, the Tramper and Marfa, the 4Runner, will get a break from each other for the next month. We settled in, cozy in the Tramper that David made.

And now, let the skiing begin!

– Jane

DAY 106 – 12/29/2012 Carlsbad Caverns, Oh My! ?

I have no particular interest in caverns.  Went spelunking once in the 80’s with a machinist co-worker.  We entered a little slit of a grassy hole in West Virginia, slithered between a few cracks I wouldn’t be comfortable with now, descended about 80 or 100 feet into the ground to a rocky platform, where ropes would be needed to go any further.  Each of us wore a carbide lamp, so we turned them out.  DARK.  Cave-dark.  Darker than anything I’d ever seen or since.  Never had the need to do that sport again though!

Jane too wanted nothing to do with caves, holes, caverns or closed spaces of any kind.  Jean-Philippe (our trusted advisor again), assured us that it would be more like a cathedral or auditorium.  Well lit and not constricted at all.  I worried that it would be a light-show or organ music background.  I don’t usually like a natural wonder that gets over humanized or commercialized.

But here we were, driving North on the only road that made sense for where we were headed in Colorado.  Even that roadrunner and coyote gave us chuckle as if to say, “we were on the right road at the right time”.  And smack along the way were two more National Park sites where we could use our Parks Pass.  Quadalupe Peak looked beautiful and is the highest point in Texas.  We had arrived too late in the day to hike the whole round trip to the summit.  We don’t feel the draw to become “peak-baggers”, just love those tough hikes when the time is right.  So as we left, both of us looked likely to mosey on into the cavern at Carlsbad, New Mexico.

Access is from a mountain ridge with a big parking lot.  A big, full parking lot.  We sort of forget that this is a holiday week.  Lines snaking along ropes led to a smiling ranger who graciously gave us our tickets “free” after checking my I.D.and National Parks Annual Pass.  While waiting we read about several options including 4-6 hour King’s Tours with a ranger, but also some shorter options.  A glaring flat screen message blinked through some sales options and also a Big Red Warning to expect LONG WAITS at the elevator to come back up!

We saw another option even though we had only arrived just after 2:00 in the afternoon.  Hiking in or out through the natural entrance was allowed.  The overall distance covered would be about 1 ½ miles each way and descend over 750′ into the cavern.  Cool! It was going to be like hiking an upside-down mountain!  We’d much rather hike than ride an elevator anyway.

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The entrance has been kept nearly the same as when it was “found” by white explorers.  There IS evidence of Native American use, but not very deep and not very conclusive as to who, when and how much.  Shards from pottery from varied sources have been inconclusive.  were they “real finds” or discoverers looking for attention?

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The only way to descend any great amount in a short distance is with looping switchbacks.  And those switchbacks did LOOP!  The surface was asphalt, dry and very grippy.  The trail about 40″ wide and lined with a nice steel rail everywhere it counted.  True to word, the place is “cavernous”.  BIG, HIGH, WIDE in places.  Mostly dry and a general constant temperature, but a welcome 90% humidity, particularly after weeks of desert dryness at less than 30%.

Describing the formations is about as silly as the process of naming some of them.  Kinda like cloud-watching metaphors.  I’ll let the pictures do their magic, leave out my 1000 words.  Suffice to say, we went all the way down into and around the big room and enjoyed that hike back out!  Jane continues to impress me with her growth as a hiker.  She really rebuilt her heart after that darned chemo (It had snuffed her cardiac Ejection fraction from a baseline of 72% down to below 50%, and a healthy normal average is about 65%).   We were passed by only one guy, a runner, all sweaty and breathing hard. Jane paused only about twice on 2 of the many, many stone benches on the way back to our world.

– David

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DAY 105 – 12/28/2012 McDonald Observatory in the Davis Mountains of Texas

We found out a couple of months ago that many scientific celestial observatories are open to the public on Friday and Saturday nights. How could I have lived my whole life never knowing that fact? Oh, well, I know now. So, I’d been trying to coordinate an observatory night into our schedule.

