Tag Archives: Wonderful people

DAY 158 2/15/2013 Farewell Friends and Monarch!

Rolling down off the site

Rolling down off the site

Today we packed up, hitched up and rolled out.  This was a near daily event on the Voyage until Heart of the Rockies where we’ve been docked since January one.  Here we skied.  Here we met our hosts, Hollly, Gayle, and the ever-so-happy Aiden.  Here we met The LivingstonFamilyAdventure!  Gabe, Marci, Mason, Adin, Asher, Mark, Niko.  We met Jeff and Snoogins.  And all have found their way into our hearts.  We were a community surviving the cold with the common Mountain interest.  Living in the venturi above Salida we all braved the scouring high winds.  We cooked out apres- ski at 10 degrees as the sun went down.  We opened our door to the wind ripping it out of our hands more times than not.  Double dates, potlucks of Gumbo, Curry, Ribs and laughter will not be forgotten or taken for granted.  Gathering those joys is truly life’s bounty.  Warmth in the cold of Winter.

Bye Bye Monarch

Bye Bye Monarch

Another odd thing for David to do is leave a ski area just as the season gets rolling, all trails opened and the backcountry getting deeper.  But this is not a ski trip.  This is not JUST a ski trip.  It is longer, deeper and open to a tomorrow with whatever it brings.

We have left family, new friends and new places before.  Sometimes just a few days after meeting them.  Its hard, but the road calls…the next adventure hides around the corner.  This time it was much  harder.  Climbing Monarch Pass to cross the Continental Divide felt like leaving old friends again!  Unprompted, I looked over at Jane once and knew she had the same lump in her throat.

But here we go.  Yup, another milestone driven.  Colorado DOT webcams to give a limited idea of road conditions.  Four new inches of snow at Monarch was not “EPIC” enough to delay leaving.  The roads below the pass were dry, and above 10,000 feet looked like just a little snow pack.  Ice too would have kept us safely parked at “home”.

Poor Marfa (the Faithful 4Runner, as you’ll recall), strolled up the pass with her 3400 lb load, going only 25 mph on the steeper sections.  Coloradans have no hesitation to pass, but I don’t put myself in a ditch for their convenience.  Hazard lights flashing and a caution triangle emblazoned on the spare should be enough to send ’em around.  Even the downhill!

Rolling down slowly

Rolling down slowly

Especially the downhill gave me caution.  30 mph caution signs at cliff-edged curves, a “runaway truck ramp” and snow packed surface combined; I went 25-30 downhill too.  Never have I driven a rig that demands attention like this.  Adrenaline is usually served only for sports, not just driving!

We pulled a big “hundred mile day” and found a National Forest access road to the Cimarron River.  A peaceful night capped off our dusky walk seeing an eagle and nice herd of elk!  Quiet, 0 degrees, cozy.  Off we went again in the AM.

Off West past Gunnison, Wifi’d our safe departure to family and the Colorado community and on we went.  South on 550.  Had I known Red Mountain Pass I may have gone another way.  It was dry, clear and sunny;I definitely would have detoured if it weren’t…but wow!

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Jane peers out the window into the abyss (note small piece of road in right corner)

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Nice scenery-NO GUARDRAILS!

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The Valley Looms 500-1000 feet below!  Did I mention NO GUARDRAILS?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

Sometimes a glimpse of the road ahead has you wondering where it squeezes through?

 

Coalbank Pass' road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

Molas and Coalbank Pass’ road as an engineering marvel stretches out below

I had heard Monarch is one of the higher passes, but had no idea normal cars would be routed over anything like Red Mt (and it’s requisite partners Molas and Coalbank) year round.  Poor Marfa, her transmission started to overheat as indicated by a little red warning light.

Removing ALL cardboard from radiators and checking transmission fluid!

Removing ALL cardboard from radiator, trans cooler and checking transmission fluid!

14 miles uphill at 20-28 mph, no guard rails, thousand foot cliffs, very few pullouts, warnings not to stop secondary to avalanche areas and more than a few ice chunks falling on us while we crawled!  WOW!  Did I say Monarch was stressful?  We pulled into a small passing area and I pulled all of the cardboard that had been shielding the shivering radiator and transmission cooler from the Winter’s air for the past months.  Poor gal, she needed all the air we could give her on THIS climb!  We made it.

Arriving at Durango Mountain Resort (formerly Purgatory) we knew the right move.  Pull in, stay, ski!   (hee hee)  A great dinner was had and improved immensely by visiting across tables with two new friends from Tucson, Angelo and Debbie.  Plus there was a torchlight parade!  Could  it get any better with careful planning?  (As you know, “Serendipity is often our guide!”)

