DAY 29 – 10/13/2012 Acadia National Park

I think I know how I would describe the difference between two of Maine’s parks that we’ve visited – Baxter State Park and Acadia National Park.

Beautiful Acadia

Beautiful Acadia

We’ve been to both very recently. They look somewhat different. Baxter has taller mountains and Acadia is by the ocean. I say ‘somewhat different’ because they are, after all, in the same state and not all that far from each other. Less than 200 miles. So the vegetation looks quite similar and both have a lot of rocks.

But, in other ways they are very different. Baxter is a vast, undeveloped wilderness. You can lose yourself in the wild for a long time. (But, of course, the rangers still need to know where you’re going and for how long. If you go missing they will eventually start looking for you. And probably charge you for the expensive search process!)

imagesAcadia, on the other hand, is a great, happy playground for grown ups! It’s quite beautiful, like Baxter, and they try to keep it as wild as possible. But there are hundreds of well-marked and well-used trails to hike.

On the Acadia Carriage Roads

On the Acadia Carriage Roads

At Eagle Lake in Acadia

At Eagle Lake in Acadia

Many, many miles of carriage roads to bike on. Rock climbs to scramble and rock climbs on which to use your advanced skills and ropes.

Lakes, streams, ponds and brooks abound. There’s a sand beach and long, rocky shores to explore.

Giant cruise ship in Frenchman's Bay

Giant cruise ship in Frenchman’s Bay

You can fly over, helicopter over, sail around and drive around all the scenic areas in Acadia.

People take charter buses and even cruise ships to get there. Nothing is really inaccessible. And, it’s so much fun! All the happy vacationers at Acadia are friendly and relaxed – because they’re at the playground!

Another beautiful, rocky trail. See that blue mark? That's the way up and over left!

Another beautiful, rocky trail. See that blue mark? That’s the way up and over left!

Oh, there are friendly people at Baxter also. But, when you come across a person at Baxter, you greet each other almost with surprise. “Oh, look, another person!”

In Acadia, people abound. And it’s lovely. Maine is a place that we travel to quite a bit so we’ll be going back to Acadia, taking some nieces with us!

– Jane

We Are Now P.O.W.

That’s People of Walmart!

We have been that snobby type of person who will not shop at Walmart because we consider them part of the “evil empire” (Verizon is, in our snotty opinion,  another part of the evil empire, for different reasons).

2012-11-15T194238Z_2_CBRE8AE0XZ100_RTROPTP_3_WALMART_originalThey, Walmart, have probably caused the demise of many small, locally owned businesses. They take up a vast amount of open space in previously rural areas, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah…

But, lucky for us, Walmart has a policy that allows campers/trailers to stay overnight in their parking lot. We were enroute from Baxter to Acadia National Park. It was late and we were tired.

So, it was with some reluctance, but with gratitude also, that we pulled into the Walmart in Bangor, Maine. The contrast between “camping” in the Walmart parking lot and camping in the wilds of Baxter State Park could not have been more dramatic. Yellowstone 2011 050Noise, lights, and a parking lot cleaning machine roaring past repeatedly soon after the store closed made for some culture shock!

We actually did go shopping at our Walmart host store. It was the least we could do. Of course, that’s their plan. Pull in, shop, stay the night and shop again in the morning. We fell right in line with that plan and so now we are People of Walmart!

– Jane

I just had to add; the first Bangor gas station had a huge caterpillar treaded jack hammer going, cars rushing in and out, and all of the city cascades.  Once driving and looking for a shoe store, we were immersed.  The likely prospect was in a mall!  They were hosting a Breast Cancer Benefit Dance, so I was wishing Jane had on her Survivor tee-shirt.

Then, after three trips back into the Walmart hardware department for screws etc. (I installed a shoe bag organizer among other details) we found ourselves in the Tramper.  Foil over the windows to block light and once again, we slept great in our comfy bungalow.

– David

Day 26, 10/10/2012 Baxter State Park, Maine

DAY 26 – 10/10/2012 Baxter State park, ME (Trout Run Camping Area)

My first foray out in the dawn was frosty and special.  Each and every blade of grass, leaf, blossom, pine needle, and every acre of Fall-tinged wildflowers were delicately iced with sparkling frost in the severe blue morning light.  Even the now-trusty 4Runner was frosted.  I wandered around quietly taking macro pictures to share until I had to retreat and make our first coffee.

