Category Archives: Photos

DAYS 107 to 110 – The Push Through New Mexico

Winter is here in the West! So, New Mexico was, unfortunately given short shrift.

It’s a beautiful state. We’ve visited before, about 16 years ago with Olivia. We loved the Zuni Mountains, Jemez Springs and Santa Fe. It was in New Mexico 16 years ago that we visited the Acoma Pueblo Indian Reservation and witnessed an awesome Powwow.

But, because we worried a bit about getting into our long-term campground at Monarch Mountain in the snow, we hightailed it through the Land of Enchantment.

Our journey north took three nights of sleeping in New Mexico. Our campsites varied widely. The first night was in a good old Walmart parking lot in the town of Carlsbad.

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The night of 12/30, was much more interesting. We drove into the tiny town of Vaughn and stopped for gas. Turns out, we decided to spend the night in the gas station’s vast parking lot.

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During the night, the wind kicked up and roared across the desert, bringing a few inches of fine, dry snow with it.

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It was somewhat of a noisy night, considering the wind and the nearby train tracks! Lucky for us, they weren’t using the train horn.

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Tumbleweed! Lined up on the fences after a windy night.

The next night, on New Year’s Eve, we found ourselves in Carson National Forest not too far from Taos, NM.

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Carson National Forest

Calling this huge area a forest, in the middle of the big empty desert, was a stretch. There were not many trees! We pulled off the two-lane highway down an unpaved forest road.

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It was maybe one of the coolest free spots we’ve camped in! Away from the highway, sheltered by a couple of big juniper bushes, we rang in the New Year.

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The Rocky Mountains get bigger on the road to Monarch, Colorado.

The Rocky Mountains get bigger on the road to Monarch, Colorado.

We had about an hour of daylight left on New Year’s Day when we pulled into the Heart of the Rockies campground, just a few miles down the valley from Monarch ski mountain. We were finally in Colorado!

Here, the Tramper and Marfa, the 4Runner, will get a break from each other for the next month. We settled in, cozy in the Tramper that David made.

And now, let the skiing begin!

– Jane

DAY 106 – 12/29/2012 Carlsbad Caverns, Oh My! ?

I have no particular interest in caverns.  Went spelunking once in the 80’s with a machinist co-worker.  We entered a little slit of a grassy hole in West Virginia, slithered between a few cracks I wouldn’t be comfortable with now, descended about 80 or 100 feet into the ground to a rocky platform, where ropes would be needed to go any further.  Each of us wore a carbide lamp, so we turned them out.  DARK.  Cave-dark.  Darker than anything I’d ever seen or since.  Never had the need to do that sport again though!

Jane too wanted nothing to do with caves, holes, caverns or closed spaces of any kind.  Jean-Philippe (our trusted advisor again), assured us that it would be more like a cathedral or auditorium.  Well lit and not constricted at all.  I worried that it would be a light-show or organ music background.  I don’t usually like a natural wonder that gets over humanized or commercialized.

But here we were, driving North on the only road that made sense for where we were headed in Colorado.  Even that roadrunner and coyote gave us chuckle as if to say, “we were on the right road at the right time”.  And smack along the way were two more National Park sites where we could use our Parks Pass.  Quadalupe Peak looked beautiful and is the highest point in Texas.  We had arrived too late in the day to hike the whole round trip to the summit.  We don’t feel the draw to become “peak-baggers”, just love those tough hikes when the time is right.  So as we left, both of us looked likely to mosey on into the cavern at Carlsbad, New Mexico.

Access is from a mountain ridge with a big parking lot.  A big, full parking lot.  We sort of forget that this is a holiday week.  Lines snaking along ropes led to a smiling ranger who graciously gave us our tickets “free” after checking my I.D.and National Parks Annual Pass.  While waiting we read about several options including 4-6 hour King’s Tours with a ranger, but also some shorter options.  A glaring flat screen message blinked through some sales options and also a Big Red Warning to expect LONG WAITS at the elevator to come back up!

We saw another option even though we had only arrived just after 2:00 in the afternoon.  Hiking in or out through the natural entrance was allowed.  The overall distance covered would be about 1 ½ miles each way and descend over 750′ into the cavern.  Cool! It was going to be like hiking an upside-down mountain!  We’d much rather hike than ride an elevator anyway.

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The entrance has been kept nearly the same as when it was “found” by white explorers.  There IS evidence of Native American use, but not very deep and not very conclusive as to who, when and how much.  Shards from pottery from varied sources have been inconclusive.  were they “real finds” or discoverers looking for attention?

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The only way to descend any great amount in a short distance is with looping switchbacks.  And those switchbacks did LOOP!  The surface was asphalt, dry and very grippy.  The trail about 40″ wide and lined with a nice steel rail everywhere it counted.  True to word, the place is “cavernous”.  BIG, HIGH, WIDE in places.  Mostly dry and a general constant temperature, but a welcome 90% humidity, particularly after weeks of desert dryness at less than 30%.

Describing the formations is about as silly as the process of naming some of them.  Kinda like cloud-watching metaphors.  I’ll let the pictures do their magic, leave out my 1000 words.  Suffice to say, we went all the way down into and around the big room and enjoyed that hike back out!  Jane continues to impress me with her growth as a hiker.  She really rebuilt her heart after that darned chemo (It had snuffed her cardiac Ejection fraction from a baseline of 72% down to below 50%, and a healthy normal average is about 65%).   We were passed by only one guy, a runner, all sweaty and breathing hard. Jane paused only about twice on 2 of the many, many stone benches on the way back to our world.

– David

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DAYS 99 & 100 – 12/22-23/2012 Hiking Big Bend National Park

THE STARS AT NIGHT – ARE BIG AND BRIGHT -(clap, clap, clap, clap) – DEEP IN THE HAAAARRT OF TEXAS!