-David

(Fast Wifi allowed lots of pictures today courtesy of Durango Joe’s Coffee)

DAY 152 – 02/09/2013 – POW!

Every day here at Monarch Mountain in Colorado is actually pretty much the same. We wake up, putter around the Tramper for awhile, then go ski. After hours of fun in the snow, we come home, eat good food and go to sleep. That’s about it! Eat, ski, eat, sleep, repeat. How lucky can you get?! This life is idyllic. If I could transport myself through space and time to Maryland, in June, for just a few days a month to enjoy some gentle weather, life would be darn near perfect!!

My last post was a little whine-y. How could anyone on a 6 month vacation have much of anything to complain about? So here, in words and pictures, is another day in paradise:

When we left for the mountain this morning, it was snowing! Everybody at a ski resort is so happy when it’s snowing! The lifties smile even more than usual, their badge readers pinging merrily as the skiers and boarders line up for some glee.

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POW! for powder snow!

“POW!” for powder snow! At the top of the Panorama lift

The skiers and boarders are very happy.

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone's happy it's snowing

Tailgate party on the parking lot. Only seen when everyone’s happy it’s snowing

David and I sure are happy!

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Yep, falling snow makes everyone here happy. Even the people who live and work in the town, Salida, are happy because their livelihood depends on it, winter and summer. (The Arkansas River which runs through this valley it bigger, deeper and faster in the summer for the kayak and rafting enthusiasts, when there’s lots of snow the winter before. Better river = more tourist dollars.)

Now, David and I obviously enjoy fresh snow. Skiing in powder is different from skiing on packed powder, which is how they describe snow that’s been around for a while. We love the fast, hard snow that makes you use the ski to power thrilling, fast runs. Big, arcing turns on hard snow feels like flying! It seems like snowboarders, except for the really good ones who can carve a turn, need fresh powder snow more than the average skier. So, today, the boarders were in their element, too.

We saw a friend David made on the mountain.

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

This is Chris, center, with his family on a brief pause during a run

The high-tension power lines that climb up and over Monarch Pass were singing today! If you stop under them, you can hear the snow and wind making them hum quite audibly. I googled it and it seems the snow and wind can cause excess oscillations and “moments” as the power is transferred along the line. Interesting phenomenon, and it sounds pretty cool, but we moved on!

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Unusual for us, we went out this evening with some Colorado friends! We’re old and we are tired at the end of the ski day, so we usually go back to the Tramper and entertain ourselves until bedtime. But, Marci and Gabe, our friends from Monroe, LA, and Jeff, our friend from Colorado via Texas, were going out to see a band.

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. Don't know who belongs to that head in the background

me, Jeff, Gabe & Marci. (Don’t know who belongs to that head in the background)

Live music is something we love, so off we drove into the dark snowy night to a Salida bar called River’s Edge.  “Ethyl & the Regulars” were playing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe heard it was to be Swing music. Now, ‘swing music’ to an Easterner is a band with trumpets and trombones and timid guitars.  Not so the Western variety!

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No ‘swing’ band in Baltimore has this pedal steel guitar in it! The didn’t swing, they swang!!

Dancing, too!

Dancing, too!

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Singing cowboy

We had a blast! But, even over the music, we could hear the mountain calling. We would ski again tomorrow.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

Powder stashes were awaiting fresh turns.

So, we left Salida to return to the Tramper. But not before taking in the giant light above the river on Tenderfoot mountain.  It might not look like much in the photo, but imagine the dark mountain against the black sky, with a giant letter spelled out in lights. “S” for Salida.

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“Big Red Heart” for Heart of the Rockies.

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Apparently, it’s a western thing…

– Jane

P.S. – We saw a grey fox in the campsite the other night. He stopped by long enough for David to call me to bring a flashlight. What a beauty he was! Of course, he didn’t stay around long enough for a picture, but I found a photo online that looks just like him:

Fox Wild Ed

He is much bigger than our red foxes at home in Maryland and his tail and fur were very puffy in the cold. I really wanted to give him some ham, but, of course, that would have been a big no-no! I thanked him for stopping by.

DAY 138 – 01/30/2013 – It Fell From the Sky!

