Tag Archives: nature

DAY 162 – 02/19/2013 – Mesa Verde, CO

A long time ago, I was talking with a patient who was telling me about her extensive travels around the U.S. I asked “What was the most wonderful place you have visited?”. She said, without hesitation, “Mesa Verde!”. It was the most beautiful place she’d ever been.

So when our random travels took us near, we stopped to take a look.

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We toured Spruce Tree House ruins. One of 4,000 sites of archaeological significance in the park.

And Mesa Verde is beautiful! I probably would not go so far as to say it’s the most beautiful place we’ve seen. But it’s certainly way up there!

It’s interesting that the very best thing about Mesa Verde was – our Park Ranger guide! Ranger Sean Duffy of Rochester, NY was not only chock full of deep knowledge about the park, he gave us a really great performance of his informative tour. It’s as if he’d trained as an actor. He really animated what might have been a dry (no pun intended, it’s very dry out West!) talk. It was fun and funny and by the end, we wanted more!

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Sean Duffy gives us some background and insight.

Here’s something that Sean taught us, in his own inimitable way: Do you remember hearing about the mysterious Anasazi people? The ones who inhabited the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde and then disappeared forever into history? There was much speculation about who they were and where they went. Was it climate change? Disease? They vacated these beautiful villages long before Europeans arrived with their guns and germs and Manifest Destiny.

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Spruce Tree House ruins are in the bottom of this canyon. At the top is the ranger station where our tour began.

Now, however, anthropologists believe that, for whatever reason, they just moved elsewhere. That the Anasazi, now called Ancestral Puebloan, are the distant relatives of the Ute, Hopi, Acoma and Navajo people. Now these tribes live in the surrounding area; in Arizona, Utah and other Western states.

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Sean expounds at the ruins. Behind him you can see the remnants of yellow and red paint on the dwelling walls.

Sean was able to answer questions on any subject. Park history, natural history, geologic formations, botanical questions about trees and plants. He was quite the font of knowledge.

Mesa Verde National Park included lots of landscape around the ruins. This beautiful mesa is sacred to the native people of the Southwest.

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The beautiful Visitor Center, with the sacred Mesa Verde in view.

The gorgeous, brand new (it opened 7 weeks before we visited) Visitor Center was built to be as environmentally friendly as possible and highly respectful of the places Native Americans hold as precious.

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We climbed down into a kiva, a room with a fire hole and a sipapu, a portal where spirits rise from one world to the next.

Mesa Verde manifests, for the visiting Easterner, compelling echoes of the past while presenting the spirituality of one of the most gorgeous places in the American West. Does that sound a little like a National Parks brochure? Maybe, but it’s all vividly true!

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A modern metal sculpture in the desert near Mesa Verde.

– Jane

DAY 160 2/17/2013 Durango Colorado

Serendipity landed us in the welcome parking direction arms of Geno from Maine as he guided us into Durango’s Lower Columbine lot.  “Just pa-ahk near the back and it’ll be fine”.  We visited and I particularly enjoyed the Main-ah pronunciation of “Mon-aww-rch” as we told him our little story.  The usual glint formed in his eyes as we went up toward that nice dinner at the resort and a good nights cozy sleep.

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Durango proved to be a very nice ski area, I’m glad they cling a bit to their old name, Purgatory.  Dante’s, Limbo, Hades, and Pitchfork among others make for a fun theme of trail names.  The most notable terrain feature though are the shelves.

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves above the Village

Every trail seems to roll along, flowing from gentle to sudden steep pitches.  Dropping out from under you, over and over.  Rolly-polly, undulating ground leading lower and lower.  Such fun to let the skis lead me down, pressing my legs sideways to compress a pre-jump and stay on the ground.  Maybe you had to be there, maybe you had to see it,

The next day we had the distinct joy of lunch in town with Christy and Steve, friends of my sister Meg.  We laughed and bubbled through dozens of stories.  Included, of course, was their own early trip into Durango that led to moving here and leaving the family/company arms of the also incredible Merritt company/family!  They have skied, worked, sailed the Caribbean living on a sailboat for a year and and seem to have that same sense for life that leads to daily joy also. Kindred.  We really hope to visit with them again.  I may have to buy Meg a plane ticket out here to press her to take her own visit with them and to see Colorado.