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I couldn’t resist adding that! Because, the stars really are big and they really are bright here in Southwest Texas. Of course, anywhere in the world the stars are bigger and brighter out in the country with little or no lights. But Texas is one of those Western states where the sky is really big; the better to enjoy the nighttime display.

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We camped at 5,400 feet above sea level in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend NP, the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. All around us was the Chihuahuan Desert, arid and hostile to life.

The Chisos Range provides an oasis of sorts, protecting small scrubby trees and hardy plants and catching water from the infrequent rains.

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At the Pour-Off. Careful, it’s slippery and a long way down!

Arriving from Marathon in the afternoon, we set up camp and took a short hike on the Window Trail. The window refers to the Basin “pour-off” where rainwater drains out of the valley to the desert below.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

Western bluebird, anticipating the falling of crumbs.

The campground was nearly full. Camping for Christmas seems so odd to me but, I come from an area where it’s cold and damp in the winter, sometimes snowy.

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Here in south Texas, the days are in the 70’s to 80’s and the nights get only cool. So, camping at Christmas is a treat that probably takes them a little out of the holiday frenzy.

Next day, we took on the Emory Peak hike; 11 miles and 2,500 ft elevation. It took us six hours to complete the circuit.

Iris tags along

Iris tags along

The day was gorgeous and the people we met on the trail were delightful. Of course, everyone was on vacation, doing something fun and challenging so of course we were all happy!

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

At the top of Emory Peak, highest peak in Big Bend.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

Vista from the Emory Peak hike. The Tramper is down in that valley. If you squint really hard (or click on the pic) you may see a white dot on the valley floor, which would be one of the campers in the campground.

There’s no mountain biking in the national park, so we set out for Big Bend Ranch State Park.

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You drive through the desert to get there, through tiny, sun-baked towns. We met a transplanted Marylander in a small grocery store in Terlingua. She and her Texan co-worker agreed that not everyone who decides to leave their home and move to South Texas stays.

Terlingua cemetery

Terlingua cemetery

It’s quite a different world. No shopping to speak of, no movie theater, no gym, no hospital, no big sports venues, no new car dealer, etc, etc. Baking hot summers. Isolation aplenty.

– Jane

DAY 73 – 11/26/2012 From Atlanta to the Sea

Today, we woke up in a completely different world on Jekyll Island, GA.

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Driftwood Beach

Driftwood Beach

David got a serious case of Helmet Hair on our island bike ride

David got a serious case of Helmet Hair on our island bike ride

 

Yesterday,we visited Stone Mountain in north central Georgia, near Atlanta.

Stone Mountain, with it's bas relief of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson

Stone Mountain, with it’s bas relief of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson

Of course we had to climb to the top.

Of course we had to climb to the top.

 

The day-long drive from Stone Mountain to Georgia’s Atlantic coast took us through some pretty depressed areas. As the land flattened and moss appeared hanging from the limbs of trees, we travelled through cotton fields and lots of boarded-up and abandoned buildings. Failed businesses and shuttered factories passed by. Pawn shops and liquor stores ruled the day. Most of the homes still inhabited had wheels. The Sons of Confederate Veterans and multitudinous Baptist churches provided some comfort and maybe a reason to get up in the morning.

Grinding poverty is not a pretty sight. We felt extremely lucky, more so than ever, to be taking a trip like ours. You just never know how people live until you catch a glimpse of it. Night fell on a dismal landscape. My heart goes out to the people of central Georgia…

Approaching the ocean in the dark, you can smell it and feel it even when you can’t see it. The aroma of sea salt and marine life is unmistakable. An arching causeway took us over tidal marshes and the Intracoastal Waterway to Jekyll Island.

It’s so very different finding a place to camp in the dark as opposed to finding a roost in the daylight. So, we stopped in a convenience store and met Tyler, who pointed out the way to the campground.

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He was a very poised and articulate young man. He listened to the story of our travels and then told us of his own experiences upon joining a carnival which roamed around the northern US and up into Western Canada. He was a kindred spirit; another traveller discovering that the journey itself is as important as the destination.

Coincidentally, Tyler’s Mom is the campground host on Jekyll Island. Since we knew her son now, we were treated like family and given a lovely, large campsite. Jean was her name; I’m sure she’s kind to everyone in this same way.

David’s early morning walk to the lee side of the island, where the Brunswick River becomes St Simon’s Sound, yielded some awesome photos, like the heron photo at the top of the post, and these:

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A dolphin made an appearance in the tidal marsh

A dolphin made an appearance in the tidal marsh

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– Jane

DAY 67 – 11/20/2012 Foxfire, Mountain City, GA

Driving into Georgia, we saw the word “Foxfire” on the map.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA It conjured up some old memories. What started in the ’70’s as a book was now the Foxfire Museum and Heritage Center.

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I’m so old I remember when the very first Foxfire Book came out.

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Hippie folk everywhere avidly read about life in the past; specifically, about the ways and traditions of rural Southern Appalachia.

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Today, what began as a school project is now a center of learning and a functional museum.

Here's David, trying out the stilts. I would have hurt myself!

Here’s David, trying out the stilts. I would have hurt myself!

The proceeds from the sales of books and magazines funded the preservation and construction of log cabins arrayed in a community on the mountain.

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We visited Foxfire on a beautiful Autumn day. www.foxfire.org

– Jane

PS: Here’s a bonus video. I love things that make noise so I was thrilled to ring the church bell in the little Chapel. Most of the video was shot sideways. To learn how to make it straight would take me until next year at this time, so I put it in as-is. Turn up the volume so you can hear the bell!

(David, ever the Physical Therapist said “Good body mechanics, Jane!”)