Monthly Archives: May 2025

Just another day in Theodore Roosevelt NP, Day 13 Hiking the Painted Canyon Trail (after a horseback trail ride/horsie-day)

As usual, one activity wasn’t enough so we went off to the visitor centers to talk to rangers about a good hike to complete the day. We listened intently to the basic bison instructions, “there may be a herd at the visitor center fields, but they are pretty docile right now, not calving and just move slow, keeping your distance of 2 school buses or more”. “They may be grazing near the trail, but you can go by, just be predictable, talk low tones and don’t go closer to them”. We picked a trail with plenty of elevation change, it drops down into the canyon with switchbacks immediately after a half mile on the flat.

The trail was dusty-dry and dropped steeply, enough so that I was sitting my butt down a bit to dig in the heels of my boots. Yes, both of us prefer heavy boots above the ankles. We know that real hikers, even AT hikers wear trail running shoes, but the tread and weight of boots is protective and predictable. yep, immediately near blinding down a narrow single track we weren’t more than 1-2 hundred yards in than I looked back and there were bison following us! I told Jane, sending her ahead of me and said I’d figure out if they were faster or slower than we. It seems our natural pace was just a bit faster, so I pressed to keep going as we surely weren’t going to go straight up that pitch to head on with a bison.

After later telling a friend, he mentioned he knew a guy who butchered a large male and its head weighed 600 lbs. The bison knew their trail and my luck such that it is, led me to keep us going down further and take a right turn on a small game-trail looking spot. As we leveled out on a plateau, we looked back again and the crew of four took a left and went to the watering hole. Boy were we glad!

It was a very nice, strenuous hike with 1000′ of descent to be climbed on our way back out if we did the whole trip as an out-and-back. We did do that, going through about 3 Liters of water, wearing dorkie hats, sunscreen and carrying a day pack with emergency supplies worthy of any overnighter. The hike went fine, we only saw people when we were about 3/4 done. On the climb we didn’t kid ourselves as we knew the herd would be grazing somewhere or another. Yep, right on our exit trail up on top. The ranger had told me that bison were the only reason to leave the trail and if they were blocking, it was okay to walk across the meadow and skirt around. And skirt around we did. Jane and I stopped for several long minutes to try to study the herd and decide if we’d be sleeping somewhere on the far side of them?

It was a long wait, but my call was to walk out into the middle of the field, outside of the first two. Then we kept going at that distance until we saw the clear chance to walk back across the field to get back onto the trail. By this time, all of this was in sight of the Painted Canyon visitor center and a huge parking lot.

David

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND

Part 2

Ever the indulgent husband, David agreed that he would ride horses with me at TRNP. He doesn’t like to ride horses. He says they do what they want. A bicycle or a pair of skis only do what you want.

I, on the other hand, love horses. As a child, my parents sent me and my sister for riding lessons. The lessons were for an English saddle. I have yet to ride another horse who isn’t carrying a Western saddle, but the lessons I had made me very comfortable with horses just the same.

The ride was just about an hour, which is enough for an old person like me who gets on a horse once every decade or so. Photos below.

Medora Riding Stables. The town of Medora was around in Roosevelt’s time, late 1800’s.

Ready to roll. Beautiful horses and well kept.
All mounted up.
Me too.
Off we go. I’m the one with the fat ass in the black striped shirt. The lady in the blue shirt is 82 years old! She did great.
“Haha, Miss Jane! You didn’t fall off”. Yes, Bruno, I did good. So did David on Lefty.
Gorgeous ride on a beautiful day in North Dakota!
Well earned rest.

Jane

Logistics: How’s that working out for you?

We decided to be stealthy, use a minivan and avoid towing and all that goes with it. Ideas on paper don’t always go the way you hope. Our first foray into minivan-stealth was during an October trip to Stowe for second-cousin Caroline’s wonderful wedding. Without any real prep other than a camping box and air mats we slept in the Adirondacks. Little things like cup holders and handles at the ceiling were noted to be needed and kept for sure. Later I added a thin wooden riser to level the whole back to be above the heavy metal clamps that usually hold the seats in place. We bought 3″ upholstery foam, deciding that two 24″ wide pieces would be easier to manage than a single 48″ mattress. Jane sewed some delightful covers with inexpensive “Nearly-New” fabric.

Cooking:

While I still have and use an ancient Coleman white gas stove for camping, it stinks when you turn it off and I didn’t feel like carrying a can of white gas all across the country in a minivan. (Though in a pinch that could’ve been a spare gallon to burn in the car). Many of the propane stoves are pretty big but we found this wonderful one at “Nearly New” it’s a Zebco, so full of adolescent appeal, think fishing supplies.