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Our own lack of planning almost made us miss out on that lunch.  After skiing, night fell quickly and our “serendipitous selves” hadn’t found a “campsite”.  We sometimes hide, sometimes park in plain sight.  That eve I thought a parking spot under a streetlight on Fort Lewis College looked un-noticeable.  Ha!  At 9:30 a campus security officer knocked on our door (First time on the whole trip!) and gave us an “out”.  “You’re not planning on sleeping here are you?”  There is a city ordinance against “camping” anywhere inside city limits.  Thank goodness for Walmart! We found a store 3 miles away and didn’t have to drive far so tired. (This is the second city that seems bent upon keeping campers and Trampers from sleeping peacefully, Saint Augustine, FL was first).

-David

DAY 157 – 02/14/2013 – Arf, Arf, Valentine

We saw an ad for dog sled rides at Monarch so we signed right up. A few years ago, I took a dog sled ride in Snowmass. And it was fantastic!

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Sled dogs in their travel kennel

Before taking that ride in Snowmass, my initial impression of dog sled rides went something like this: “Oh, the poor doggies! Made to pull fat Americans through the heavy snow!” But, Olivia and I needed a break from skiing so we decided to try it and see just how bad it was for he dogs.

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Well, of course I soon found out how wrong my initial impression was. That’s what happens when you make a judgement without any real facts – it’s often way off the mark! The dogs absolutely love to pull the sled!

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The outfit we used here is called Monarch Dog Sled Rides. All of the pictures on this post are from our ride at Monarch. Down from Alaska, Caleb Hathaway started the business here last year. His dogs are not Huskies; they’re mostly wonderful Alaskan-bred mutts. 

Caleb Hathaway

Caleb Hathaway

David and I were given time to meet and pet every one of the beautiful dogs before we loaded into the sled. The dogs are so friendly! I got lots of doggy kisses and love. We even got to put on a harness or two. Wow, those dogs were so excited to be hitched up for a run!

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Our musher was Chad. He spends winters with the dogs and summers kayaking white water. Speaks French, too. Such a life!

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Chad – dog musher, river rat, adventurer

Chad chatted us up during the ride, explaining about the dogs and what their life is like. These are happy dogs! They live to run and pull the sled.

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Caleb brought the dogs as puppies from Alaska. He had experience training teams for the Iditarod and decided that Monarch needed a dog sled outfit. They were lovingly raised to do what they were born to do – run!

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We’re so glad he did for we loved our ride through the winter woods with the beautiful dogs! They took off joyfully, with ears bobbing, tails bouncing and tongues flapping.

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Thinking about the Iditarod maybe?

David was wondering how many dogs it would take to pull the Tramper??

– Jane

DAY 152 – 02/09/2013 – POW!

Every day here at Monarch Mountain in Colorado is actually pretty much the same. We wake up, putter around the Tramper for awhile, then go ski. After hours of fun in the snow, we come home, eat good food and go to sleep. That’s about it! Eat, ski, eat, sleep, repeat. How lucky can you get?! This life is idyllic. If I could transport myself through space and time to Maryland, in June, for just a few days a month to enjoy some gentle weather, life would be darn near perfect!!

My last post was a little whine-y. How could anyone on a 6 month vacation have much of anything to complain about? So here, in words and pictures, is another day in paradise:

When we left for the mountain this morning, it was snowing! Everybody at a ski resort is so happy when it’s snowing! The lifties smile even more than usual, their badge readers pinging merrily as the skiers and boarders line up for some glee.

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POW! for powder snow!

“POW!” for powder snow! At the top of the Panorama lift

The skiers and boarders are very happy.

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone's happy it's snowing

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone’s happy it’s snowing

David and I sure are happy!

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Yep, falling snow makes everyone here happy. Even the people who live and work in the town, Salida, are happy because their livelihood depends on it, winter and summer. (The Arkansas River which runs through this valley it bigger, deeper and faster in the summer for the kayak and rafting enthusiasts, when there’s lots of snow the winter before. Better river = more tourist dollars.)

Now, David and I obviously enjoy fresh snow. Skiing in powder is different from skiing on packed powder, which is how they describe snow that’s been around for a while. We love the fast, hard snow that makes you use the ski to power thrilling, fast runs. Big, arcing turns on hard snow feels like flying! It seems like snowboarders, except for the really good ones who can carve a turn, need fresh powder snow more than the average skier. So, today, the boarders were in their element, too.

We saw a friend David made on the mountain.

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

The high-tension power lines that climb up and over Monarch Pass were singing today! If you stop under them, you can hear the snow and wind making them hum quite audibly. I googled it and it seems the snow and wind can cause excess oscillations and “moments” as the power is transferred along the line. Interesting phenomenon, and it sounds pretty cool, but we moved on!