Ponder your Winter.  Grey skies, wet sidewalks, dirty cars and cold fingers.  Maybe even fumbled car keys in the frigid dark, frozen locks and dead batteries.  Imagine the only way moisture came down from above was in that classic Northeast style.  Yup, cloudy grey, damp, and near 100% humidity at 31 degrees, then rain.  Its freezes on bushes, branches and grass.  Pretty sight in small doses, but add the extremes like in Maine and you’ve got downed trees and powerlines across your commute!  Yes, if all Winter precipitation were rain and freezing rain, the world would be a different place.

But that’s not the only way it falls.  It falls as snow!  The eskimos have “hundreds” of names for it, (although this is disputed by Wiki).  And in Colorado, nearly everyone follows the weather.  Commerce depends on snow.  Summer cities 200 miles away depend on the gradual delivery from the snowpack.  So this week as the snow came again after more than a week without, people were abuzz.  Interstate Route 70 West was filling up.   Smartphones everywhere ticked the totals at the resorts.  People planned their drop ins.  Snowfall ranged from 2-4″ at Cooper, 7-8″ at Beaver Creek, to 29″ down at Silverton.

GREEN Trees and Thin snow: had to watch out for early season rocks. (Jan 24)

GREEN Trees and Thin snow: even had to watch out for early season rocks. (Jan 24)

Look at it Now!  (Feb 1)

Look at it Now! (Feb 1)

We were fortunate enough to have a standing invitation Wednesday to join a wonderful friend at Beaver Creek to stay in her condo during her vacation.  Her brother, some extended family and friend have annual trips to ski there.  We, of course typically take vacations like theirs too.  But this time we were Trampers, just visiting from the middle of our voyage.

A perspective I hadn’t recognized follows us now.  On all my previous ski trips, I lobby for long trips of more than 7 days, wake up for first tracks and close the lifts.  On the voyage, I’ve set this mode aside.  We wake without alarms, ski a little or a lot.

View from Monarch Ridge, top of Panorama lift.

View from Monarch Ridge, top of Panorama lift.

Winter is HERE!

Winter is HERE!

Monarch operates in San Isabel National Forest

Monarch operates in San Isabel National Forest

We arrived in Beaver Creek, settled into the beautiful condo and waited for Megan.  Plans had already been laid out for all of us, we were riding the 8:00 shuttle to catch the lifts as they opened.  The overall village arrangement includes “a million beds” and free shuttle services to avoid parking hassles and fees.  This meant leaving the condo in ski boots with sandwiches in pockets.  Lately we’ve been at such small places that we park 50-100 feet from the door on the bottom floor of the lodge and carry our boots in knapsack bags into the sack-lunch area to dress.  (The next day, Thursday, inside of the Ski Cooper cafeteria there were 11 other people total at 10:30 AM)

Where do we go first?

Where do we go first?

At Beaver Creek, clearly a fabulous and delightfully diverse mountain, the Trampers suffered culture shock.  We were amazed traversing the connectors of that big mountain.  I was humbled as I stood on the ledge of the Screech Owl Jump along the Birds of Prey men’s Downhill course.  Those Olympians are SO, SO amazingly out of my league.  We felt as we were skiing in a city, a big bustling city.  We had fun, but felt our budget could be spared any more days of full-price/big mountain lift tickets.  Maybe we can spend that hundred on dogsled rides?  We chose to ski only one day there, then head back to our beloved Monarch where our season pass continues.

Most fortunately we loved our visit and hosts.  Megan’s family was in the Vacation Mode.  You know the one.  Each person injects his or her expectations and the clock cannot and will not stop anything from fitting in.  Apres ski, hot tub, happy hour, dinners and best of all; wine and cheese in their room.  We went by, and thoroughly enjoyed the evening of chat, tasty box wine, yummy cheeses and snacks.  The chat is MY favorite.  Each of us seemed prompted to share a tale or story of some notoriety, many from or fed by skiing and the lifelong love thereof.  Surrounding the fires of memory we shared the oral tradition in all its glory.  All of us laughed therapeutically and hard.

My only regret was that all our searches during the ski day for the leeward relief from wind, the best snow or the best trails to share detoured us from sharing runs with anyone but our more direct host, Megan.  Even then, our search blurred some of the blissful runs.

All-in-all, I hadn’t realized how unlike a vacation the Tramper Voyage is.  We’ve set an alarm only 2 or 3 times in as many months.  Ski for an hour or all day with our cheap picnic squeezed in the sack-lunch area.  Skip a day, have a soak, or take a hike instead.  And scarcely squeeze anything extra into the days.  Even shopping or going 15 miles into town is spontaneous and barely weekly.  We sure are enjoying this and hope the picture stays with us to color our future lives, and vacations.

