Tag Archives: Hiking

DAY 169 2/26/2013 Mojave National Preserve

Our driving has been through desert after desert.  Acrid open land with dots.  Bushes, scrub, and Pinyon really, and then tumble weeds when wind or conditions demand.  We’ve seen the dots of Texas,  New Mexico, Arizona and even Colorado.  Now we drive South in search of warmth and to see more desert, yes, and more dots.  If you’ve flown West, you’ve seen them.  Hillsides are dotted, most have no forest, just dots.  Bushes of many size and shape.  The forests are at higher elevations and cling in valleys.  If you’ve driven West you’ve seen the wind-blown tumble weeds trapped in barbed wire.  Trying to reach the other side they gather on the fences.

But seriously the desert is alive.  Very alive!  Even the soils in many of these areas is a beautiful symbiosis of cyanobacteria, fungi, green and brown algae, lichens and mosses.  We saw Cryptogamic soil in a variety of arid settings from Big Bend, Texas to Betatakin, in AZ.  This fragile crust lives and stabilizes the soil itself.  A protection against soil loss to the elements, erosion and wind.  But just stepping on it disrupts this and can takes years to repair.  Lesson; stay on the trail!  Soil really is more valuable than gold.  It supports our food chain.  The dustbowls of midwest attest to the crucial part soils play.  We also see, over and over, where water is life.  Water makes a town.  Water makes tourism.  Water is food.  Communities thrive near water and move when trouble comes or wells dry up.  Lesson; conserve water.  Really.  We can’t believe people water grass back home.  (and even the golf courses or hotel lawns out here!)  Summer grass is meant to be dormant and a bit brown, grow less and allow you more time for Summer fun.  Really.

The 1.6 MILLION-ACRE Mojave Preserve varies from about 800 feet elevation near Baker to a spine  of mountains including 7929′ Clark Mountain.  These features create at least 30 identifiable habitats.  Moisture, elevation, wind, soil and sun exposure create such a variety.  Pinyon Woodlands, Joshua Tree Woodlands, Cactus-Yucca Scrub, Desert Dunes, Creosote Bush Scrub and Desert Wash ranging from the higher elevations down create a surprising array.

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Staying randomly at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground we were treated to some of this variety.   We especially enjoyed the dirt road we followed leaving the park.  We drove 30 or 40 miles of Mojave Desert dirt road and even saw a bicyclist entering the preserve alone there.  The Western slopes were full of Joshua Trees.  A fellow camper said there are more here than in Joshua Tree National Park.

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We hiked a cool trail called the Rings Trail which carries you around a smaller mountain or butte, then up through a slot canyon of sorts.

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There were no warning signs and just subtle NPS trail markers to follow “keeping the butte on your right all the way” as the ranger suggested.

The animal life too, is varied.  Lizards, Mojave Rattlesnake, and the Colorado Sidewinder can be found (but mostly avoided by us).  We saw the big eared Blacktail Jackrabbit, birds, Quail, and raptors, scat from fox or coyote.  The kit fox is the size of a house cat, sure wish we’d seen one.  The Desert Tortoise is a protected species out here.  Brochures and signs suggest checking the shade under your car in Summer.  Even the tortoise seek shade, but need your caution as you prepare to leave.

So yes, there are more than dots in the desert.

-David

DAYS 164 to 168 – Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

02/21/2013 through 02/25/2013

Millions of people from all over the world have visited the Grand Canyon. Billions of words have been written about it’s beauty and awesome-ness. So, we’ll try to limit our words and mostly give you pictures.

Here are some of our reactions to the canyon:

JANE: We arrive at the canyon’s edge as night falls. I’d been told that the Grand Canyon would be amazing, but I really didn’t know it would be beyond words! How to describe standing on the rim? (and you can stand right on the rim; there are few railings here) I’m crying now as I write this, thinking about seeing the canyon for the first time – and every day after. I have to stop and struggle for the right words. It’s beautiful. It’s breathtaking. It’s bigger than you could possibly imagine.  My soul follows where my eyes look and soars over miles and miles of the multicolored, impossible landscape. That such a thing could be, in this world, is awe inspiring. Looking at the Grand Canyon, you get the feeling that anything is reachable. My spirit was transported to the highest pinnacle, the lowest chasm. How could this small, fragile vessel of a human body contain a thing so huge? Wow! I have no other words to describe it.

