Tag Archives: nature

Weather you are ready or not?

Living in the Mid-Atlantic gives so much to celebrate and be grateful for. Really, few hurricanes, usually tempered down to “Tropical Storm” level by the time they are inland to Baltimore. Only about 3 tornadoes in 60-plus years. Snow, but not so much as to be “actually a barrier”, beautiful ice storms, usually thin and shiny but not tearing down every tree in sight. And, heat, yep humid but with our trees and shading techniques only a dozen or so days where we turn on air conditioning. Yes, really, our fan runs blowing out a window in one room, drawing reasonable air into our bedroom. (Only once or twice a year do we panic, splash cold water on arms and face to argue over whether we need AC that night)

But, for the road? In NY our friends were suffering about the dozenth day of rain so we went shopping with them. J-P and Anne happily trouped through Sierra, Sportsmen’s Warehouse and Walmart with us as we quickly exceeded all of our collective shopping tolerance. We left NY the next day and raced as far as needed to find sun and biked in BVM/Bonneyville Mills, Indiana, We didn’t see rain again until 9 days later in the Palisades Campground near Red Lodge, MT. Then today, 18 days later as drizzle on the highway entering Boise, Idaho.

Temperatures have ranged from 101 degrees to about 37 degrees F. We have not used our heater once as yet. The sleeping bags are flat and unzipped, one on bottom, one as a cover along with a sheet, easy to launder, easy to toss aside or grab a bit extra. The sun though, is a ruthless overseer. We have foil of course for the windshield, but also every window in the van sides, front and rear. Shade is a treasured commodity for parking and here again, the East has more to offer than out here. That of course leads to big views of big skies.

Seriously, though, we have had an occasional eye on things. We don’t want to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. The modern world gives so many advantages in weather forecasting. We were watching the “Fire Closure” map in Washington and Oregon. Fortunately, we slipped into and out of our chosen places without event. I guess our next big concern is the middle of this BIG COUNTRY. We sure wouldn’t want to drive intentionally toward any severe storms. However, wow, there are lots and lots of places with “No Internet”/”No Service”!!! believe it or not. Wish us luck…now we hear there is a “Heat Dome” forming! So far, Helen keeps her temperature gauge right below the middle where it belongs. Good hoses, new water pump, timing belt, tensioner and serpentine belts help her keep her cool.

(written 6/20 in the Flying M coffee shop, Boise, ID and finished 6/23 in Lake Maloney State Park, Nebraska)

David

TREES, wow just wow!

This post was going to be pictures only, no words. Then I realized I am actually going through some complex processes and thoughts I’d like to share. Don’t worry, they’ll still be pictures. The challenge lies in all my prior knowledge, learning and innate beliefs being cast upon the reality of the woods around me.

I’ve always loved the woods; peace was found, trouble was hidden. Walking, riding, just standing and looking/listening/smelling. This trip sent us places we’ve never been and added not only to my joy, but to my understanding. The woods in Davis, WV were decimated by man for coal, timber and even bombing runs. The regrowth there is hard to fathom and so I mostly just ride there and enjoy the shade. Taking it in, but for granted.

Truly no expert on any of this, I’m sharing my own overwhelming introduction as it rolls from state to state. This road is changing and adding to my viewpoint. I knew from movies and pictures that the West and Pacific Northwest would be a spectacle and an experience. We’ve been in Alpine and Sub-alpine forests. I’d heard a tiny bit about Coastal Rain Forests but the name Pacific Temperate rainforest is the more correct term. These areas get almost 10 feet of rain annually and have mostly moderate temps from 50-75 degrees F year round. Lots of growing time and lots of competition for sunlight. The Alpine areas I love to ski in get snow and somehow survive the wild swings of harsh Winters.

We have truly embraced them all throughout, but the PNW trees have shaken me to more attention.  They have rescued us from the heat and unrelenting sun of the plains. We were surprised to be seeing a 101 degrees reading on the dash after leaving Three Rivers, Idaho.  We had been in a forest that was cool and crisp, loved adding a jacket and hat to cook breakfast. Suddenly, a few miles later we were shocked driving up the highway and hiding in the shade just pumping gas, placing foil in every window for only a few minutes shopping in a market.

Perhaps the first reprieve was on Moscow Mountain, Idaho with Lodgepole Pines, Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar. The woods there welcomed us in and delighted with the green smells and breezes. Though we saw the beautiful areas, lush hollows and tight shady places in the rides, there were timbered places and widened dirt roads (like where we saw the moose and calf). Other than those roads, the timbered areas were not so obvious. But as we drove through the town of Troy, Idaho we were overwhelmed by the unmistakable smell of cedar and witnessed a sawmill working through the night. Quite a busy sawmill with acres and acres of cut timber lined up and readied for processing.