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

David in the frosty rear-view mirror

We did move at our relaxed morning pace, had the truck unhitched and driving to a trailhead to start just before 10.

We selected a tough climb, circuit hike with a suggested turn-back spot to help us decide how much to bite off.  Nearly the entire climb was talus, loose boulders, small cliffs and crags requiring at least three limbs climbing.

Jane "making" one of the harder bits

Jane “making” one of the harder bits

The valley was at 1000′ above sea level, while the top of what we ended up scaling was at 3254.  The climb was perhaps the steepest at this end of the park and provided ample bouldering, scampering and ultimately whimpering until the summit of the main ridge gave us a view of the whole park South and the weather on its way in.  “40 percent chance of showers” never stops us from starting what we hope to do each day.  (Can’t tell you how many great rides, hikes, and overall trips we’ve had despite nay-saying weather forecasts.)

100_7074We chose to turn back for the bottom where we started (had hiked 4 point-some miles of the 10.4 we had intended), because the next 2 miles forward were the most exposed, above tree line portion where there has been snow and ice already this week.  And so, settled for a SAFE and successful 8 mile, out-and-back instead of a questionable circuit into weather and late afternoon.  We have youthful desires and energy, but no bull-headed “egos” to push us beyond the bounds of safety.  We knew going downhill on WET or snowy rocks, particularly in the dark would not be smart.  Arriving back at the car at 3:30 spent plenty of our energy as our rubber legs begged for rest and dinner.

 

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"Here comes the weather..."

“Here comes the weather…”

What an oasis is the Tramper.  Radiant heat is immediate, we were never cold as OJ, peanut butter and jelly gave the energy to make our actual dinner.

– David

DAY 25 – 10/9/2012 Fredericton, N.B. to Baxter State Park, ME

We were reluctant to leave David’s cousin Gordon and his girlfriend, Jackie, in Fredericton, New Brunswick, but also, we were eager to continue the Tramper Voyage.

Gordon is as gracious as he can be. We felt very welcome in his home.

Gordon and Jackie's lovely garden

Gordon and Jackie’s lovely garden

He’s very fit and active into his seventies so we really enjoyed hiking with him. David hadn’t seen Gordon for many years and we’d never met Jackie but we were warm friends right away. I love it when that happens!!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJust before crossing the border, we saw a sign for the World’s Largest Axe in Nackawic, N.B. Naturally, we had to go see it! My daughter always finds fun, funky things while on the road. The World’s Largest Chest of Drawers, Foam-henge, etc. Visiting the Axe was a must.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Funny story about the border crossing. Not as funny as the Bay of Fundy Aunt Margaret story but sort of odd. We forgot to pack our passports when we left Baltimore. You might think this was an epic fail, but I was only one day post-biopsy when we left. The anesthesia had barely worn off. Also, David had a whirlwind 2 weeks getting the 4Runner ready after the neighbor’s Land Cruiser proved to have too many problems to be a good Tramper puller. Every day in port was a wasted day of the Tramper Voyage!

So, our leave-taking from Baltimore was, you might say, a bit rushed. Months of planning, one day of shoving everything in.

We had no passports. We had forgotten to pack the passports! No problem. Yet. Olivia mailed them to Augusta, Maine to my brother. Only, they had expired in March. Also, we were unaware that, in 2009, the border-crossing rules had changed. You needed a passport to get back into the U.S.

Even though a USPS official in Augusta told us that, with his official stamped and signed photocopies of our passports we would be able to get back in, we held our breath a bit when we passed through US Customs. You can’t hold your breath too much, however, because you don’t want to raise any red flags with the Border Patrol.

imagesWe tried to look and sound normal and I guess we succeeded because the very nice officer waved us back in to the U.S.! Phew!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

Please click to really appreciate this photo!

As the sun was setting, we drove into the magnificent Baxter State Park. It is 200,000 acres of unspoiled land in North Central Maine.