Take a look at the slideshow. Make it big! Turn it up! These pics needed some music…

In such a place, it’s no surprise that we met some new, great friends. Eva and Robert. They were enjoying something that I have no stomach for: sleeping in the back of a pickup (with a cap) in zero degree weather and snow. And yet, as you’ll see in the photos, they were happy and beautiful! Stronger than me, they are for sure. We shared meals with them and a fantastic hike down into the Canyon with them. They were a joy! We hope to see them again somewhere, sometime.

The Grand Canyon belongs to all Americans. You should go and see it – soon!

DAVID:  One of my favorite things was watching families and couples take pictures of each other.  It looked trite at first, then I saw the beauty.  The beauty of sharing that first reaction that keeps hitting you for days and every time you turn around.  The light, ledges, shadows and sheer heights all grab you over and over.  Its hard to walk away.

I am a speck.  A speck in space and time.  The canyon is SO big, vast, as a barrier you must travel hundreds of miles in either direction to get around it.  You can’t see it all without turning or tipping your head.   Neither breadth, nor height.  It is not a spectacle, just to be stared at; you can walk in.  You can walk WAY in.  For hours you can walk down.  Then for more hours, you can walk back up and out.  Switchback trails go down for hours into millions of years of geology lessons and multiple climates and wildlife zones.  You HAVE to VISIT yourself!

Here’e the slide show:

– Jane & David

DAY 128 – 01/20/2013 – In Which We Hike in the Snowy Woods with the Livingstons

We have but one neighbor in the Heart of the Rockies RV Park and they are as much fun as we could want. The Livingston’s are traveling with their 4 young sons in an RV and, like us, chose to stay in Salida and ski for a while. You can check out their blog, Livingston Family Adventures, here.

There’s no new snow right now at Monarch Mountain, so we decided to take a hike together.

From left are Mason, Asher (with his eyes closed), dad Gabe, Adin, mom Marcie and Mark

From left are Mason, Asher (with his eyes closed), dad Gabe, Adin, mom Marci and Mark

The sky was cerulean blue and much, much warmer (mid 30’s and sunny) than it had been a couple weeks ago.

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The Colorado Trail is 486 miles and runs past our campground home, just a couple miles up the mountain road.

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The boys are pretty small but they can hike! Mason rode on Gabe’s back and the other three were troopers.

We signed in; necessary to find you if you don’t come out! Also, keeps track of trail usage.

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The boys each carried their own backpack and were wearing snowpants and boots. Asher led the way:

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We had some nice views:

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We saw animal tracks.

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The paw print could have been someone’s dog but we preferred to think of it as a wolf or coyote track!

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We walked into the woods quite a way, but the boys started to get a little cold and tired. Besides, snow that only comes up to my ankles is knee deep to a child!

Adin

Adin

A yummy alfresco lunch back at the car:

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Mason, Adin, Asher and Mark

The boys still had some hiking left in them so we headed up the snowy road in search of a geocache.

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Some scrambling was required. Gabe had an opportunity to give the two older boys a little rock climbing lesson:

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Sadly, no cache was found, but lots of fun was had!

– Jane

DAYS 99 & 100 – 12/22-23/2012 Hiking Big Bend National Park

THE STARS AT NIGHT – ARE BIG AND BRIGHT -(clap, clap, clap, clap) – DEEP IN THE HAAAARRT OF TEXAS!

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I couldn’t resist adding that! Because, the stars really are big and they really are bright here in Southwest Texas. Of course, anywhere in the world the stars are bigger and brighter out in the country with little or no lights. But Texas is one of those Western states where the sky is really big; the better to enjoy the nighttime display.

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We camped at 5,400 feet above sea level in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend NP, the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. All around us was the Chihuahuan Desert, arid and hostile to life.

The Chisos Range provides an oasis of sorts, protecting small scrubby trees and hardy plants and catching water from the infrequent rains.

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At the Pour-Off. Careful, it’s slippery and a long way down!

Arriving from Marathon in the afternoon, we set up camp and took a short hike on the Window Trail. The window refers to the Basin “pour-off” where rainwater drains out of the valley to the desert below.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

The campground was nearly full. Camping for Christmas seems so odd to me but, I come from an area where it’s cold and damp in the winter, sometimes snowy.