Then back to fuel. I didn’t want to leave a trail of green propane cans which are usually not recycled. Solution, IGNIK is a company who makes small propane tanks to be refilled. Holding approximately 5 of the green cans, it cost only $4.00 to fill. Update coming on how long it lasts 

Coffee:

Jane’s not drinking coffee so I didn’t want to brew for one. Solution, Starbucks Via. The only instant I’ve ever had that tasted strong and consistent.

Power:

Charging Jane’s ebike was my first consideration and I went through numerous ideas and iterations including wrongly buying two inverters while searching for pure sine wave. Then after suggestions from Phil, a technical friend, I looked into it and realized it was going to burn up the minivan alternator trying to pull 150 amps from 130 amp system. (This highlights the joy of friends and people who add to your life, their knowledge comes in handy)

Again, thanks to Phil I researched Bluetti and Jackery as camp power solutions. As whole systems they would include solar but I saved some money by just getting the 1000 Watt model and charging it at electric sites as needed.  Looks like it will go at least 4 days worth of travel and Mt biking and refrigerating before needing a recharge. Maybe someday I’ll add a solar panel too, but not this trip. 

Cooler:

Everyone who has ever camped knows the pain of getting, keeping and sloshing through ice to have fresh food available and not soggy. With that in mind I started looking at electric coolers/tiny fridges. We are SO glad I did.  May not have selected the best cooler, but the Megiu 26L is doing the job perfectly well. It runs on the 12V “lighter” outlet while we drive, stays cold for hours if left off between drives and the Jackery too will run it (could probably go 4 days straight without a plug in)

And, in typical fashion, two days before launch I made a quick, simple cover for the cooler with an insulated liner to “keep it out of the sun” and give us a table between the seats in Helen, the faithful Honda minivan.

David

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND

Part 1

Day 10-13, 2025

Miles: 2,589

Months ago, as we were planning this trip, David asked me if there was a special place I wanted to go. Without hesitation, I said “Theodore Roosevelt”. Around a decade ago, I read several books about our 26th President. Usually, when I read more about a famous person from the past, I am disappointed. Probably because I see them through the lens of the present. Teddy, however, did not disappoint. He was a product of his time, of course, and had his foibles but Teddy’s accomplishments as President and his exploits and personality even before that, made me want to see where he had had a life changing interlude before his Presidency. His descriptions of the land in North Dakota and the way it looked and sounded and smelled was beguiling. The changes this environment made in him after twin tragedies of losing his wife and mother in quick succession was fascinating. Teddy himself was fascinating. I had to see the land he loved best until the end of his life.

When last we posted, we were in Milwaukee, WI visiting friends. We drove through Minnesota rather quickly. It’s a beautiful state but still looked like our home back in Maryland. We wanted those western landscapes! We stopped for the night at a lovely spot called Lake Carlos State Park in Minnesota and headed out the next morning with our goal to arrive in Theodore Roosevelt the next evening.

TRNP is divided in sections – a North Unit, a South Unit and Elkhorn Ranch (Teddy’s ranch for a time).

The view from our campground in Little Missouri State Park outside the North Unit

We stayed at a Harvest Host site a while back and the host said “Wow you guys are really roughing it”. Our steak and asparagus dinner might prove otherwise.
Despite the trees in the background, most of TRNP is bright sunshine.

We took a hike in the North Unit, out on a trail into the stunning hills. We saw a very large prairie dog town. Acres of cute little furry friends going into and out of their burrows.

Turkey friend with fracking in the background.
There was a rattlesnake in the campground. No pic of him. This is, I think, a Bull Snake we saw sunning in the road.
Stopped for provisions at a tiny grocery store in Killdeer.
Obligatory entrance photo.
Prairie Dog friend.
Trailhead
Stay tuned for more Teddy tomorrow.

Jane

Milwaukee, WI

Days 8 & 9, May 25 & 26, 2025

Miles: 1,394

We visited more friends in Milwaukee, Wisconsin on Sunday. I had never met Thor and Cherylann. David knew Thor back in grade school days in Baltimore at St Mary. Thor married Cherylann after he moved to Wisconsin so neither of us had really met her. What a great couple and how close I feel to them already. Sometimes kindred spirits meet. ❤️

They’re so cute.

Lake Michigan is so BLUE. The Great Lakes is the largest system of freshwater lakes in the world. Some of them were quite polluted but now are cleaner. Hope they can stay that way.

Thor and David on a stop during a bike ride along the shoreline of Lake Michigan.

The van is working out beautifully. It’s so comfortable to sleep in and holds everything we need. It does feel like it’s overflowing at times until we wrestle it back into shape. Everything has to go in its place or it seems like the doors won’t close! David did such a great job getting it all built. A custom job for a great trip.

Now, on to the west!

Jane