100_7102Most of the land surrounding Baxter is pretty empty as well. Baxter, unlike other  state parks, does not have camper hookups, electricity or running water.

100_7053The campsites are few and primitive . Only a couple of gravel of roads run through the park. It is entered by only 2 gates, at the Northeast border and at the Southern border.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

That little silver box in the distance is the Tramper.

We parked the Tramper in a large meadow as darkness fell. We turned out the lights and the stars were extravagant and amazing! The woods were completely quiet and dark. I stepped outside again in the middle of the night and there were the big, sparkling stars again, even brighter than before.

By this time it was quite cold but I could not go back inside until I drank in more of the quiet beauty of the deep Baxter night.

-Jane

Day 23 10/7/2012 Fundy National Park, Cousins, Waterfalls, and another Brick for Jane and David

I wanted to meet my father’s cousin from Fredericton, NB.  My last visit from him was when I was about 12 years old.  He came to visit my aunt Peg, his grandfather and my family.  Then, he signified all the cool things about being grown up.  He laughed, talked about Ski-doos, camping, and fishing.  He and his brother even had candy branded with wrappers I’d never seen.  He was very nice and his ways lured my interest North even way back then.

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

Jackie and Gordon join us for a post-pic at an overlook

By last-minute phone I agreed to have Gordon and Jackie come to meet us for breakfast in the grandeur of Canada’s Fundy National Park.  Each of us alone could have been loquacious but all squeezed into the Tramper (4 at the dinette, Gordon, Jackie, J-P, Anne, then Jane and I on the mini camping bench at the head) made for a laughing, warm time with real Pennsylvania ?, maple syrup and a pace that none of really thought about.  After such a relaxed breakfast, both sets of guests were left with time for only a “little nature hike”.  Dickson Falls provided a stupendously beautiful spot.  Not a huge falls, but hugely beautiful.  My biggest treat was stepping back, taking pictures and picturing people gaining the intended benefit of a park.  All were ambling gently around, each pointing at their own sense of what to notice, chatting and being people with a shared, communal smile.  Anyone who designs or preserves parks would be happy celebrating the scene.

Perhaps my most reassuring moments were Gordon talking about his life style.  He takes no medications, lives in that unplanned, but willing way of allowing good moments into your day.  I won’t say his age, but at my 51, if I get to stay active and enjoy like he, I will celebrate a life of more than I expect or deserve.  Gordon’s inspiration to my youth continues today as he Lives every day seemingly without concern nor plans for what he should be doing.  He golfs regularly,  almost daily.  Exercises on a “Healthrider” every day (maybe only 5 minutes in good weather, but more through the deep Canada Winter).

100_6937After our brief hike our visitors had to get going their ways.  Jane and I said some sad goodbyes, Thanksgiving here is tomorrow, so it seems they all have commitments.  We drove off on the small bumpy highway 114 to let our decisions make themselves for the day.  I lazily thought, its cold, let’s leave the bikes in the truck (it takes about 5 minutes to get them out and reassemble them) and do a hike.  We did notice a trail on the map listed as “mountain biking” though and as we parked at Bennett Brook, decided to ride.  Overall the trail was 5.3 kilometers in to arrive at the confluence of Bennett Brook and the Pointe Wolfe River.  It started as a “lawn”, a mowed trail wide enough for a 4 wheeler, transistioned into some nice root/rocky mt. biking, then a fine blasting tree-line old road down to a point where no bikes were allowed.  It made sense as we hiked (hiding our bikes up in the woods above the trail) down some very tight and twisty switchbacks.  We descended steeply through mossy, ferny, nice places to find the ford below.

Another peek of Dickson Falls

Another peek of Dickson Falls

The ridges and hike probably dropped ~1000 feet into the valley.  A nice middle to our Brick of Bike, Hike, Bike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blasting, tree lined downhill

Blasting, tree lined downhill

The only problem was hiking difficult trails with the cleated, slippery bike shoes.  Caution was the theme and no injuries or falls occurred .  The green beauty gave us rewards for our crawl-pace, near tip-toe hike in bike shoes that anyone who has ever walked in such could identify with.

– David

 

 

 

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

The Point Wolfe River at the bottom of the hike

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Bennett Brook