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Unusual for us, we went out this evening with some Colorado friends! We’re old and we are tired at the end of the ski day, so we usually go back to the Tramper and entertain ourselves until bedtime. But, Marci and Gabe, our friends from Monroe, LA, and Jeff, our friend from Colorado via Texas, were going out to see a band.

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. Don't know who belongs to that head in the background

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. (Don’t know who belongs to that head in the background)

Live music is something we love, so off we drove into the dark snowy night to a Salida bar called River’s Edge.  “Ethyl & the Regulars” were playing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe heard it was to be Swing music. Now, ‘swing music’ to an Easterner is a band with trumpets and trombones and timid guitars.  Not so the Western variety!

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No ‘swing’ band in Baltimore has this pedal steel guitar in it! The didn’t swing, they swang!!

Dancing, too!

Dancing, too!

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Singing cowboy

We had a blast! But, even over the music, we could hear the mountain calling. We would ski again tomorrow.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

So, we left Salida to return to the Tramper. But not before taking in the giant light above the river on Tenderfoot mountain.  It might not look like much in the photo, but imagine the dark mountain against the black sky, with a giant letter spelled out in lights. “S” for Salida.

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“Big Red Heart” for Heart of the Rockies.

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Apparently, it’s a western thing…

– Jane

P.S. – We saw a grey fox in the campsite the other night. He stopped by long enough for David to call me to bring a flashlight. What a beauty he was! Of course, he didn’t stay around long enough for a picture, but I found a photo online that looks just like him:

Fox Wild Ed

He is much bigger than our red foxes at home in Maryland and his tail and fur were very puffy in the cold. I really wanted to give him some ham, but, of course, that would have been a big no-no! I thanked him for stopping by.

DAY 130 – 01/22/2013 – Hot Springs and Cold Nights

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When it’s cold outside, a soak in a hot spring is blissful.

Our ski adventures have often included a “tap water” hot tub for apres ski. Colorado, as our cousin Huntly reminded us, has many beautiful, natural hot springs. Since the 19th century, Coloradans have piped the spring waters into recreational pools.

Located in the town of Salida, in the Arkansas River Valley, just a few miles from our RV park, is the Salida Pool.

Pool-front

Unlike the pools back home, the Salida pool is fed through 7 miles of pipe from springs high on Poncha Pass. The water is clear and hot and oh so good for your body.

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Native Americans enjoyed the hot springs long before this facility was built in 1937, during the Great Depression. Numerous updates over the years have resulted in these spring-fed pools.

Fresh spring water constantly flows into the pool

Fresh spring water constantly flows into the pool

The exercise pool is 90 degrees F. The soaking pool is around 102 degrees.

David enjoys the soaking pool

David enjoys the soaking pool

A week or so after our Salida pool experience, we used a coupon that came with the Monarch Pass to try out Mt Princeton Hot Springs, a few miles down the valley at the base of, where else, Mt Princeton.

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Our campground is temporarily without hot water for showers. A 20-year-old hot water heater failed. Since every pool facility also has hot showers, off we went to sample more of the local waters.

Mt Princeton facility

Mt Princeton facility

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Mt Princeton. From mtprinceton.org

Mt Princeton is part of the Collegiate Peaks of the Sawatch Range in the Colorado Rockies. Mounts Harvard, Yale, Columbia and Princeton are  “fourteeners”; peaks above 14,000 ft tall. And they are breathtakingly beautiful, one and all!

Chalk Creek

Chalk Creek, in an image from Colorado Guy.com

The source water for the Mt Princeton pools is Chalk Creek, originating up on the Continental Divide. Numerous hot springs pour into the creek. Some are diverted for the exercise and soaking pools.

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The exercise pool, 90 degrees, in the background. The soaking pool, 100 degrees, in the foreground. Image from the Mt Princeton website.

Many other natural hot springs feed right into the cold creek. If you scramble down a short, rocky embankment, you can also bathe in the warm pools along the sides of the creek.

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Chalk Creek pools, seen in the daytime, in a photo from the Mt Princeton springs site. We were there at night.

We were told to feel free to rearrange the rocks for just the right mix of cold creek and hot spring.

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Wow. A soak in nature’s hot tub under the starry, moonlit sky was just the balm we needed after many days of skiing!

– Jane

P.S. – Don’t worry, Huntly! Soon we are going to try Valley View Hot Springs, an even more “natural” hot spring. After that, we may graduate to an “off-the-grid” spring that we’ll have to hike to.