DAY 160 2/17/2013 Durango Colorado

Serendipity landed us in the welcome parking direction arms of Geno from Maine as he guided us into Durango’s Lower Columbine lot.  “Just pa-ahk near the back and it’ll be fine”.  We visited and I particularly enjoyed the Main-ah pronunciation of “Mon-aww-rch” as we told him our little story.  The usual glint formed in his eyes as we went up toward that nice dinner at the resort and a good nights cozy sleep.

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Apres Ski Smiles, Durango Style!

Durango proved to be a very nice ski area, I’m glad they cling a bit to their old name, Purgatory.  Dante’s, Limbo, Hades, and Pitchfork among others make for a fun theme of trail names.  The most notable terrain feature though are the shelves.

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves

Afternoon sun gleams on the rolling terrain shelves above the Village

Every trail seems to roll along, flowing from gentle to sudden steep pitches.  Dropping out from under you, over and over.  Rolly-polly, undulating ground leading lower and lower.  Such fun to let the skis lead me down, pressing my legs sideways to compress a pre-jump and stay on the ground.  Maybe you had to be there, maybe you had to see it,

The next day we had the distinct joy of lunch in town with Christy and Steve, friends of my sister Meg.  We laughed and bubbled through dozens of stories.  Included, of course, was their own early trip into Durango that led to moving here and leaving the family/company arms of the also incredible Merritt company/family!  They have skied, worked, sailed the Caribbean living on a sailboat for a year and and seem to have that same sense for life that leads to daily joy also. Kindred.  We really hope to visit with them again.  I may have to buy Meg a plane ticket out here to press her to take her own visit with them and to see Colorado.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our own lack of planning almost made us miss out on that lunch.  After skiing, night fell quickly and our “serendipitous selves” hadn’t found a “campsite”.  We sometimes hide, sometimes park in plain sight.  That eve I thought a parking spot under a streetlight on Fort Lewis College looked un-noticeable.  Ha!  At 9:30 a campus security officer knocked on our door (First time on the whole trip!) and gave us an “out”.  “You’re not planning on sleeping here are you?”  There is a city ordinance against “camping” anywhere inside city limits.  Thank goodness for Walmart! We found a store 3 miles away and didn’t have to drive far so tired. (This is the second city that seems bent upon keeping campers and Trampers from sleeping peacefully, Saint Augustine, FL was first).

-David

DAY 158 2/15/2013 Farewell Friends and Monarch!

Rolling down off the site

Rolling down off the site

Today we packed up, hitched up and rolled out.  This was a near daily event on the Voyage until Heart of the Rockies where we’ve been docked since January one.  Here we skied.  Here we met our hosts, Hollly, Gayle, and the ever-so-happy Aiden.  Here we met The LivingstonFamilyAdventure!  Gabe, Marci, Mason, Adin, Asher, Mark, Niko.  We met Jeff and Snoogins.  And all have found their way into our hearts.  We were a community surviving the cold with the common Mountain interest.  Living in the venturi above Salida we all braved the scouring high winds.  We cooked out apres- ski at 10 degrees as the sun went down.  We opened our door to the wind ripping it out of our hands more times than not.  Double dates, potlucks of Gumbo, Curry, Ribs and laughter will not be forgotten or taken for granted.  Gathering those joys is truly life’s bounty.  Warmth in the cold of Winter.

Bye Bye Monarch

Bye Bye Monarch

Another odd thing for David to do is leave a ski area just as the season gets rolling, all trails opened and the backcountry getting deeper.  But this is not a ski trip.  This is not JUST a ski trip.  It is longer, deeper and open to a tomorrow with whatever it brings.

We have left family, new friends and new places before.  Sometimes just a few days after meeting them.  Its hard, but the road calls…the next adventure hides around the corner.  This time it was much  harder.  Climbing Monarch Pass to cross the Continental Divide felt like leaving old friends again!  Unprompted, I looked over at Jane once and knew she had the same lump in her throat.

But here we go.  Yup, another milestone driven.  Colorado DOT webcams to give a limited idea of road conditions.  Four new inches of snow at Monarch was not “EPIC” enough to delay leaving.  The roads below the pass were dry, and above 10,000 feet looked like just a little snow pack.  Ice too would have kept us safely parked at “home”.

Poor Marfa (the Faithful 4Runner, as you’ll recall), strolled up the pass with her 3400 lb load, going only 25 mph on the steeper sections.  Coloradans have no hesitation to pass, but I don’t put myself in a ditch for their convenience.  Hazard lights flashing and a caution triangle emblazoned on the spare should be enough to send ’em around.  Even the downhill!

