Cape Henlopen State Park, Delaware

Days 2 and 3, May 19 & 20, 2025

Miles traveled: 153

Olivia has joined us for a few days. It’s great to have her here. We raised a good camper. She brought her tent and equipment and set up camp with us. She also put her feet in the ocean with us.

Here’s the proof that we went in the Atlantic Ocean:

Our feet are wet I swear. I went in to my ankles. If you’re looking for a shot of us swimming in the waves you won’t find it. It was way too cold!

Olivia likes to seek treasure:

We found a beautiful trail with a boardwalk across a couple miles of marsh:

Lots of birds, turtles and marsh plants.

Olivia left on Tuesday to return to her job and David and I headed on to the next adventure.

Jane.

Tramper Voyage 2

How exciting! We lead charmed lives. We get to take another long journey in a self contained vehicle!

Day 1 of Tramper Voyage 2, May 18, 2025

Miles traveled:  153

Where we landed:  Cape Henlopen State Park, DE

Tramper Voyage 2 has begun! We left Baltimore this afternoon and drove to the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Henlopen in Delaware. The idea is to step into the Atlantic, drive 3,000 miles and step into the Pacific, all in a multiple-weeks-long ramble across the northern U.S.  We have no reservations and no set itinerary. We’ll visit a few friends but mostly see the sights, meet the people and enjoy our health and freedom.

Thirteen years ago in 2012, we quit our jobs and took Tramper Voyage 1. Six months on the road in a 1957 Yellowstone travel trailer pulled by a grossly underpowered 4Runner named Marfa. Why did we do it? Two reasons: 1.) I was a recent cancer survivor. I’d had a couple years of heavy-duty chemo, radiation therapy and surgeries. We decided to celebrate and take a trip. 2.) We both worked in healthcare and had seen all the unlucky people. People who had finally retired and were ready to travel. Their dreams of freedom were dashed when a post retirement doctor visit yielded a cancer diagnosis or heart disease. Or maybe they fell off the roof a week into retirement and lost a leg (true story).

We didn’t want to wait for retirement. A frugal lifestyle and jobs that we could replace allowed us the freedom to go. So we did. And we went back to work again after the trip of a lifetime. It’s chronicled here on “The Voyage of the Tramper” blog we wrote as we traveled. www.trampervoyage.com

Fast forward to today. We are now both fully retired. We bought a large van and set it up with a bed and portable kitchen. Her name is Helen (because she’s a Honda Odyssey). Having a van with a bed means that we can ‘stealth’ camp this time. It won’t be so obvious that we live in our rig. Helen makes me feel like a teenager again! A van with a bed was a very popular party venue in the 70’s. Or so I’m told…

Stay tuned and find out what we’re up to!

Jane

This post written at Whole & Grounded Cafe, Woodbury, NJ

Here-we-go-again!

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For our last trip, I picked leaving in Fall, to arrive and ski as long as possible. That turned out to be 42 days in Colorado, mostly at Monarch on the Continental Divide. We savored a few other resorts, Loveland, Copper Mt., Cooper, Beaver Creek and Purgatory among others. We lived in our beloved Tramper in the coldest Winter in our “vortex” above Salida. Jane longed to hop out onto warm grass so much that upon leaving CO for home, we went West. The Grand Canyon afforded 15 degree f in February, but at least as we hiked to the bottom, it was 60. The foothills of the Sierras in Three Rivers were a delightful change, but once we headed East towards home on I-70, of course I got to ski again in Loveland, and our “Carney Nature” was key to being able to park on an upper lot during a storm, guided by a nice security guard who instructed us to move down by 5:00 AM when they would plow that lot.

That, of course brings us to this time. Jane picked Spring! She wants to see Teddy Roosevelt National Park. During our informal scouting moments, she also announced the idea to start at Cape Henlopen, DE and dip our toes into the Atlantic. I knew instantly where that led. Our trip will partially be guided by folks we can say “hi” to along the circuitous way. “Mapquest” says it 41 hours driving past Milwaukee to Kirkland, Washington. That’ll be an easy 10 day drive with stops added. Of course one of our guiding questions to locals met along the way, “what should we do tomorrow?” could easily add 10 more adventurous days to that path.

Last time was a 1957 Yellowstone camper I resurrected, towed by a ’95 Toyota Forerunner that was not really up to the task. Trailers teach you a lot about backing into places you think you can fit. They teach you that even a small engine working hard, gets <10 mpg. This time we move with more stealth and economy. We also don’t expect to do an undecided number of months on the road. (You can sigh with relief, there won’t be >180 posts/6 months to follow us this time.). We are expecting, not planning about 4-6 weeks.

I’ll detail just a bit about our selected vehicle. We had our usual adventures even finding this one. Budget of <10K, we saw lots. We “spoke” with quite a few Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist sellers who turned out to speak no English. Using “Translate” on a phone is a tough way to haggle. Some of languages we expected, African and Philippine dialects, but the old Italian speaking guy surprised us a little. (The texts with syntax errors did give us clues about ESOL). Finally, we found a Pakistani guy whose price on a high-mile 2010 Honda Odyssey was well beneath our budget. I will admit his fast toss of his phone to show me the one-owner Carfax led me to spend my own $40 to get a copy of my own. A few oil changes, brake inspections and the brief ownership of a 200,000 mile vehicle informed me it was a “keeper”. We paid to extra ~$1000 and had a timing belt, water pump and serpentine belt put on.