I reminisced about the nice forests in Montana near Red Lodge. There we also witnessed thousands of acres that had burned. We heard of fires in 2020 and other years, noting bare places of carnage and seeing new growth beginning to recover. We found burnt pinecones in places spurred by the fires to send out life. We saw so many bare acres we seethed when we saw kids at the next campsite playing with a fire in their dad’s brief absence. We nearly grabbed the host when luckily the dad came back and tempered the kids by stopping their games with leaves and pine needles.

Then driving further West into Washington, we were again assaulted by the hot sun on the plains. So much so that we took refuge in a Quality Inn. Air conditioning, water refill, a shower and charge-ups of all electronics were needed along with the almost 9 straight hours of sleep.

The next turns included traffic jams in Seattle, then to Dash State Park South of Tacoma. Another great forest! Still brewing my reactions we went to perhaps the “oldest growth” yet in Lewis and Clark State Park. The first day trip from there took us to Mt St Helens. During the drive we saw bare hills, roughly stripped of every tree, other mountains stripes of tall trees between bare patches. Whole mountainsides denuded of all trees as well as varied areas replanted and labeled with the year planted. But the 616 acres were an amazing refuge in Lewis and Clark State Park, so much we stayed two days. The green, ghostly snags and even living trees were massive co-working organisms to gawk at. They got me looking, thinking and writing all this stuff.

Suffice to say, between natural fires, large and small, Cataclysmic volcanic events and logging we’ve seen trees challenged, blasted, scorched and removed. Filling our knowledge gap came from an unexpected source. We went the road less-travelled and entered Mt St Helens National Volcanic Monument bypassing the National Park Entrance and visitor center.

This led us into a Weyerhaeuser “Forest Visitor Center”. We braced ourselves for logging propaganda but got much more. The cataclysmic events of the eruption took out 1500′ of mountain May 18, 1980 was a natural event that decimated 130,000 of acres of trees. The river was completely changed and raised ~180′ by a 5.1 earthquake and the largest recorded landslide ever with boulders, piles, silt and massive glacier melt flooding. The mountains all around had trees leveled like toothpicks. Nearly 68,000 acres was being managed by Weyerhaeuser before the blast, so they were integral to the plans for recovery and replanting. (Of course they harvested every bit of lumber they could over the two year period)

Inside the blast zone nature was allowed to take its course. Jane and I hiked the “Hummocks” area in which nature alone was allowed to shape the recovery. The Hummocks are hills formed by debris, with pots of sinkholes from melting glaciers as well. The trail wound its way upward and around some areas where old growth trunks were still visible, protected from the blast but dead all the same and clinging to where they had stood.

Outside the blast area and on their own properties, the timber companies prepped and planted on a massive scale. The natural areas have deciduous bushes, trees and early conifers but are far far behind the planted regrowth in the timbered areas. These had multiple layers and plots of trees of varied heights depending on when they were planted. The mature ones started in 1982 look “almost” like a natural forest. But, they had a sameness, a lack of variability that betrayed their nature. They were a near mono-culture. They looked “too perfect”. So now I’ve seen layers and layers of nurtured forests. Often they lay 50′ from the road, hidden by a thin veil of uncut trees or bushes only seen over big hills or turns. The secret bare places or trees planted 4, 5, 10 or 15 years ago hiding in plain sight. Enjoy the pics, sorry it took so long to share.

The trees individually and as forests thrive, grow, change and return any way they can. Of course we’ve all seen the sidewalks cracking from incessant return of roots and time. I don’t have much of a conclusion or summary, but I see the expedient return by the logging companies for profit. I see the slower more random way nature takes over, but most of all, “I see the trees in the forest”.

13 miles away in 1980! (Blasted by The eruption)
Stumps left from the blast
planted 2021 (sorry for terrible pic, these signs are rare and pop up quickly)
The ones to Left of car are about 5 years old, toddlers
This was pretty much someone’s small farm of trees
Some examples of stripes of different ages
Burn from 2017 above Oneonta Gorge
Burn from 2020 deep into canyon near Red Lodge
More near Red Lodge (at first we didn’t know it was all from fire, we just saw dead trees and blight)
Diarama at Weyerhaeuser visitor center (Forest Education center)
Some goods we saw down the road, sheet goods. But they sell lots of boards, we saw literal mountains of sawdust near Portland
A tall snag, supporting insects and birds for 100 years before falling and enriching the soil for the next 50.

David

(Written in Ainsworth State Park, Oregon, Columbia River Gorge)

The Exhilaration of Slowing Down

How do you convey an emotion with a photograph? How do you set the tone and allow the viewer to feel what you felt? Real photographers have been pondering and struggling to answer these questions for a century and a half now, with varying degrees of success.