Rolling down slowly

Rolling down slowly

Especially the downhill gave me caution.  30 mph caution signs at cliff-edged curves, a “runaway truck ramp” and snow packed surface combined; I went 25-30 downhill too.  Never have I driven a rig that demands attention like this.  Adrenaline is usually served only for sports, not just driving!

We pulled a big “hundred mile day” and found a National Forest access road to the Cimarron River.  A peaceful night capped off our dusky walk seeing an eagle and nice herd of elk!  Quiet, 0 degrees, cozy.  Off we went again in the AM.

Off West past Gunnison, Wifi’d our safe departure to family and the Colorado community and on we went.  South on 550.  Had I known Red Mountain Pass I may have gone another way.  It was dry, clear and sunny;I definitely would have detoured if it weren’t…but wow!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Jane peers out the window into the abyss (note small piece of road in right corner)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Nice scenery-NO GUARDRAILS!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The Valley Looms 500-1000 feet below!  Did I mention NO GUARDRAILS?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

 

Coalbank Pass' road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

Molas and Coalbank Pass’ road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

I had heard Monarch is one of the higher passes, but had no idea normal cars would be routed over anything like Red Mt (and it’s requisite partners Molas and Coalbank) year round.  Poor Marfa, her transmission started to overheat as indicated by a little red warning light.

Removing ALL cardboard from radiators and checking transmission fluid!

Removing ALL cardboard from radiator, trans cooler and checking transmission fluid!

14 miles uphill at 20-28 mph, no guard rails, thousand foot cliffs, very few pullouts, warnings not to stop secondary to avalanche areas and more than a few ice chunks falling on us while we crawled!  WOW!  Did I say Monarch was stressful?  We pulled into a small passing area and I pulled all of the cardboard that had been shielding the shivering radiator and transmission cooler from the Winter’s air for the past months.  Poor gal, she needed all the air we could give her on THIS climb!  We made it.

Arriving at Durango Mountain Resort (formerly Purgatory) we knew the right move.  Pull in, stay, ski!   (hee hee)  A great dinner was had and improved immensely by visiting across tables with two new friends from Tucson, Angelo and Debbie.  Plus there was a torchlight parade!  Could  it get any better with careful planning?  (As you know, “Serendipity is often our guide!”)

-David

(Fast Wifi allowed lots of pictures today courtesy of Durango Joe’s Coffee)

DAY 157 – 02/14/2013 – Arf, Arf, Valentine

We saw an ad for dog sled rides at Monarch so we signed right up. A few years ago, I took a dog sled ride in Snowmass. And it was fantastic!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Sled dogs in their travel kennel

Before taking that ride in Snowmass, my initial impression of dog sled rides went something like this: “Oh, the poor doggies! Made to pull fat Americans through the heavy snow!” But, Olivia and I needed a break from skiing so we decided to try it and see just how bad it was for he dogs.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Well, of course I soon found out how wrong my initial impression was. That’s what happens when you make a judgement without any real facts – it’s often way off the mark! The dogs absolutely love to pull the sled!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The outfit we used here is called Monarch Dog Sled Rides. All of the pictures on this post are from our ride at Monarch. Down from Alaska, Caleb Hathaway started the business here last year. His dogs are not Huskies; they’re mostly wonderful Alaskan-bred mutts. 

Caleb Hathaway

Caleb Hathaway

David and I were given time to meet and pet every one of the beautiful dogs before we loaded into the sled. The dogs are so friendly! I got lots of doggy kisses and love. We even got to put on a harness or two. Wow, those dogs were so excited to be hitched up for a run!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our musher was Chad. He spends winters with the dogs and summers kayaking white water. Speaks French, too. Such a life!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Chad – dog musher, river rat, adventurer

Chad chatted us up during the ride, explaining about the dogs and what their life is like. These are happy dogs! They live to run and pull the sled.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Caleb brought the dogs as puppies from Alaska. He had experience training teams for the Iditarod and decided that Monarch needed a dog sled outfit. They were lovingly raised to do what they were born to do – run!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We’re so glad he did for we loved our ride through the winter woods with the beautiful dogs! They took off joyfully, with ears bobbing, tails bouncing and tongues flapping.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Thinking about the Iditarod maybe?

David was wondering how many dogs it would take to pull the Tramper??

– Jane

DAY 156 – 02/13/2013 – Goodbye, Sweet Book!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

I think it’s safe to say that I read the heck out of this book! Now, I will do something I try not to do, which is, throw it out. I try not to do this, ever. Except for old college textbooks that no one will  buy or even be interested in for the next hundred years, I pass books along so that someone else can read them.

On the Tramper Voyage, I search for books at Goodwill or other second-hand stores. Sometimes, someone I meet along the way will give me a book. When I’ve read the book, I give it away or leave it someplace. There’s no room for extra weight in the Tramper!