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On our last night in Texas, we visited the McDonald Observatory in the far west. www.mcdonalobservatory.org It’s part of the University of Texas, Austin and is used to research the chemistry of stars and planets. White dwarf stars, the composition of gas clouds in space and supergiant stars, among other things. The two immense telescopes are used for research. We were going to look through the smaller, though still awesome to us, telescopes.

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We signed up for a Star Party. Sounds good doesn’t it? McDonald Observatory is at the top of a mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain.

Not our photo. We were driving up the other side of the mountain. And it was getting dark.

So, in consideration for our fellow attendees, we started on the road up an hour early, so as not to cause a mile-long traffic jam behind our slow-moving rig. Marfa (we finally named our 4Runner) did a good job dragging the Tramper up the mountain as the sun set.

We suited up for the outdoor Star Party. The weather was unseasonably cold. Lows in the teens!

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We had a large, jolly group on this Christmas break weekend. Ten more folks and we would have had a record crowd! We sat in an outdoor amphitheater. The nearly full moon was the brightest light for miles around. Low, red lights were all the artificial light there was on the mountain. Even the surrounding towns had ordinances forbidding excessive outdoor lighting.

So, even though the shining moon masked lots of stars that night, we still had a beautiful show above us.

The Star Party began with a lecture in the amphitheater.

This isn't our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don't have the skills to take a pic like this!

This isn’t our photo. It comes from the McDonald Obs. website. We just don’t have the skills to take a pic like this!

The astronomer giving the tour of the sky had a green laser pointer that seemed to extend a line all the way up to the individual star he was talking about! He pointed out Jupiter and the zodiac constellations. I have imagined that I saw red and orange in Orion’s left shoulder this whole trip as we gazed at night into starlit skies in the wild places. I got validated at the Star Party. Betelgeuse is actually a red supergiant, with visible color!

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website "Betelgeuse"

Again, not our photo. This one is from the Sol Company website “Betelgeuse”

Belatrix is his right shoulder. Also, I finally saw Polaris, the North Star.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations "rotate" around it.

This one is from Instructables.com. It shows what we learned, that the North Star is constant, while the other constellations “rotate” around it.

After the lecture, we went around to ten different telescopes focused on amazing things in the sky. We saw Jupiter’s bands of clouds.

(not our photo)

(not our photo)

We saw four of Jupiter’s most visible moons. Io, Callisto, Ganymede and Europa.

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We saw the surface of the moon.

NOAA photo

NOAA photo

As it was not quite full, we saw a profile of one surface.

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Wikipedia photo

We saw the Andromeda galaxy, the closest galaxy outside out Milky Way.

Although we couldn't photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

Although we couldn’t photograph what we saw, we tried to find photos that most closely resembled what we viewed through the telescopes

The Orion nebula.

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After we had seen our fill, we went back to the Tramper for the drive down the other side of the mountain. We met a UT policeman who drove by to tell us he liked our trailer. He was the only security for miles around and he suggested a picnic spot off the mountain road where we could camp for the night. Not what we expected! Security usually makes sure that no one camps where they’re not supposed to, not encourage us to do it!

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It was a lovely spot. The next morning, we hit the road, bound for New Mexico.

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On this highway across the desert, within three minutes of each other, we saw a coyote and we saw a road runner! No joke! It was coincidentally ironic. (Can you use those two words together?). Maybe they were engaged in the classic cartoon battle?!

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– Jane

DAYS 102-103 12/25-26/2012 Mountain Biking the Texas Desert

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While I know we rode but a small taste of this place in just a few days, we think we got a good feel for the desert riding of Texas.  For advice we relied on Jean-Philippe back at College Station so long ago, and Desert Sports near Terlingua.  Both mentioned the “warmup” trails East of the park entrance.  The Lajitas Golf resort and Spa has created a very nice network near the airport there!  (a very private, small and empty airport at that…not a single plane was seen or heard in the three days we were there)

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The Lajita trails includes loops, stacked loops and bailouts to allow a taste of any size without forcing a poison dose upon the rider.  The surface was hard, dry and packed enough to roll fast.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAParts were tiny fractured flat rock bits that Jane deemed riding on Scrabble tiles. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe 18″ wide curvy single track could have been weaved anywhere between the tough, scrappy, low desert growths.  But knowing how fragile the desert is, nearly everyone stays right on the trail.  We blasted about up and down what was probably only 1 or 200′ of rise and fall, making for flowy fun, fun, fun!!!