Driving the new friend and dreaming this Winter began to inform my plans. I never imagine being able to plan anything without free-thinking ideas for a few weeks at least. Ideas that seemed great are replaced by better at odd times, in the shower, or riding a bike. Brains are to be cherished, fed and allowed to work their own way sometimes. We camped (slept on the empty back floor) in the Adirondacks in October on the was to Cousin Caroline’s wedding in Stowe. I did the same solo for a bit Spring skiing at Mt Snow VT. Again, “where should I park?” asked at a local restaurant, led me to a plowed lot at Haystack MT, and abandoned ski area where a handful of other cold-weather vehicles moored for the night.

It was these one-two night forays that led me to sort the features of an empty minivan into an “action plan”.

David

The Exhilaration of Slowing Down

How do you convey an emotion with a photograph? How do you set the tone and allow the viewer to feel what you felt? Real photographers have been pondering and struggling to answer these questions for a century and a half now, with varying degrees of success.

I’m no artist. I take photos for fun. So, my photos may need a bit of explanation to create a ‘feeling’.

Here’s the setup:

I like to mountain bike. David and I love to share being in the woods on a bike with others, so when our neighbors showed an interest, we were happy to show them ‘our’ trails. The day was spectacular. Sunny skies but not too hot and barely humid. Still in high summer, everything was lush and green.

Problem was, our neighbors are 20 years younger and a whole lot more fit than me. Adventure Race fit. Personal Trainer fit. Now, don’t get me wrong, they were as gracious as could be and really were enjoying the day. But, after a couple of hours of desperately trying to keep up with my nice friends, I’d really had enough of being the anchor. The ball and chain. The person who makes the ride last twice as long as it should because she’s so slow!

So, I begged off, taking another route through the woods. I know the trails well so David was sure I’d be fine. David, by the way, can hang with almost anyone on a bike. One young admirer said David has ‘old guy strength’. I would dispute the ‘old guy’ description but David is very strong on a bike!

For a while, off on my own, I rode at my typical slower pace, thoroughly enjoying nature all around me. The birds were outdoing themselves singing their sweet songs. I startled a young deer. After a while, I saw a side trail I’d never used before. I knew it would be short since it appeared to be a fisherman’s trail down to the water. So, I took it.

Around a bend, I stopped. Oh, it was a beautiful spot! Very peaceful and calm and beautiful, beautiful. Time to relax here for a while! Do you ever find yourself somewhere, or perhaps with someone, and get a sense of ‘right-ness’? Like you’re in the exact right spot at the exact right time? That’s where I was!

I pulled out my camera and took some shots. Can you feel it?

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– Jane

The Importance of Summer Evenings – Baltimore Bike Party, July 2013

Deep in winter, when the weather is steely and cold, I dream of nights like this. When the air is a soft caress and the night is inviting. Languid. Delicious. There’s no huddling for warmth; no running for shelter from icy winds. Instead, amid the singing of katydids, the night invites you to stay. Maybe extend your arms into the sultry evening air and take a few spins. Is it the spinning making you giddy or the extravagantly pleasurable evening? Hard to know and hard to care. Life’s delights are to be savored, not analyzed.

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At the midpoint. As night fell, this woman’s dress came alive (with David’s spare batteries to the rescue, as she had forgotten her power source)!

On Friday, we took a ride with the Baltimore Bike Party on such a night. Each month, a bike ride is organized, guided by “The 3 R’s”: RIDE, RESPECT and REVELRY. The ride through Baltimore City as night falls is short. Just five or six miles through wildly divergent neighborhoods. Parks and slums. Mansions and museums.

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We rode in golden midsummer evening light

The thousands of people on bikes make this ride a safe one. Safe enough for even the most timid and safety-minded individuals to take a tour down the hard-bitten streets that are home to Baltimore’s poorest citizens. And those citizens come out onto the sidewalks to view the parade passing by in the warm summer evening.

We, the cyclists, have a unique opportunity to send them some love by way of a happy greeting. A smile, a wave and an invitation to join us next time on the last Friday of the month. Maybe, just maybe, one or two of the folks we see can gather a little hope from us. Or, perhaps they just enjoy the spectacle of thousands of nutty people on bikes shouting, singing, waving, laughing and having a really great time.

Make sure to turn your sound on to enjoy the party!

Can you spot these things in the video?:

– a small person shadowing us, riding a small bike on the sidewalk

– two rats on bikes

– people out on their stoops and sidewalks

Each ride has a theme. This month, it was “Moonlight Madness” with as many lights on bikes as we could muster. (Last month, the theme was the ’80’s. See David’s post). David rigged our bikes with a Dewalt drill battery pack and plenty of LED lights from Ikea. Other folks found ways to add lights, too. Almost all of the bikes were sporting head-and-tail lights. What an awesome pageant of lighted bikes it was! A turn around Lake Montebello revealed the parade to be more than a mile long.

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David’s bike was a sailboat. The red light in the middle is his tail light. He added extensions to front and back to create this fantastic ship in the night!

There’s always a stopping point about halfway through the ride. The revelry starts in earnest here! Meeting new friends and greeting old friends. Lighted bikes were admired. There were some truly awesome rigs! Those so inclined break out the alcohol and make it a real party atmosphere. Even David and Jane partook of a generously offered cold(!) beer.

Then, before we knew it, we were at the end of the ride, in Druid Hill Park. We lingered only briefly in the velvet dark, lit by decorated bikes and illuminated party pavilions. My bed was calling, loudly by this time. A day of driving had preceded the ride for me, so off we went into the night, back to the car and home. But, not without being extremely grateful for a night like this one. A happy, happy bike ride on a beautiful summer evening…

– Jane