The place I leave it varies. Lots of RV parks have “libraries”. Junk stores always take donations. Once, I left a pile of books at a Habitat for Humanity Re-Store.

As for The Once and Future King, well, it was picked up in one of those junk stores, already well-loved by countless readers. Plus, it’s just a cheap paperback, printed over 50 years ago. My handling wasn’t rough – I promise! As I turned the pages, various leaves would pop out. Then, entire sections would separate from the binding. When I needed a rubber band to hold the book together, I knew it was doomed!

This post isn’t meant to be a book review. I’m not qualified! But, I really enjoyed it. I’m a fan of the play and movie versions of this story, called “Camelot”. It was fun to recognize parts of the book that were incorporated into the movie. Other movies, too. “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” lifted concepts and entire lines of dialogue from The Once and Future King!

The movie took off in flights of Hollywood fancy, though. The story of Arthur, Guenever and Lancelot was a lot longer and more mature, according to T.H. White. Imaginative recreation of the whole of English history was described by White. Lots to ponder; fun to read.

– Jane

 

 

DAY 152 – 02/09/2013 – POW!

Every day here at Monarch Mountain in Colorado is actually pretty much the same. We wake up, putter around the Tramper for awhile, then go ski. After hours of fun in the snow, we come home, eat good food and go to sleep. That’s about it! Eat, ski, eat, sleep, repeat. How lucky can you get?! This life is idyllic. If I could transport myself through space and time to Maryland, in June, for just a few days a month to enjoy some gentle weather, life would be darn near perfect!!

My last post was a little whine-y. How could anyone on a 6 month vacation have much of anything to complain about? So here, in words and pictures, is another day in paradise:

When we left for the mountain this morning, it was snowing! Everybody at a ski resort is so happy when it’s snowing! The lifties smile even more than usual, their badge readers pinging merrily as the skiers and boarders line up for some glee.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

POW! for powder snow!

“POW!” for powder snow! At the top of the Panorama lift

The skiers and boarders are very happy.

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone's happy it's snowing

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone’s happy it’s snowing

David and I sure are happy!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Yep, falling snow makes everyone here happy. Even the people who live and work in the town, Salida, are happy because their livelihood depends on it, winter and summer. (The Arkansas River which runs through this valley it bigger, deeper and faster in the summer for the kayak and rafting enthusiasts, when there’s lots of snow the winter before. Better river = more tourist dollars.)

Now, David and I obviously enjoy fresh snow. Skiing in powder is different from skiing on packed powder, which is how they describe snow that’s been around for a while. We love the fast, hard snow that makes you use the ski to power thrilling, fast runs. Big, arcing turns on hard snow feels like flying! It seems like snowboarders, except for the really good ones who can carve a turn, need fresh powder snow more than the average skier. So, today, the boarders were in their element, too.

We saw a friend David made on the mountain.

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

The high-tension power lines that climb up and over Monarch Pass were singing today! If you stop under them, you can hear the snow and wind making them hum quite audibly. I googled it and it seems the snow and wind can cause excess oscillations and “moments” as the power is transferred along the line. Interesting phenomenon, and it sounds pretty cool, but we moved on!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Unusual for us, we went out this evening with some Colorado friends! We’re old and we are tired at the end of the ski day, so we usually go back to the Tramper and entertain ourselves until bedtime. But, Marci and Gabe, our friends from Monroe, LA, and Jeff, our friend from Colorado via Texas, were going out to see a band.

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. Don't know who belongs to that head in the background

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. (Don’t know who belongs to that head in the background)

Live music is something we love, so off we drove into the dark snowy night to a Salida bar called River’s Edge.  “Ethyl & the Regulars” were playing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe heard it was to be Swing music. Now, ‘swing music’ to an Easterner is a band with trumpets and trombones and timid guitars.  Not so the Western variety!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

No ‘swing’ band in Baltimore has this pedal steel guitar in it! The didn’t swing, they swang!!

Dancing, too!

Dancing, too!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Singing cowboy

We had a blast! But, even over the music, we could hear the mountain calling. We would ski again tomorrow.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

So, we left Salida to return to the Tramper. But not before taking in the giant light above the river on Tenderfoot mountain.  It might not look like much in the photo, but imagine the dark mountain against the black sky, with a giant letter spelled out in lights. “S” for Salida.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

“Big Red Heart” for Heart of the Rockies.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Apparently, it’s a western thing…

– Jane

P.S. – We saw a grey fox in the campsite the other night. He stopped by long enough for David to call me to bring a flashlight. What a beauty he was! Of course, he didn’t stay around long enough for a picture, but I found a photo online that looks just like him:

Fox Wild Ed

He is much bigger than our red foxes at home in Maryland and his tail and fur were very puffy in the cold. I really wanted to give him some ham, but, of course, that would have been a big no-no! I thanked him for stopping by.