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The flora is surprisingly diverse.  My favorite is Ocotilla, a thicket-like bush that seems to grow everywhere, but favor those ridge lines where you might expect Indians to rise and run down over the plain.  Fences and Ramadas are often made of this nasty, thorny stalk and Jane noticed some of the fences coming back to life.  The hardy stalk seems to need little moisture and in place, wired into a structure starts to sprout if it touches the ground!  Wow!  Desert life surprises constantly.  We saw a few different tiny and intricate flowers thriving inches from the trail too.  I couldn’t help but share my Camelbak water during my rest stops…bet they bloom again next week.  Kinda like those little shrunken sponge toys that grow to ten times their size.

The next day we thought we’d head for the Contrabando (yes, like contraband, or smugglers goods) Trails System.  I wanted to ride in from the West gate, ride around the Contrabando Dome and back out.  We wondered a bit why not many cars parked there.  an early start led us into gravelly, then rocky, then sandy washes or draws.  As we headed further in without the gleeful paybacks of sinewy buff trail, we contemplated where this was leading.  we gave it another half hour before turning back.  We “threw” the bikes quickly into the 4Runner sans Tramper, and drove hastily to the East Trailhead.

Two or three parked trucks confirmed what we’d been seeing this week.  this is where riders start.  Right off onto the Dog Cholla Trail, we weaved along terraces and tumbled through a few washes.  The ratio was better though, we got what we came for!  And More!  The Crystal Trail was sparkling and spectacular!  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAgain, bench cut joy riding around and up the shoulders of those spotty green-grey hills.  It was so weird that one of them was COVERED IN CRYSTALS.  And so hard NOT to pick one up as a souvenir.

We are so blessed to be riding this stuff.  It seemed petty to bail out on that first ride….But it sure paid off!

-David

DAYS 99 & 100 – 12/22-23/2012 Hiking Big Bend National Park

THE STARS AT NIGHT – ARE BIG AND BRIGHT -(clap, clap, clap, clap) – DEEP IN THE HAAAARRT OF TEXAS!

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I couldn’t resist adding that! Because, the stars really are big and they really are bright here in Southwest Texas. Of course, anywhere in the world the stars are bigger and brighter out in the country with little or no lights. But Texas is one of those Western states where the sky is really big; the better to enjoy the nighttime display.

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We camped at 5,400 feet above sea level in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend NP, the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. All around us was the Chihuahuan Desert, arid and hostile to life.

The Chisos Range provides an oasis of sorts, protecting small scrubby trees and hardy plants and catching water from the infrequent rains.

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At the Pour-Off. Careful, it’s slippery and a long way down!

Arriving from Marathon in the afternoon, we set up camp and took a short hike on the Window Trail. The window refers to the Basin “pour-off” where rainwater drains out of the valley to the desert below.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

The campground was nearly full. Camping for Christmas seems so odd to me but, I come from an area where it’s cold and damp in the winter, sometimes snowy.

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Here in south Texas, the days are in the 70’s to 80’s and the nights get only cool. So, camping at Christmas is a treat that probably takes them a little out of the holiday frenzy.

Next day, we took on the Emory Peak hike; 11 miles and 2,500 ft elevation. It took us six hours to complete the circuit.

Iris tags along

Iris tags along

The day was gorgeous and the people we met on the trail were delightful. Of course, everyone was on vacation, doing something fun and challenging so of course we were all happy!

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

There’s no mountain biking in the national park, so we set out for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

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You drive through the desert to get there, through tiny, sun-baked towns. We met a transplanted Marylander in a small grocery store in Terlingua. She and her Texan co-worker agreed that not everyone who decides to leave their home and move to South Texas stays.

Terlingua cemetery

Terlingua cemetery

It’s quite a different world. No shopping to speak of, no movie theater, no gym, no hospital, no big sports venues, no new car dealer, etc, etc. Baking hot summers. Isolation aplenty.

– Jane