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Here in south Texas, the days are in the 70’s to 80’s and the nights get only cool. So, camping at Christmas is a treat that probably takes them a little out of the holiday frenzy.

Next day, we took on the Emory Peak hike; 11 miles and 2,500 ft elevation. It took us six hours to complete the circuit.

Iris tags along

Iris tags along

The day was gorgeous and the people we met on the trail were delightful. Of course, everyone was on vacation, doing something fun and challenging so of course we were all happy!

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

There’s no mountain biking in the national park, so we set out for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

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You drive through the desert to get there, through tiny, sun-baked towns. We met a transplanted Marylander in a small grocery store in Terlingua. She and her Texan co-worker agreed that not everyone who decides to leave their home and move to South Texas stays.

Terlingua cemetery

Terlingua cemetery

It’s quite a different world. No shopping to speak of, no movie theater, no gym, no hospital, no big sports venues, no new car dealer, etc, etc. Baking hot summers. Isolation aplenty.

– Jane

“He said”, “She said” – WHY we are doing this ?…

Here, on this post, we both address the question “Why are we doing this?”. For some, the answer is obvious. They know why. Others, well, we just might be sharing a bit of inspiration to get you going on your own Tramper Voyage. We’ll explain how we, ordinary middle class people with debt, are able to do this, in another post. 

We didn’t read each other’s entries so there may be duplications.

HE SAID:

Why?:  Well of course, haven’t you ever wished your vacation would last “just a few more days”?  I like to play.  If you know me well enough though, you’ll concede I love to work too.  Balancing both is not an automatic function for me.  I often have to remind myself to leave work, to not go see “one more patient”, or to just sit still for a change.  My most common activity after a full day at work is to stuff in a meal, head for my workshop and attack some project or home repair until just minutes before going to sleep.  I’m told I have 2 speeds, busy and asleep.  Most of our biggest home projects (including several of over 400 hours) were all completed while also working full-time and without investing significant vacation time into them.  It is this same drive that completed the camper and safening-up the truck just before this adventure.

With this zeal, I bike, ski, hike or just plain have fun.  I find laughter easily and love nothing more than to share it.  In the 80’s I moved to Silverthorne, Colorado and taught skiing, such that I skied 183 days in one year.  Some of my skiing peers left the Rockies for South America or New Zealand for Winters there.  Play can be a way of life.  Teaching all abilities and ages of people is an avenue into their joys and ways.  I know from those days that too much work dulls me.  PT has held my interest longer than any other career or job and I expect it will do so for many more years to come.

Jane and I imagined some of this trip to follow “retirement”, that traditional time when we would have more time, to have earned enough money to “stop working”.  In the hospital I see the tragic reality of people not being well enough to get out there and do those things they’ve planned.  Jane’s Cancer shook our world.  It could come back any time, or I could find one of my own.   Or, I could “get hit by a bus” as they say.

I wanted to go from place to place, adventure to adventure and not agonize over a “vacation ending too soon”.  So many times I go to some incredible place or just meet a great group of people there and have to “rush back on Monday for work”.  I feel anyone who can arrange a dream deserves to try it.

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I love the world.  I love mountains, streams, valleys and the variety found in nature.  A mountain vista is not a coffee-table book to look at.  I love to be a part of it, to sweat the work of uphills, and generally just to say “weee!”  I love to share that glee and my overall zest for life.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

If I felt any need to “justify” this much fun, and I don’t, I would think back to my 23 credit semester in undergrad.  I would think back to grinding through Physical Therapy School at University of Maryland, Baltimore.  I would think about coming in early, leaving late at work everywhere I’ve ever worked.  Or being oily and covered with various grits or metal dusts as a machinist.  Wearing earplugs, eye protection and a respirator for eight hours makes for a long day.  I always seem to throw myself into projects or jobs, so its only natural to throw myself into this.

A little rust repair but the price was right

A little rust repair but the price was right

Some other dreams of mine simmer still.  They include sailing the Intracoastal Waterway.  Riding a motorcycle on a cool trip.  Introducing people to some of the many skills I’ve been blessed with.  Growing more of my own food, raising animals for milk or meat.  None of these are off the table.  I hope you have a bunch of your own dreams too.  The “daily grind” sort of camouflages and envelopes dreams.  Credit cards pound your possibilities lower.  The biggest dream killer is “evaluation”, thinking “I can’t do that”.  Other people are often incredulous; listen to them too much and that can stop you too.