I’m no artist. I take photos for fun. So, my photos may need a bit of explanation to create a ‘feeling’.

Here’s the setup:

I like to mountain bike. David and I love to share being in the woods on a bike with others, so when our neighbors showed an interest, we were happy to show them ‘our’ trails. The day was spectacular. Sunny skies but not too hot and barely humid. Still in high summer, everything was lush and green.

Problem was, our neighbors are 20 years younger and a whole lot more fit than me. Adventure Race fit. Personal Trainer fit. Now, don’t get me wrong, they were as gracious as could be and really were enjoying the day. But, after a couple of hours of desperately trying to keep up with my nice friends, I’d really had enough of being the anchor. The ball and chain. The person who makes the ride last twice as long as it should because she’s so slow!

So, I begged off, taking another route through the woods. I know the trails well so David was sure I’d be fine. David, by the way, can hang with almost anyone on a bike. One young admirer said David has ‘old guy strength’. I would dispute the ‘old guy’ description but David is very strong on a bike!

For a while, off on my own, I rode at my typical slower pace, thoroughly enjoying nature all around me. The birds were outdoing themselves singing their sweet songs. I startled a young deer. After a while, I saw a side trail I’d never used before. I knew it would be short since it appeared to be a fisherman’s trail down to the water. So, I took it.

Around a bend, I stopped. Oh, it was a beautiful spot! Very peaceful and calm and beautiful, beautiful. Time to relax here for a while! Do you ever find yourself somewhere, or perhaps with someone, and get a sense of ‘right-ness’? Like you’re in the exact right spot at the exact right time? That’s where I was!

I pulled out my camera and took some shots. Can you feel it?

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– Jane

Photo of the Week #11 – The Mysterious White Van

You remember the White Bronco, don’t you?  You know – O.J. Simpson’s getaway car? Nineteen years ago this week, the White Bronco entered into infamy as OJ tried to flee. He didn’t escape his fate. Not then, anyway. He actually did escape his fate later, though, during the ensuing trial. By being found not guilty of the murder of his wife and her boyfriend. Now, in 2013, OJ has a sad little life. In jail, awaiting a judgement on whether he can have a new trial for a mess he got into in 2008 when he was found guilty of breaking and entering.

Enough about OJ. He’s not really worth any more words. But, our Photo of the Week #11 is!

Day 176 of the Voyage of the Tramper 03/05/2013

Trailhead – Zion National Park, Utah

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Another notable white vehicle. Not a white Ford Bronco. A white Ford minivan. And, not infamous, just interesting.

A Google search of  “White Minivans Against Oppression” turns up nothing at all. So, we think it’s a just a bit of wordplay that doesn’t mean anything. A gently sardonic phrase meant only to adorn the side of said white minivan. Painted on there by an artist with absolutely no respect for the sanctity of the American minivan!

Here’s a couple of shots of more good art on the van:

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Thanks, minivan artist, for some interesting pics!

– Jane

Virginia Mountain Bike Weekend!

The Tramper, though we love her dearly, is taking up way too much space in our driveway. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMore importantly, David’s workshop is totally blocked with the Tramper in the driveway. No projects or cars can go in or out for servicing. Horrors!

The Tramper will never be sold and will never be retired. Just…. out of our hair! Some friends made a lovely offer so we’ll relocate the Tramper soon. But first, one more trip!

It was just a long weekend. A tiny speck of time compared to the Voyage. But big fun!

Ready to go!

Ready to go!

We attended the Virginia Mountain Bike Festival held each year near the Shenandoah in George Washington National Forest.

We love this bike fest! The attendance is small but the trails are huge. They even un-complicate the camping a bit by feeding us a few meals.

Our rides varied from 2 hours to 6 hours and we had loads of fun! To get to the gorgeous singletrack trails, an hour of road riding was required. Road riding is not our favorite (danger from cars, exhaust fumes, blazing sun, etc.) but we were richly rewarded for our efforts by views from the spine of the mountain.

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Knowing that you climbed the mountain by bicycle power makes it all the sweeter! Did I mention the trails can be quite rocky?

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This segment of trail is tame compared to some of the others. But, I was fighting for my life on the truly rocky bits. No time for photos!

Seen in the woods, on the ridge top: Pink Ladies Slipper! It’s the first time I’ve photographed them in the woods. Enchanting!

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Here’s a bouncy bridge over the poetically named North River. I had fun jumping on it! I don’t think the friends who were with me had as much fun on the swaying, leaping bridge as I did, though.

The Tramper was a cozy haven when the weather turned chilly.

He, Rich! Refuse to smile for the camera at your own risk!

Hey, Rich! Refuse to smile for the camera at your own risk!

Another great weekend with the Tramper!

– Jane