Daily Archives: June 11, 2025

Across Eastern Washington

Day 25, June 11, 2025

MILES: 4,124

We’ve camped in two wildly different campsites the last couple of nights. First, was the great one. Lush with Ponderosa Pines and wildflowers.

Deep in the enormous Bitterroot National Forest in Western Idaho. Down a short path through our private woods was the Selway River. No boat docks or really anything but trees and rushing clear water in sight. Truly idyllic.

Driving west into Washington was a different story. We were out of the lush woods. No National Forest wild camping. Just dry, very hot and almost exclusively farmed open plains.

Our next camping site could not have been more different. One hundred degrees when we pulled up to a small state park. Blazing sun everywhere. Trees, where they existed were small and offered little shade. The campsite was no more than a small pullout with a picnic table and fire pit. Did I mention the blazing sun? Oh, and the pit toilet. Let’s just say that it hadn’t had any maintenance for a very long time.

I suppose we could have chosen a far northern route and found peace and shade again but we were on a mission this time to bullet straight across Washington to suburban Seattle for another friend visit.

My image of Washington State is of coastal rainforest. Eastern Washington is not that. Vast grassland plains at the time of white settler conquest, the area is now vast farms of spring wheat. Summer brings the canola crop.

Where once a farm was a piece of land that a farmer and his family and maybe hired hands would be able to manage, now the farms are huge. Thousands of acres. Immense machinery; the farmers now managers and mechanics for mostly automated systems.

And the poor wretched towns. Towns so sad that it wouldn’t be fair to post a photo of them. Massive farms mean far less people to come to town. Main streets are empty, crumbling buildings. Not very many amenities. Nothing for kids to do. I’m sure there are folks who live in these towns who are proud of something. There are efforts to provide shady places to recreate. But big ag has destroyed these towns.

Today, we will enter coastal Washington and we’ll be back to more habitable spaces.

Jane

(Written in a room at the Quality Inn in Othello, WA where we are taking shelter from the merciless sun. Only the second motel room of the trip. The first, in Pennsylvania, was to take shelter from the merciless rain.)

Another fabulous Mountain Bike Destination: Moscow Mountain days 24-25 (accessed from O’hara Campground near Three Rivers, ID, and Spring Valley Reservoir)

Emma from a coffee shop and an earlier post mentioned Moscow Mountain as a worthy stop in Idaho. I can’t believe she didn’t rave on and on, so I will. Oddly this Mecca is nearly all private land, used for timbering etc, but there is public access allowed. A partnership of respect, support and collaboration by MAMBA/Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association allows access at this time. They volunteer, maintain and advocate while also encouraging following the simple rules. Wow, truly a model to follow.

The mountain is a forested Alpine treasure surrounded by fields and fields of agriculture and grazing. We had driven up from Southern ID through a valley and canyon under “extreme heat” warnings and our dash said it had peaked at 101 degrees F. That had prompted me to wrap the battery on Jane’s bike with a cheap foam and foil windshield protector a-la satellite to keep it cool. Thus also wondering whether riding that evening would make any sense at all. Well, sense-it-made! Like many after work rides where you wonder why you are going out and then end up having a great ride that restores your vitality and revives your interest in riding. Yep, that kind of ride, but even better.

This mountain is a magical Alpine world. Pines, huge Ponderosa Pines, firs and majestic Western Red Cedars stretch towering into the sky. Dark, cool corners within had us craning our eyes to see. There were views, but mostly dense, cool havens cut only by narrow twisting banked trails that create the comfort and confidence to keep climbing, keep seeking more. What A Place! What a magical, worth returning, magical place.

Our second day there was a bit different, punctuated by a perfect distant view of a moose and calf and the long climb back out of one of the lower sections of the park. (No pics of moose mama, we wanted to keep far away from her). The loop we chose was Overeasy a “green” trail and may well have been abandoned by the club awhile back. It was on the Trailforks map as well as the trail entry markers, but lacked any of its own trail markers. That, I think, should have been a clue. Combined, the access, loop and return, we descended then climbed over 3100′. The trail reminded me of very early 80’s-90’s riding on prior logging trails long since grown back in to a barely passable width. Jane and I both gathered a few small scratches to bear witness to our divided attention: 1) staying alive/on the trail, 2) avoiding fallen branches and overhanging deadfall.

The bridge not taken (and part of our suspicion this was an original old trail)

More than once we laughed at whether we were still, in fact, following the right trail. The Indian-guide part of me kept us on track, then confirmed by the computer-guide in the phone and we finished in 3-4 hours. Did get a phone call in the wild of all places from Phil, a dear new friend.

David

What’s on Trucks?

Not much explanation needed, but I often see trucks I cannot explain:

Mater
This is how you carry a “truck on a truck”
Nice new cars
Bashed-up cars
Hay is for:
Horses
A new lawn
a trailer to carry something Really heavy
scary fertilizer?
A second blade just to block the road for Rich, Al and Ray this Spring

Hot Springs and Cold Water

Bitterroot National Forest, Idaho

June 7-9, 2025

Without much advance. planning, we look at the map each day for forests, bike trails and sometimes hot springs. Our map is a 2010 National Geographic Road Atlas (remember them?) given to us by Olivia before our last long trip, The Voyage of the Tramper, in 2012.

Our truly lovely host at the O’Hara campsite in far western Mountain Montana recommended a place called Warm Springs, farther into the Bitterroot Wilderness along the Lochsa River. We found it at the end of a two mile hike through the woods.

Very hot and mineral-rich water
Bubbles up out of the ground
My feet in the Lochsa River

The river was at the bottom of the warm springs. The river was very cold, all I could manage there was a foot dip and some splashing. Such a beautiful place and so isolated from the world.

Our campsite later that day was on the Selway Meadows Creek.

A lovely flower, made by our friend Tilda, on the creek by our campsite

Jane