The Voyage of the Tramper

Part 1

Day 10-13, 2025

Miles: 2,589

Months ago, as we were planning this trip, David asked me if there was a special place I wanted to go. Without hesitation, I said “Theodore Roosevelt”. Around a decade ago, I read several books about our 26th President. Usually, when I read more about a famous person from the past, I am disappointed. Probably because I see them through the lens of the present. Teddy, however, did not disappoint. He was a product of his time, of course, and had his foibles but Teddy’s accomplishments as President and his exploits and personality even before that, made me want to see where he had had a life changing interlude before his Presidency. His descriptions of the land in North Dakota and the way it looked and sounded and smelled was beguiling. The changes this environment made in him after twin tragedies of losing his wife and mother in quick succession was fascinating. Teddy himself was fascinating. I had to see the land he loved best until the end of his life.

When last we posted, we were in Milwaukee, WI visiting friends. We drove through Minnesota rather quickly. It’s a beautiful state but still looked like our home back in Maryland. We wanted those western landscapes! We stopped for the night at a lovely spot called Lake Carlos State Park in Minnesota and headed out the next morning with our goal to arrive in Theodore Roosevelt the next evening.

TRNP is divided in sections – a North Unit, a South Unit and Elkhorn Ranch (Teddy’s ranch for a time).

We took a hike in the North Unit, out on a trail into the stunning hills. We saw a very large prairie dog town. Acres of cute little furry friends going into and out of their burrows.

Jane

Days 8 & 9, May 25 & 26, 2025

Miles: 1,394

We visited more friends in Milwaukee, Wisconsin on Sunday. I had never met Thor and Cherylann. David knew Thor back in grade school days in Baltimore at St Mary. Thor married Cherylann after he moved to Wisconsin so neither of us had really met her. What a great couple and how close I feel to them already. Sometimes kindred spirits meet. ❤️

They’re so cute.

Lake Michigan is so BLUE. The Great Lakes is the largest system of freshwater lakes in the world. Some of them were quite polluted but now are cleaner. Hope they can stay that way.

Thor and David on a stop during a bike ride along the shoreline of Lake Michigan.

The van is working out beautifully. It’s so comfortable to sleep in and holds everything we need. It does feel like it’s overflowing at times until we wrestle it back into shape. Everything has to go in its place or it seems like the doors won’t close! David did such a great job getting it all built. A custom job for a great trip.

Now, on to the west!

Jane

Whenever I drive along a highway, I look out the window at the miles of woods assuming there are always trails in there somewhere. These days we have “Trailforks”, an app that downloads state maps of trails, dozens, no hundreds of trails in every direction. Using this reminds me of how we find camping/sleeping sites, but that is for another post.

With no fixed plan and only our daily thoughts about reservations, we decide by the seat of our pants. Now I know what that really means for us; when my butt hurts from driving we look for something to do. This time we saw trails available not far from our ridiculously long West-heading highway.

Trailforks did not disappoint. Oddly enough, we’ve known for a long time that better trails are always found near population centers (ie Baltimore has access to many miles of great trails). There are more people, more volunteers, more bike shops and collaboration to create and maintain good trails. South Bend, IN was no exception, Bristol, nearby had several options. The loops there were short, folded over themselves and sweepy-fun. We met locals who were all friendly and directed us only when we asked. We rode the usual ~10 miles, a bit over an hour of fun. After we settled in and cooked a quick veggie peanut-curry at a picnic table. All-in-all a win for a 5 minute detour from the progress West.

Keeping up with Jane

No, the big drum is not a mini-keg. It’s a small propane tank, about half the size of a grill bottle that fuels our stove or heater. It holds the equivalent of about 5 “green can” containers of propane without the environmental or recycling challenge.

David

Day 5 – May 22, 2025

Miles traveled: 492

We came to this magical place after visiting friends in New Jersey. We had a day in between and visited the waterfalls at Ricketts Glen in central Pennsylvania.

The thing is, it was raining. And chilly. If I were solo traveling, I probably would have spent a few hours in a warm, dry coffee shop. Maybe done some light shopping in a warm, dry boutique. But, I am traveling with my wonderful and intrepid husband David, who never lets a little nasty weather interfere with plans. So, raincoat and rain pants were pulled out along with nice, dry hiking boots. In spite of a lot of grumbling on my part, it was a fabulous day. The rain made the waterfalls roar and the chill wasn’t noticeable after hiking up a few rock staircases.

Jane

(written in the van, boondocking at Twin Maples Orchard outside Galien, Michigan)