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Another big motivator is our own surprise in our “fifties” at our current ability to bike, hike, and ski.  With a little pre-season prep, a sensible plan and tempered paces we “go for six hours and more”.  We can’t imagine this duration or intensity at 65  or 70 years old.  Our midlife career changes almost guarantee we’ll be working way past 62.  So, there is NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT!  We are in the Tramper Voyage, an adventure of a lifetime.  Join us if you can, whether online, in spirit or at any stop along the way.

– David

SHE SAID:

Many years ago, when I was in my early twenties, I went on vacation to the Outer Banks every September. Our group of several young couples rented an isolated beach house. We stayed on the beach all day and prepared gourmet meals in the evening in the spacious house. It was idyllic, to say the least. I remember with what great longing I wanted my life to always be like our Hatteras weeks. Leisure, exercise, lots of time outdoors, visiting with friends. Reality always called me painfully back to the world of working, home maintenance, traffic and bill-paying.

But, then, inevitably, I grew up. Maturity cast a hazy distance over those free, wild weeks of my youth. I became totally engaged and happy with child-rearing and returning to college for a career I loved.

Years passed and, being a realist, I thought little about the life of leisurely exploring the beautiful world around all of us. Oh, there were trips and vacations aplenty. Wonderful trips into the wild or off on a bike or to a child’s playground. But, always there was a returning, too soon, to the “real” world.

But, over time, things happen that offer lessons. Lessons about how fragile and short life is. Lessons like the one my brother-in-law, Ed, taught me. Ed worked very long and very hard at his job as an investment banker. His dream was to live on the water and roam around on a boat. They bought the house on the water, but soon after, Ed was diagnosed with lymphoma. He died before he could enjoy the boat and take it out on the sea. The boat’s name? “SOMEDAY”. Ed’s ‘someday’ never happened.

As a health care worker, I see many people who retire only to find that they can no longer do the things they loved because of sickness or infirmity. Sometimes, sickness or infirmity happen very shortly after the long-awaited retirement date. So, there’s a lifetime of working and, of necessity, putting off ‘someday’. Then ‘someday’ never comes.

Some of the lessons we got at our jobs were joyful ones, of course. Like patient Louis C, who, well into his ninety’s, was as spry and quick-witted as you could want to be. Witnessing his sparkle, he would be asked for his secret. He summed it up thusly: “Don’t let the chair get ya!” Good advice, for daily living and good health. But it’s also good advice for life, especially if you paraphrase a bit to “Don’t let the negative get ya!”

Then, two days before Christmas in 2009, I got the hardest lesson of all. Stage 3 breast cancer. A very difficult year followed.

David and I had been talking about taking a sabbatical before the cancer diagnosis. Kind of a mini pre-retirement while we could still ski and mountain bike the way we like. Not a real sabbatical where they hold your job for you. Maybe even pay you a stipend? No, not that kind. A long trip. Longer than 2 weeks; longer that 8 weeks. Maybe for six months to a year!

Long enough to immerse ourselves in nature, to acclimate ourselves to be physically as strong as we can be, to ingratiate ourselves into the lives of far-flung family and friends and to indulge ourselves in seeing and experiencing some of the most beautiful things this country has to offer.

After cancer came calling, our resolve was strengthened. We bought a trailer. David spent two years fixing it up. We did the math and determined that we had just enough money for our trip. We dreamed of where we’d go.

Then, the ultimate step that made it all real: We quit our jobs!

On September 15, 2012 we pulled out of Towson, overloaded and overjoyed!

– Jane

(PS – I was feeling down one day, letting the negative run away with me, and I wrote this paragraph, which is now funny and completely unworthy of this blog post:

“People who do not take tramper voyages don’t go because they’re afraid of what might happen or because they think they can’t afford it. People don’t go on tramper voyages b/c they know that crap, ridiculous crap, happens everywhere. Things you buy turn out to be crap, services you depend on turn out to be unreliable, people let you down, no matter if you’re on an extended vacation or fully in the rat race. It’s very disappointing to experience this crap when you’ve set up your expectations that things will go well, because you feel you’ve done such a good job of insulating yourself. People don’t go on tramper voyages because they know that crap follows you everywhere.”)