Jumping for Joy!

Jumping for Joy!

– David

DAY 128 – 01/20/2013 – In Which We Hike in the Snowy Woods with the Livingstons

We have but one neighbor in the Heart of the Rockies RV Park and they are as much fun as we could want. The Livingston’s are traveling with their 4 young sons in an RV and, like us, chose to stay in Salida and ski for a while. You can check out their blog, Livingston Family Adventures, here.

There’s no new snow right now at Monarch Mountain, so we decided to take a hike together.

From left are Mason, Asher (with his eyes closed), dad Gabe, Adin, mom Marcie and Mark

From left are Mason, Asher (with his eyes closed), dad Gabe, Adin, mom Marci and Mark

The sky was cerulean blue and much, much warmer (mid 30’s and sunny) than it had been a couple weeks ago.

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The Colorado Trail is 486 miles and runs past our campground home, just a couple miles up the mountain road.

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The boys are pretty small but they can hike! Mason rode on Gabe’s back and the other three were troopers.

We signed in; necessary to find you if you don’t come out! Also, keeps track of trail usage.

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The boys each carried their own backpack and were wearing snowpants and boots. Asher led the way:

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We had some nice views:

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We saw animal tracks.

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The paw print could have been someone’s dog but we preferred to think of it as a wolf or coyote track!

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We walked into the woods quite a way, but the boys started to get a little cold and tired. Besides, snow that only comes up to my ankles is knee deep to a child!

Adin

Adin

A yummy alfresco lunch back at the car:

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Mason, Adin, Asher and Mark

The boys still had some hiking left in them so we headed up the snowy road in search of a geocache.

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Some scrambling was required. Gabe had an opportunity to give the two older boys a little rock climbing lesson:

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Sadly, no cache was found, but lots of fun was had!

– Jane

DAY 124 – 01/16/2013 Skiing at Copper with Jon & Naomi

Yesterday, in the sack lunch room at Ski Monarch, we met a very nice couple. Their names are Jon and Naomi. They’re from Maine.

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Naomi & Jon. Married about a year! Isn’t that cute!?

Of course, we blabbed on about our trip. And we gave them one of our new cards. (Yes, we ordered up some ‘business’ cards. After being asked if we had a card many times. So, now we’re cool.)

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We liked Jon and Naomi right from the start. We had that lovely ‘instant rapport’ going on. You know the feeling. When you have things in common that make you feel comfortable right away, but your curiosity is piqued and you want to spend some more time together.

David, Naomi, Jon & Jane

David, Naomi, Jon & Jane

Our new friends mentioned that they were going to try Copper Mountain ski area the next day. While David held his breath in anticipation of revisiting Copper, I asked them if they wanted company. I told them to check out the blog and send us a comment if they had an interest in skiing with us.

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David said later that he wasn’t going to push for the Copper side trip but he sure was glad that I brought it up. David taught skiing at Copper, back in the ’80’s.

Of course, we are loving our ‘home’ mountain, Ski Monarch. It’s everything we hoped it would be: low-key, inexpensive and close by, with that beautiful Colorado snow and big scenery.

Some of the Copper Mountain base lodges

Some of the Copper Mountain base lodges

But, Copper Mountain is a different sort of resort from Monarch. It’s huge! Many times more lifts; much more acreage. It’s glamorous. And expensive, so Copper would be a rare treat for us.

We heard from Jon and Naomi later in the evening. Yay! We’ll have a fun day at Copper! We packed our ski bags and went to sleep early.

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Next morning, we met up with our new friends inside one of the Copper Lodges. We quickly realized that exploring the mountain with them would be a good experience!

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Naomi has been skiing for a while; Jon just started a couple years ago; I am a constantly-learning ski veteran and David is the happiest man on Earth right now!

My wonderful David. Happiest man on Earth - to be skiing in Colorado!

My wonderful David. Happiest man on Earth – to be skiing in Colorado! He says skiing with me makes it even better…

We all skied to our joyful limits. David sprinkled in some really useful tips for everyone and we used those hints, cruising down ‘blue’ runs and testing ourselves on some ‘black diamonds’.

We were absolutely done. Spent. But, someone said (as someone inevitably does)  “Let’s go down one more time!”. And, so we did, closing down the lift on the very last run up the mountain. Whoo Hoo!

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We said goodbye to Jon and Naomi and started the long drive back to the Tramper. The evening Alpenglow atop the now-slumbering mountains bid us a beautiful goodbye.

– Jane